marine928

Does anyone have the procedure for replacing the rivets for bolts in the rear plate for a 1987 S4. After completing my extended TB/WP plus some service I noticed a rattle at the TC/Bell housing area.
Did the search read all the various possibilities and when all said and done KIILAV's test was positive.
Never had the rattle before and it appears to be an issue that presents itself when we raise our late model 928's off the ground for an extended time. Possibly if the rear wheels are removed there would be less stress, any thoughts?
I have tightened or checked all bolts, and shields. Nothing is touching, the TT and clamps were upgraded with Constantine's products. Rubber mallet produces no rattles anywhere else EXCEPT when the allen wrench is inserted in the allen bolt on the TC and struck per M. K's directions.
Rattle goes away when trans is engaged and returns in N or P and for a couple of seconds when shut down.
My Vin # is WPOJB0925HS861404 so I have to guess it is an early version that had rivets not bolts.

Thanks

Lon

Chalkboss

I think what would be good here Lon is if someone could post the TSB that Porsche issued. You and I have similar cars, issues, and repairs that were done.

marine928

Agreed, since it just started, is it something I have to deal with right away or can I enjoy driving my car a little?

jeff spahn

Hmmm. I am addressing this when we do my TT bearings and carrier bearings. Will be interesting to see what we find. I get it in park and neutral and also when driving at slow speeds when the car is cold. Not constant.

Can you please give me the procedure to put an allen key in and hit with mallet that you described?

Chalkboss

You need to pull the small round inspection cover and find the pinch clamp. Insert allen wrench into the bolt and rap with a rubber mallet.

jeff spahn

Ah. I will do that tonight and see what sounds emanate.

marine928

If you can reach the crank bolt rotate engine until the drain bolt in the bell housing (#5 allen head) is visible at 6 o'clock. Insert long portion of allen wrench into head making sure it is seated all the way. Holding it in place tap on the left or right side of L or T wrench with rubber mallet. Hit it pretty firmly. The TC will move and you will hear the rattle. If you cannot reach crank bolt then just tap the ignition like i did. Better if you have two people or like me you will be doing a lot of up and down.

Lon

jeff spahn

I just turn the engine by grabbing the flywheel and turning, much easier than all the up and down.

Bill Ball

TC flexplate rivet TSB:

killav

I have performed this repair on my car about 7 years ago now. It is pretty straight forward, once you get the splined drive shaft pressed out of the converter housing. There is a snap ring that needs to come out first.

Mark the flex plate in relation to the splined shaft/base so they can go back together the same way after you grind/drill all the rivets off. I bought the shortest, strongest metric bolts I could find. The trick is to have full thread engagement, without having the bolt stick up through the nut very far. I used very thin flat star washers and red lock tight on the bolts. I think I tightened mine a little more than the 23 ft/lbs listed above.

7 years later, I have not had the rattle return. Working just fine.

marine928

Thanks Bill!

marine928

Thats what we all needed thanks Mike and Bill.

Lon

Chalkboss

Perfect guys. Thanks again. I can't wait to get my damn garage built so I can get my lift in and tackle these bigger jobs. The noise is embarrassing to me.

RonCX

Does replacing the rivets require removing the rear axle and transmission?

Schocki

Yes and not to forget the WYAIT rule. It'll never be easier to check the reverse B3 clutch discs, replace the TQ bearings and to at least re-seal the transmission.
I've done it in 2015....