Hai gebissen

I now have the PKensioner bracket in hand, so I can finally install my new Gates racing belt. I am also replacing my cam gears, so I have a question in this area.

My crankshaft is still locked with the tool at 45 degrees BTDC. Before removing anything, I marked the existing cam gears with a Sharpie relative to the notches in the backing plate. I have since removed the worn cam gears and will be installing a new pair of Roger's gears.

Should I match up my new cam gears with the old, make matching marks on the new gears, and then bolt the new gears in place to allow tensioner and belt installation at the current 45 degree position?

I assume I can use the 32v'r tool (little bro has it) to make fine adjustments to the cam timing once the belt is properly installed and checked?

Any other words of advice at this point are appreciated.

Eric

Leon Speed

Yes that's fine. The rough alignment should be appr. 3.5 teeth clockwise from the large notch on the front of the cam gear. The use the 32Vt to do fine tuning.

Hai gebissen

Thanks, that does appear to be exactly the case.

Leon Speed

New cam gears, nice

Hai gebissen

Well, I got the PKensioner installed and the timing belt on...followed Ken's instructions to the letter...after removing the grenade pin on the tensioner, and rotating the pulley CCW lightly to pretension the belt, I found the piston extension to be 9mm. This is a new Gates racing belt.

I then installed the balancer and pulleys, and rotated the engine by hand to verify timing marks on the balancer and cam gears. They are good. I still measure the piston extension at 9mm.

Now I am supposed to pull the fuel pump fuse and crank the engine for a few seconds, and then wait 5 minutes and re-check the piston extension. Of course, normally this job is being done on a car that drove into the shop...I have never heard this car run, let alone turned the key or had a live battery in it!

Ken's manual says that after cranking the engine and waiting 5 minutes, with a new belt, extension must be >2mm and <7mm. Is it realistic to expect the extension to drop by a full 2mm? What if it is 8mm afterwards?

Another complication...this car had its heads replaced about 10 years ago, but less than 10K miles ago. They were used heads, and there is no indication of the heads being machined at that time...but they were used heads. I am thinking there is a good chance they were machined, which might explain why I am at the upper end of the extension range.

Since I am using the Gates belt, and it is new, do I really have to worry about reaching the 11mm max extension on the piston? Ken recommends drilling out the tensioner bolt holes if extension exceeds 9mm. What if I am at 8mm (or even still 9mm) with a new belt?

Mike B

I have no experience with the Gates Racing Belt but it's my understanding the stretch in the belt is nominal...almost non-existent. Given that I'm sure the PKensioner will do its job admirably.

I'm sure others with much more experience with the belt will chime in but I think you're OK.

Hai gebissen

Well, I put a new battery in it, checked everything I could, and turned the key...no crank.

I then spent four hours removing a circa 1987 Alpine alarm system, plus some crazy aftermarket power window system (not sure what this was for...car already has power windows of course).

This is all non-factory crap that I removed...probably took a tenth or two off my quarter mile time



Unfortunately, my interior now looks like this:



Even more unfortunately, the car still does not crank. I do not have power at the starter solenoid while cranking. The starter does turn the engine over when powered directly. So...off to the wiring diagrams for me.

I did check the tensioner piston extension after turning the engine over with the starter, and it still appears to be 9mm. Anybody else have an opinion about my tensioner extension?

Leon Speed

Some usual suspects to start your wiring search: the starter relay, switch it out for another 53 relay, and the 14 pin connector.

Not sure if a manual has a start lockout (clutch in or transmission in neutral).

No experience with the porkentensioner.

Hai gebissen

There are a couple of relays seemingly missing on the board...positions XV and XVIII are empty, but appear to have all the terminals like a relay should be there...directly beside and below the fuse tester...

Hai gebissen

My LH module has been repaired...anybody know this outfit?

Bill Ball

Since you have to undo the 14-pin connector as part of the TB job, I would look at that as a high likelihood. There is a yellow wire at pin 14 that trips the solenoid. Do you hear the starter relay click when you turn the key to the start position? If so, this would be further evidence in support of it being relayed to the 14-pin connector. If not, swap the relay.

Rob Edwards

Yep, that's Rich Andrade's outfit, in Arizona. Long time 928 owner and all around good egg.

Hai gebissen

Yes, relay in position IV clicks when key is turned to start position. However, there is nothing at the terminal for the yellow wire in the 14-pin connector when key is cranked.

Hai gebissen

That's not it. Relay XIV is the starter relay. Swapped with another 53 relay and voila...it cranks

Hai gebissen

Thanks Bill B. for having me look more closely at the 14 pin connector...the very edge of the terminal housing on one half is broken off (at the end with the yellow wire you referenced) so I will replace that.

So...back to the original issue...my PKensioner piston is still extended 9mm after turning over by hand and with the starter. Leave it alone? Modify the tensioner holes? Thanks for all the help.