89 GT engine idle is low , how do I raise the idle
08-01-2013, 07:40 PM
#32
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Well I have a connection issue as the 87 harness had the rectangle pin connector and the 89 had the round diagnostic since I went with adding the 89 harness to the 87 CE panel,
I dont have either of these connectors
The rectangle connector went with the 87 engine and the round connector stayed in the 89 chassis CE panel.
Any suggestions are much appreciated
Richard thanks for chiming before and adding more info.
I will see if I can accomplish your suggestions,
do I make these connections with the connector connected to the computer and key on?
If connected to computer will this damage anything inside the computer?
I dont have either of these connectors
The rectangle connector went with the 87 engine and the round connector stayed in the 89 chassis CE panel.
Any suggestions are much appreciated
Richard thanks for chiming before and adding more info.
I will see if I can accomplish your suggestions,
do I make these connections with the connector connected to the computer and key on?
If connected to computer will this damage anything inside the computer?
Per the Porsche Test Plan for LH/EZK, you are to disconnect the harness plugs and turn the ignition off.
I have just disconnected the harness plugs without disconnecting the battery. However, the official procedure is to disconnect the battery ground strap first, then disconnect the harness plugs. Reconnect the ground strap, then test per the procedure. In the case of the IAC, jumper 21 & 17 first, then intermittently ground 33. The IAC should be clicking when you ground 33.
DO NOT TEST WITH THE HARNESS CONNECTED TO THE ECU's, it can destroy the circuit...
I would recommend putting in PEMS in the LH & EZK, then Sharktune to your heart's content, and you will have whatever idle and function you want with the LH/EZK. It is very easy to do once you connect to the ECU's with the ST.
Hope that helps,
08-02-2013, 12:42 AM
#33
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Thanks for the info Richard.
I am ordering a new set of chips from John Speake and will add more info as I have time
I am ordering a new set of chips from John Speake and will add more info as I have time
08-04-2013, 12:37 PM
#34
Team Owner
Thread Starter
I got a chance to work on the intake,
after doing the ICV test it does not click as it should, the wires only sparked when tested through the LH harness
To do this on the LH harness bridge 17 and 21, then by temporarily grounding pin 33 this will send power to the ICV .
Intake removal has begun and a new ICV will be installed as this one is frozen. I will take pictures of a failed S4 ICV valve
after doing the ICV test it does not click as it should, the wires only sparked when tested through the LH harness
To do this on the LH harness bridge 17 and 21, then by temporarily grounding pin 33 this will send power to the ICV .
Intake removal has begun and a new ICV will be installed as this one is frozen. I will take pictures of a failed S4 ICV valve
08-04-2013, 02:34 PM
#35
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Well I took apart the Frozen ICV and this is how it works,
it looks to be made so there are not any parts touching inside like the brushes that rubbed on the armatures of the earlier 85/86 versions.
It appears to made to work like 2 magnets repelling each other to generate its twisting ,
it also appears that if it should get wet then it can easily rust inside and thus freeze up like this unit did.
The setting tensioer spring is placed inside the white connector cover this will pretension the armature, and elex current will run the armature open.
So this unit appears to be a long life unit and if its kept dry and free of carbon then it should last indefinitely ,
That said there isnt any way to know if its corroded internally unless its cut open or holes are drilled in it.
I ordered a new part from Autozone and will see if its a Bosch part,
the part cost was 132.00 with free shipping to the house.
it looks to be made so there are not any parts touching inside like the brushes that rubbed on the armatures of the earlier 85/86 versions.
It appears to made to work like 2 magnets repelling each other to generate its twisting ,
it also appears that if it should get wet then it can easily rust inside and thus freeze up like this unit did.
The setting tensioer spring is placed inside the white connector cover this will pretension the armature, and elex current will run the armature open.
So this unit appears to be a long life unit and if its kept dry and free of carbon then it should last indefinitely ,
That said there isnt any way to know if its corroded internally unless its cut open or holes are drilled in it.
I ordered a new part from Autozone and will see if its a Bosch part,
the part cost was 132.00 with free shipping to the house.
08-04-2013, 04:42 PM
#37
Team Owner
Thread Starter
actually it cut in half rather easily took all of 5 mins to cut it apart, with a hacksaw
the big hassle was all the rusty crud I removed to take the pictures
the big hassle was all the rusty crud I removed to take the pictures
08-06-2013, 01:27 AM
#38
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I know it sounds silly but it has happend.
when i took my cluster apart to do the LED conversion and fix my PRND32 light issue, my tach needle didnt seat tight enough on the shaft during install.
It was fine for a while...then i blipped the throttle one day and my car settled into a 400 rpm idle.....it has now gotten worse. I cruise at 80 mph and 1100rpm! It has slipped some more. I have to pull it off, re "zero" it and "glue" it.
have you checked the idle via a different method....
Is it actually low?
especially if the needle has been removed at some point.
when i took my cluster apart to do the LED conversion and fix my PRND32 light issue, my tach needle didnt seat tight enough on the shaft during install.
It was fine for a while...then i blipped the throttle one day and my car settled into a 400 rpm idle.....it has now gotten worse. I cruise at 80 mph and 1100rpm! It has slipped some more. I have to pull it off, re "zero" it and "glue" it.
have you checked the idle via a different method....
Is it actually low?
especially if the needle has been removed at some point.
08-06-2013, 11:35 AM
#39
Team Owner
Thread Starter
idle is low as the engine wont run unless the pedal is pushed the ICV was stuck
the chips in the computers are going to get replaced as well then retesting will happen
the chips in the computers are going to get replaced as well then retesting will happen
Last edited by Mrmerlin; 08-09-2013 at 02:44 AM.
08-09-2013, 11:37 PM
#40
Team Owner
Thread Starter
OK got the new chips,
Thanks John for the fast service.
Azone for the new ICV 138.00 delivered,
and its a Bosch unit, a deal, it came with no box
Now for the code plug what has to happen to it??
Do I leave it alone?
do I swap out the one pin and make it look like the auto plug?
Do I cut the wire in the LH for the manual feed, that John was talking about?
please advise, be clear with your instructions,
I dont want to make any mistakes
Thanks John for the fast service.
Azone for the new ICV 138.00 delivered,
and its a Bosch unit, a deal, it came with no box
Now for the code plug what has to happen to it??
Do I leave it alone?
do I swap out the one pin and make it look like the auto plug?
Do I cut the wire in the LH for the manual feed, that John was talking about?
please advise, be clear with your instructions,
I dont want to make any mistakes
08-10-2013, 06:04 AM
#41
Rennlist Member
Stan, first of all try the GT chips and leave the code plug as for an auto. The idle speed will be 675 rather than the GT's 775rpm but with your new ISV it will work well enough for a first try.
You can experiment with lifting pin 3 of the code plug later.
You can experiment with lifting pin 3 of the code plug later.
08-27-2013, 10:59 PM
#42
Team Owner
Thread Starter
After installing the new GT chipset from John Speake and fitting a new ICV,
the engine started perfectly and ran at an idle of 1100 RPM for a few moments then settled down to 750RPM ,
The car drives great and the customer is happy thanks for everyone's help
the engine started perfectly and ran at an idle of 1100 RPM for a few moments then settled down to 750RPM ,
The car drives great and the customer is happy thanks for everyone's help
08-28-2013, 10:56 AM
#44
Rennlist Member
Stan.......late to this thread but do have input.
I tried GT chips in my S4 auto and the in gear idle with a/c on and large electrical load was extremely low.
With Johns input I refitted a stock S4 chip to the LH which gave the different ignition curve for the EZK using the GT chip while maintaining a strong idle.
Sounds as if your almost there
I tried GT chips in my S4 auto and the in gear idle with a/c on and large electrical load was extremely low.
With Johns input I refitted a stock S4 chip to the LH which gave the different ignition curve for the EZK using the GT chip while maintaining a strong idle.
Sounds as if your almost there