Clutch not releasing
07-02-2013, 11:18 PM
#16
Former Sponsor
I believe Prestone DOT4 synthetic was used. Should I change it out for the ATE Super Blue fluid? BTW, it seems the reason the reverse was grinding was my son who is new to manuals was trying to shift into reverse after starting the engine almost immediately. If you wait two or three seconds after the start with the clutch depressed, the input shaft is completely stopped and shifts smoothly into reverse. The rest of the gears shift smoothly. We checked that the clutch fully releases and stops with the clutch pedal depressed in neutral in around 2 seconds, the pivot bushing, the clutch peal adjustment and both master, slave and all hoses are either brand new or less than 3 years/3000 miles. But I will change out the fluid if Prestone will be a problem.
Thanks!
Thanks!
That's the other thing about the early transmissions.....without a syncro to slow down the input shaft, reverse will grind if someone is "too quick" to attempt to put it into gear....especially with the 75/90 gear oil.
I told my son to simply engage one of the other gears (to stop the transmission) and then shift into reverse.
07-02-2013, 11:32 PM
#17
Banned
Thread Starter
Greg and all the other posters
Thanks for all the great advice and help. it saved me some very unnecessary work and cost. Now removing the interior for stereo and redyeing!
Thanks for all the great advice and help. it saved me some very unnecessary work and cost. Now removing the interior for stereo and redyeing!
07-02-2013, 11:47 PM
#18
Former Sponsor
Long term, you will get much better clutch operation, if you remove the piston out of the new master and shorten it, like Stan suggests. Re-bleed, when you are done.
You can remove the piston, from the inside of the car, with the master cylinder still in place.
Should take about an hour....all in.
You can remove the piston, from the inside of the car, with the master cylinder still in place.
Should take about an hour....all in.
