Courtshark

Sorry if this has been covered before, but my searches revealed a laundry list of different options, none of which directly answered this question.

This weekend I will be replacing my stock radiator and coolant expansion tank with aluminum units from 928 Motorsports. Please save your comments about the aluminum radiator for another thread! There are plenty of those!

Many DE/racers here have recommended using water wetter. I shouldn't have a sludge issue since a huge part of the coolant flow system is being replaced.

Since I plan to track the car as the primary use, with occasional street driving, which coolant should I use, and at what ratio with the water wetter. And I think Redline sells a coolant with the water wetter already in it. Anyone use that?

Thanks!

davek9

The "latest" flavor of coolant is Zerex G-05
I fill w/ distilled water, check for leaks, drain out two gallons and replace w/ water wetter and two gallons of coolant (not the 50/50 pictured in the link).

http://www.sears.com/zerex-zxg05ru1-...ype=SKIP_LEVEL

Courtshark

Thanks! I assume you use the entire bottle of water wetter?

IcemanG17

the single biggest issue is what is the absolute lowest temp your 928 will see when its parked.....then you can adjust your ratio based off that

On my street 928 I used 75% distilled water and 25% coolant, since it never saw anything under about 40F.....

On my racer I run 100% distilled water with
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produc...code=RDCBCN-EA

it works slightly better than water wetter.... I also have an aluminum radiator in my racer (unknown who makes it) with only a 16" puller fan.....runs nice and cool.....fan comes on with a switch automatically at 175F....I have raced up to 110F and it never overheats.....it barely got to the 2nd white line (195F) in that heat....

IcemanG17

One thing NOT to forget.....a very nice 928 stroker was destroyed when it was parked with just water in freezing temps.....got so cold it cracked the block!!!

Courtshark

Fair point; my garage is detached, and not climate controlled. Here in MD, in the winter, it can get well below freezing on occasion. For the most part, we're well above freezing, though.

IcemanG17

I would change twice per year.....once for winter "storage"...50/50 is fine..... Then I would drop to around 75% water for "summer" season

Carl Fausett

Yes, use the whole bottle of water wetter.

Iceman is correct - using more glycol to reach a freezing point you don't need will make the engine run hotter.

The engine will run coolest with pure water in it... and every bit of glycol you add lowers the freezing point but also reduces its cooling capabilities.

That said - remember that to run just pure water will also deny the aluminum of the anti-corrosive additives and the water pump lubricants that are found in the quality anti-freeze products. So having some anti-freeze, if only for the anti-corrosive and lubricating additives, is a good thing.

Water Wetter adds those properties to your coolant.

Works good - I use it in both my street 928 and my race 928.

Courtshark

OK, so 75% distilled water, and 25% Zerex G-05, and a full bottle of water wetter, for the hotter months, and 50/50 plus water wetter for the winter?

Carl Fausett

That'd be fine. You could even skip the Water Wetter in winter.

Anti-freeze if one of those things where some is good, but more isn't better. Some guys will run really high mixes of anti-freeze (good to -60 F) then they start complaining "she's running too hot!" Well...

Carl Fausett

Thought you might like these pictures.

This is what happens when 1) you don't run any anti-freeze at all (so you do not have the anti-corrosive features that the additives provide to protect the aluminum. Using regular tap water (with iron) and have a missing or bad engine ground strap accelerates the rate of corrosion greatly.

This was a 310 HP 16v Euro motor. We were not able to save these heads. They were too far gone.

Carl Fausett

Here's a different set of Euro heads that we were able to save.

All the corrosion has to be ground out, then the aluminum has to be put back where it was eroded, and the heads re-surfaced. A valve job is done at the same time, of course.

Courtshark

MjRocket

Lmfao..Funny **** Courtshark!!!

ramcram

You could run this waterless stuff, then you don't have to change it ever. If you do have to open up the system, save it and put it right back.
I run a 'local brew' of this type in my S/C 86 5.0L and it's great.

Evans High Performance Coolant combines the benefits of Evans NPG+ and NPGR. High Performance Coolant provides superior cooling protection for all gasoline and light duty diesel engines, including marine and light aircraft. In conditions ranging from -40˚ to 375˚ F; High Performance Coolant provides cooling protection through constant liquid coolant contact with engine metals. Eliminates water-causing corrosion, electrolysis and cavitation. One successful installation provides cooling protection for the life-time of the engine, reducing maintenance time and expense.