Battery hold down part
#16
Chronic Tool Dropper
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^^^ That's the way it's supposed to work. The positive cover on the Group 48 battery is supposed to stay after installation. I sometimes punch a couple small holes in the cover, and thread a cable tie through and around the exiting cable to make sure it stays in place.
#17
Electron Wrangler
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However - you still need a hold down, expecially if you don't keep the spare bolted in - the battery box door latch is not very strong. In any case you don't want any fore/aft battery movement allowing stressing to the battery posts or cables.
In an emergency I think you could fabricate one from a piece of wood and a small angle bracket & bolt using the stock attachment point... better than nothing
Alan
In an emergency I think you could fabricate one from a piece of wood and a small angle bracket & bolt using the stock attachment point... better than nothing
Alan
#18
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Thread Starter
Yep, I've had a nice and fairly thick plastic cover over the hot post, it wasn't until recently that I started to have cut out issues and after going through everything in the garage I decided to pull the Sharkwoofer to get to the battery. It had worn down the plastic enough that it started to arc, then burn the plastic. Bad deal.
No idea why I've not had the hold down in there previously but I suppose we all over look something here and there.
No idea why I've not had the hold down in there previously but I suppose we all over look something here and there.
#19
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Double tap.
#22
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Thread Starter
Right now I've got similar to what Tony shows, I do want the factory tie down though and was surprised to find out it was NLA. Figures, just like the trans mounts when I needed those after giving mine away.
#24
Rennlist Member
The 78's have a separate battery box. I don't have a hold down bracket and I don't see one on the PET. There are thick rubber strips on top of the battery to hold it firm against the box cover from what I can tell.