Latch problems
#1
Latch problems
Hey everybody! I'm new to this forum because I recently purchased my dream car! A 1984 porsche 928 that needs a LOT of work! But my main problem I want to address is the rear latch won't keep the hatch closed. It's deffinately damaged but it seems like all the 928 latches have external keys and mine doesn't. If anybody could help me identify the latch/part number, I would greatly appreciate it!
Thank you in advance for the help!
Thank you in advance for the help!
#3
What do you mean you don't have "external keys"... Has someone been busy with bondo? is there a cover instead of a keyhole - or you just don't have the right key for it?
Mark is certainly right that you need a new hatch tonge - that one is shot.. he can likely provide a used one too...
What does the receiver side look like...?
Alan
Mark is certainly right that you need a new hatch tonge - that one is shot.. he can likely provide a used one too...
What does the receiver side look like...?
Alan
#6
It has all sorts of useful info, including a link to the PET catalog for part numbers and a list of the more popular and reputable vendors.
One of them is 928 International.
Run by Mark Anderson
Who responded to you in post #2.
A link to his site is in his sigline. Take a look at the site, then give him a call. Those guys know the car well enough that you can pretty much tell them that you need the "Hatch latch thingy" and they will be able to ask you the correct questions to get you the part(s) you need.
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#9
However - the upper latch tongue is supposed to work with a lock barrel that should stick through the keyhole in the hatch .
I am unaware of any 928 models delivered without a key locking hatch. Maybe someone has modified yours - seems very odd...
Early cars had no electric release motor - but seems all should have key locks.
The white part of your lock seems oversized and extremely strangely shaped - has someone modified it ?
Alan
I am unaware of any 928 models delivered without a key locking hatch. Maybe someone has modified yours - seems very odd...
Early cars had no electric release motor - but seems all should have key locks.
The white part of your lock seems oversized and extremely strangely shaped - has someone modified it ?
Alan
#10
Ok, I reread my post and I sound a bit like a jerk. My apologies. It just gets a bit repetitive to see people ask questions that are covered very clearly in the "Read This First" sticky.
Your back hatch should have a lock cylinder right in the middle, just under the spoiler. Look in the "Nice Butts" thread to see exactly where.
When I got mine, my lock cylinder didn't work. So I searched around a little bit (hint, hint) and found this thread:
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...larm-lock.html
It covers the hatch lock mechanism very well.
Your back hatch should have a lock cylinder right in the middle, just under the spoiler. Look in the "Nice Butts" thread to see exactly where.
When I got mine, my lock cylinder didn't work. So I searched around a little bit (hint, hint) and found this thread:
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...larm-lock.html
It covers the hatch lock mechanism very well.
#12
based on the gorilla grip on the hatch you also need new hatch shocks.
NOTE if the hood shocks are also bad then remove the hatch shocks,
For possible use on the hood.
NOTE if you can close the shock with one hand pressing it into the ground then they can be used for the hood .
NOTE the hatch shocks are about 100 # the hood are 35# so putting good hatch shocks on the hood can bend it
NOTE if the hood shocks are also bad then remove the hatch shocks,
For possible use on the hood.
NOTE if you can close the shock with one hand pressing it into the ground then they can be used for the hood .
NOTE the hatch shocks are about 100 # the hood are 35# so putting good hatch shocks on the hood can bend it
#14
Looks like a PO deleted the key for the rear hatch. The remote release is iffy at best, and generally don't work. If it where mine I would remove the upper latch and look into the hatch from the bottom and try to determine how they filled the hole. I think the best solution would be to reopen the hatch hole and install a replacement upper latch with the key access on the rear hatch. I would get a used non alarm latch and rekey it to match the existing key cut so you don't have to carry an extra key. You will likely need to replace the lower latch liner too.
#15
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You can see where there's a relief in the rear spoiler, centered bottom edge, where the loch cylinder used to live. I'm not sure how you'll open the hatch without that lock cylinder assembly, but others will undoubtedly chime in. There's an electric release motor, but you may not want to rely on that as your only rear access. For instance, replacing the latch and relying on that motor release gives you only one chance to get all the adjustments perfect. If the motor can't release the latch that first time, you are pretty much out of easy options for opening the hatch.
Your car is presenting a growing list of interesting challenges!
Your car is presenting a growing list of interesting challenges!