seat switch help (AGAIN-STILL)
09-13-2013, 10:07 PM
#16
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Wife recently diagnosed with pancreatic cancer...horrible prognosis. The car has been WAAAAAAY down my list of priorities. Did finally take 2 minutes to check seat issue. Per the help here (once again) followed the cable from backrest under the seat, unpluged the cable, pulled it out, hooked up 12v and recline adjustment works fine in both directions by switching polarity. One of the few positives lately. Wanted to get the car out as it was a gift from my wonderful wife 11 years ago.
Thanks again, guys
Thanks again, guys
09-13-2013, 11:18 PM
#17
Rennlist Member
I found that a new switch made my fiddly drivers seat work awesome again. It was only $45 or so. I suggest to buy one and swap it in, or have a local give you a hand on it!
09-14-2013, 12:10 AM
#18
Electron Wrangler
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
All the motors worlk by reversing polarity. The switches do this - each has power & ground supplied and 2 motor connections.
It is far easier just to take the seat out. I won't say its always easy to do that but once its out it will go back in easily, and be easy to remove again fif you ever need to.
Working on the seat while out is easy - in all respects.
There are quite a few things on a 928 that are a real PITA - but this actually isn't one of them... BTDT!
Alan
It is far easier just to take the seat out. I won't say its always easy to do that but once its out it will go back in easily, and be easy to remove again fif you ever need to.
Working on the seat while out is easy - in all respects.
There are quite a few things on a 928 that are a real PITA - but this actually isn't one of them... BTDT!
Alan
09-15-2013, 04:31 PM
#20
Nordschleife Master
I'm very sorry to hear about your wife. Pancreatic is one of the worst. Treatments have improved greatly in the past few years, so there is some hope.
The seats aren't that complicated. Just very difficult to work on in the car.
Taking them out is 6 bolts (one each side in front, 2 each in back). Run the seat all the way forward to access the back bolts, all the way back for the fronts. The bolts have backing plates, not nuts holding them in. The front plates are not held in place by anything and will drop under the seat rails if you don't hang on to them when pulling the bolts (a small pick, small long needle nose pliers or a magnet will let you retrieve it if you drop it) The rear plates are held in by the seat track. They can slide around but won't drop.
Using proper technique for removing allen head bolts is important. Clean out the hole (it accumulates a lot of crud), use a proper size wrench (5mm IIRC, but that could be wrong), tap the wrench into the hole to make sure it's seated well and turn slowly and gently. If it starts to slip, stop and start over.
Once the seats are out, the switches and wiring are pretty obvious. The main power plug has a removable cover and you can see what's up in there. As was said, one side (brown) is ground, the other side is hot. 2 pairs of plugs, one for each switch. You can attach 12v power to the pins to test switch operation.
The forward/back traverse, up/down for front and up/down for back motors are under the front of the seat. The recline motor is buried in the seatback. There is a pair of wires going through a 2 pin plug powering that. There are a bunch of zip ties holding the wires to the seat. In my case, the zip ties were so tight, the wires underneath had broken. I patched the wires and the seatback worked.
I also had switch issues. I found this thread on fixing them:
https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...lace-them.html
Alan suggested replacing them rather than repairing them. Repair is a rather "fiddly" job. Getting the rockers to work properly is a trial and error job. Getting the springs and ***** to stay in place while reassembling the switch is an exercise in frustration. I have a bit of experience in scale modeling and in gunsmithing. So I can do "fiddly" little stuff like that.
It's doable, if you are careful and thorough. If you don't have the patience or practice or tools for the job (I have a selection of tiny pliers, screwdrivers and such, along with a large lighted magnifier), replacement is not a bad idea.
The seats aren't that complicated. Just very difficult to work on in the car.
Taking them out is 6 bolts (one each side in front, 2 each in back). Run the seat all the way forward to access the back bolts, all the way back for the fronts. The bolts have backing plates, not nuts holding them in. The front plates are not held in place by anything and will drop under the seat rails if you don't hang on to them when pulling the bolts (a small pick, small long needle nose pliers or a magnet will let you retrieve it if you drop it) The rear plates are held in by the seat track. They can slide around but won't drop.
Using proper technique for removing allen head bolts is important. Clean out the hole (it accumulates a lot of crud), use a proper size wrench (5mm IIRC, but that could be wrong), tap the wrench into the hole to make sure it's seated well and turn slowly and gently. If it starts to slip, stop and start over.
Once the seats are out, the switches and wiring are pretty obvious. The main power plug has a removable cover and you can see what's up in there. As was said, one side (brown) is ground, the other side is hot. 2 pairs of plugs, one for each switch. You can attach 12v power to the pins to test switch operation.
The forward/back traverse, up/down for front and up/down for back motors are under the front of the seat. The recline motor is buried in the seatback. There is a pair of wires going through a 2 pin plug powering that. There are a bunch of zip ties holding the wires to the seat. In my case, the zip ties were so tight, the wires underneath had broken. I patched the wires and the seatback worked.
I also had switch issues. I found this thread on fixing them:
https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...lace-them.html
Alan suggested replacing them rather than repairing them. Repair is a rather "fiddly" job. Getting the rockers to work properly is a trial and error job. Getting the springs and ***** to stay in place while reassembling the switch is an exercise in frustration. I have a bit of experience in scale modeling and in gunsmithing. So I can do "fiddly" little stuff like that.
It's doable, if you are careful and thorough. If you don't have the patience or practice or tools for the job (I have a selection of tiny pliers, screwdrivers and such, along with a large lighted magnifier), replacement is not a bad idea.