Another S4 returns from the dead: It started today for the first time in 3+ years!
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
Another S4 returns from the dead: It started today for the first time in 3+ years!
After nearly two months I am happy to report that my 1987 S4 rumbled to life again today, for the first time since 2010.
I acquired the car on a trailer back in early June, basically in "parts car" condition. It was missing the hood, front bumper cover, and left fender, and a GTS rear bumper cover was thrown in the hatch. The fuel injectors and air filter housing were present but removed, and water had gotten into the throttle/lower intake, as well as the timing belt area. The radiator was also MIA.
Over the last eight weeks, I have done the following to bring this beast back to life:
-Intake removal and refresh, including new idle control valve, throttle position switch, knock sensors, crankshaft position switch, and intake gaskets;
-All rubber fuel lines in engine bay replaced;
-Gates racing timing belt, PKensioner, Laso water pump, crank seal, air pump delete, oil pump seals and gear, Roger's cam gears, accessory belts, power steering reservoir and suction hose, voltage regulator, and accessory drive belts;
-Installed my brother's good '88 radiator, along with new thermostat, upper and lower radiator hoses, heater hose, expansion tank hose, and Zerex G-05 coolant;
-New Bosch plugs and Beru wires, plus key ignition/fuel system relays;
-Fuel pump and filter, drained tank;
-Removed a vintage Alpine alarm system and many pounds of wiring;
-Confirmed presence of LSD and renewed transaxle oil, replaced shifter coupling bushings.
Yesterday I discovered a seized fuel pump and replaced it today along with the filter. The car started and idled strongly, but I had to shut it off quickly as I noticed fuel streaming back by the fuel pump. The original hose from the tank to the pump did not like being disturbed, and now has a split. A replacement is already on the way. I did manage to notice that the oil pressure was 5 bar on the factory gauge. It sounded quite good for an engine that has not run in over three years. I am amazed that the MAF is not destroyed given the exposure to rain water it saw (we will see how it does under load though).
Thanks to all on this forum who have helped me get it to this point. I can't wait to drive it soon!
Eric
(Above is how it looked the day I got it)
I acquired the car on a trailer back in early June, basically in "parts car" condition. It was missing the hood, front bumper cover, and left fender, and a GTS rear bumper cover was thrown in the hatch. The fuel injectors and air filter housing were present but removed, and water had gotten into the throttle/lower intake, as well as the timing belt area. The radiator was also MIA.
Over the last eight weeks, I have done the following to bring this beast back to life:
-Intake removal and refresh, including new idle control valve, throttle position switch, knock sensors, crankshaft position switch, and intake gaskets;
-All rubber fuel lines in engine bay replaced;
-Gates racing timing belt, PKensioner, Laso water pump, crank seal, air pump delete, oil pump seals and gear, Roger's cam gears, accessory belts, power steering reservoir and suction hose, voltage regulator, and accessory drive belts;
-Installed my brother's good '88 radiator, along with new thermostat, upper and lower radiator hoses, heater hose, expansion tank hose, and Zerex G-05 coolant;
-New Bosch plugs and Beru wires, plus key ignition/fuel system relays;
-Fuel pump and filter, drained tank;
-Removed a vintage Alpine alarm system and many pounds of wiring;
-Confirmed presence of LSD and renewed transaxle oil, replaced shifter coupling bushings.
Yesterday I discovered a seized fuel pump and replaced it today along with the filter. The car started and idled strongly, but I had to shut it off quickly as I noticed fuel streaming back by the fuel pump. The original hose from the tank to the pump did not like being disturbed, and now has a split. A replacement is already on the way. I did manage to notice that the oil pressure was 5 bar on the factory gauge. It sounded quite good for an engine that has not run in over three years. I am amazed that the MAF is not destroyed given the exposure to rain water it saw (we will see how it does under load though).
Thanks to all on this forum who have helped me get it to this point. I can't wait to drive it soon!
Eric
(Above is how it looked the day I got it)
#3
Pro
Thread Starter
Indeed. I am a very optimistic person, but I was certain it was not going to start because of the MAF. Instead it fired right up strong and proud. I have put a lot of time and money into it and it was truly rewarding to hear it run for the first time.
#4
Nordschleife Master
Just wait until the inaugural drive.
#6
Rennlist Member
Congratualtions !
Even if he MAF had no output the car would start and idle in "limp home" mode..... if the car will easily pick up rpm above idle, then the MAF probably has survived.
Remove the MAF and look at the venturi assembly - if there's corrosion it will be where the air passes through past the hot wire. There's a steel ring that hold the hot wire, this will rust if much water has passed through there.
Even if he MAF had no output the car would start and idle in "limp home" mode..... if the car will easily pick up rpm above idle, then the MAF probably has survived.
Remove the MAF and look at the venturi assembly - if there's corrosion it will be where the air passes through past the hot wire. There's a steel ring that hold the hot wire, this will rust if much water has passed through there.
#7
Rennlist Member
Read through your list, you did a textbook revive on the old girl, nice job!
So many times we've seen the core structure and mechanics of neglected cars to be excellent, they just need refresh of the peripheral parts. Then they run solid, like monsters, for many more years. Sounds like you've got one!
Great save.
So many times we've seen the core structure and mechanics of neglected cars to be excellent, they just need refresh of the peripheral parts. Then they run solid, like monsters, for many more years. Sounds like you've got one!
Great save.
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#8
Pro
Thread Starter
Congratualtions !
Even if he MAF had no output the car would start and idle in "limp home" mode..... if the car will easily pick up rpm above idle, then the MAF probably has survived.
Remove the MAF and look at the venturi assembly - if there's corrosion it will be where the air passes through past the hot wire. There's a steel ring that hold the hot wire, this will rust if much water has passed through there.
Even if he MAF had no output the car would start and idle in "limp home" mode..... if the car will easily pick up rpm above idle, then the MAF probably has survived.
Remove the MAF and look at the venturi assembly - if there's corrosion it will be where the air passes through past the hot wire. There's a steel ring that hold the hot wire, this will rust if much water has passed through there.
I'll take a closer look at the MAF for the signs of corrosion you mentioned. I have a good amount of experience with LH systems due to my nearly 20 years working on Saabs...I have even more experience on Trionic though.
#9
Pro
Thread Starter
Read through your list, you did a textbook revive on the old girl, nice job!
So many times we've seen the core structure and mechanics of neglected cars to be excellent, they just need refresh of the peripheral parts. Then they run solid, like monsters, for many more years. Sounds like you've got one!
Great save.
So many times we've seen the core structure and mechanics of neglected cars to be excellent, they just need refresh of the peripheral parts. Then they run solid, like monsters, for many more years. Sounds like you've got one!
Great save.
#12
Rennlist Member
Great job! I aquired my $-4 18 months ago and am about 1 week away from my first real drive. Have completed just about everything on your list along with a few extras, motor mounts, shocks, torque tube and clamp refurbish using Constatines "super bearings and clamp" products.
Don't forget to check your FLEX plate for movement and check your transmission lines. Mine started leaking on the drive home after I purchased it. Thats when I knew to park it and not to drive until all original hoses had been replaced and other maint. items dealt with.
The wait will be WELL worth it.
Don't forget to check your FLEX plate for movement and check your transmission lines. Mine started leaking on the drive home after I purchased it. Thats when I knew to park it and not to drive until all original hoses had been replaced and other maint. items dealt with.
The wait will be WELL worth it.
#13
Pro
Thread Starter
Thanks guys. Marine...my car is a manual not auto...for some reason, the transmission in my '87 was originally in the PO's '88 (verified by VIN sticker on case)...can't wait to find out why that is...I'm sure it will be clear soon enough.
I need to do motor mounts, but I waited to make sure the car actually runs (and I wasn't going to have to pull the engine for some reason).
I need to do motor mounts, but I waited to make sure the car actually runs (and I wasn't going to have to pull the engine for some reason).
#14
Nordschleife Master
Just as a "for next time" tip..
Instead of starting to check for fuel leaks, just pull the fuel pump relay, and use the handy factory jumper in the adjacent relay slot to the right to bridge the fuel pump power (the handy jumper is the bridge for the kickdown relay.. so being a manual, your car has the bridge).
That way you can pressurise the system and check for leaks at all the hoses/unions without the car running.
Great you've got it running!
Instead of starting to check for fuel leaks, just pull the fuel pump relay, and use the handy factory jumper in the adjacent relay slot to the right to bridge the fuel pump power (the handy jumper is the bridge for the kickdown relay.. so being a manual, your car has the bridge).
That way you can pressurise the system and check for leaks at all the hoses/unions without the car running.
Great you've got it running!
#15
Pro
Thread Starter
Just as a "for next time" tip..
Instead of starting to check for fuel leaks, just pull the fuel pump relay, and use the handy factory jumper in the adjacent relay slot to the right to bridge the fuel pump power (the handy jumper is the bridge for the kickdown relay.. so being a manual, your car has the bridge).
That way you can pressurise the system and check for leaks at all the hoses/unions without the car running.
Great you've got it running!
Instead of starting to check for fuel leaks, just pull the fuel pump relay, and use the handy factory jumper in the adjacent relay slot to the right to bridge the fuel pump power (the handy jumper is the bridge for the kickdown relay.. so being a manual, your car has the bridge).
That way you can pressurise the system and check for leaks at all the hoses/unions without the car running.
Great you've got it running!