Gemballa Speedline 12x18 ET 28 + 11x18 ET 65
#1
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Gemballa Speedlines 12x18 ET 28 + 11x18 ET 65 on German Ebay.
http://www.ebay.de/itm/Gemballa-Spee...item43bd2759ee
http://www.ebay.de/itm/Gemballa-Spee...item43bd2759ee
#4
Drifting
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Sounds like Strosek fitment as per the pics on the ad. I could see 28mm on the rear with those flares and the front wouldn't work on a stock 928 either, look at the fenders...11" with a 65mm.
#5
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The front fitment will have the outer lip almost exactly two full inches outside of where the stock 7"-wide wheel lip sits. Do you have two inches of extra room there now?
On the rears, the outer lip will be almost exactly 3" outside the stock 8"-wide rear slots that came on my S4. Do you have the three extra inches of room between your stock wheels and the fender in the rear? It's way beyond just rolling the fender lip on my S4.
On the rears, the outer lip will be almost exactly 3" outside the stock 8"-wide rear slots that came on my S4. Do you have the three extra inches of room between your stock wheels and the fender in the rear? It's way beyond just rolling the fender lip on my S4.
#6
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I have these exact wheels on my GTS. They are awesome.
I am going to try and send the front wheels in and machine them to ET45 because it really doesn't handle very well with the ET65.
The rear wheels fit well with the stock GTS spacers removed, and an 18mm spacer added.
Here's a couple of pictures
I am going to try and send the front wheels in and machine them to ET45 because it really doesn't handle very well with the ET65.
The rear wheels fit well with the stock GTS spacers removed, and an 18mm spacer added.
Here's a couple of pictures
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#7
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Phil--
Handling is better with the larger negative offset. If you want to try to make them -45mm, just add a 20mm spacer. No machining needed.
Handling is better with the larger negative offset. If you want to try to make them -45mm, just add a 20mm spacer. No machining needed.
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#8
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I have these exact wheels on my GTS. They are awesome.
I am going to try and send the front wheels in and machine them to ET45 because it really doesn't handle very well with the ET65.
The rear wheels fit well with the stock GTS spacers removed, and an 18mm spacer added.
Here's a couple of pictures![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
I am going to try and send the front wheels in and machine them to ET45 because it really doesn't handle very well with the ET65.
The rear wheels fit well with the stock GTS spacers removed, and an 18mm spacer added.
Here's a couple of pictures
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Either you have not understood the original post or you are talking gobbledy gook here. A front wheel with a 65mm offset will handle better than just about any other offset all other things being equal. What exactly would you machine to convert the offset to 45mm from 65mm? To achieve what you specify you would have to fit spacers not remove material.
If you want to move the front wheels in that requires different widths for the half sections if you have a 3 piece wheel. You might get a 8 inch wheel with a 45 offset to fit bot nothing wider I suspect.
Suggest you re-read your post, let us know if it is correct, edit as necessary then we may be able to understand where you are coming from and advise
appropriately.
I doubt you would be able to machine anything off a wheel to modify the offset
Apologies if I have misunderstood anything- I am half asleep.
Regards
Fred
I
#9
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Phil's front wheels are the wrong ET, he has at present 45 ET and needs to go towards 65 ET. The car as it drives has very unpredictable handling and squirrels under braking even at low speed (nearly caught me out) He has now swapped them out for stock GTS wheels whilst he looks into correcting the offsets.
They are two or three piece ( can't remember which) so he should be able to split them and new rims for the alloy hub.
They are two or three piece ( can't remember which) so he should be able to split them and new rims for the alloy hub.
#10
Pro
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My apologies, I confused myself. Mark is right!
These are 2 piece rims and it looks like the inner lip can be machined. I need to investigate further by removing the tire and seeing if there is enough meat left to machine 20mm off.
These are 2 piece rims and it looks like the inner lip can be machined. I need to investigate further by removing the tire and seeing if there is enough meat left to machine 20mm off.
#11
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I think I can safely say therei s no way you will be able to machine 20mm off the inner hub. you do not need to dismantle the wheel, just take a look down the bolt hole and see how much meat there is between the nut seat face and the inner flange face. I can more or less guarantee there will only be a few mm there and that will be more or less it and even if you had enough meat in there to machine off the requisite amount you would then be faced wth the problem of clearance from the brake rotor assembly relative to the orbit swept by the inner face of the wheel spokes.
Now if you want to see what real 928 wheels look like you know where to come!
![hiha](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/roflmao.gif)
Regards
Fred [now wide awake]
#12
Pro
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Fred I took the rim apart (2 piece so tire is still inflated) and it is not like the 3 piece rims I have seen. On the outside of the rim there clearly is enough meat left to machine 20mm of material off. The bolts do not get tightened by nuts. The actual rim has tapped holes.
I'm not sure what the inside of the rim looks like though (the part that is under the tire) so depending on what's under there will decide whether or not it can be machined.
I'm on holiday at the moment for another week and a half. I will take some pictures when I get back to explain what I mean
I'll probably have the tire off by then and will have more answers ![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Cheers!
I'm not sure what the inside of the rim looks like though (the part that is under the tire) so depending on what's under there will decide whether or not it can be machined.
I'm on holiday at the moment for another week and a half. I will take some pictures when I get back to explain what I mean
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Cheers!
Phil,
I think I can safely say therei s no way you will be able to machine 20mm off the inner hub. you do not need to dismantle the wheel, just take a look down the bolt hole and see how much meat there is between the nut seat face and the inner flange face. I can more or less guarantee there will only be a few mm there and that will be more or less it and even if you had enough meat in there to machine off the requisite amount you would then be faced wth the problem of clearance from the brake rotor assembly relative to the orbit swept by the inner face of the wheel spokes.
Now if you want to see what real 928 wheels look like you know where to come!![hiha](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/roflmao.gif)
Regards
Fred [now wide awake]
I think I can safely say therei s no way you will be able to machine 20mm off the inner hub. you do not need to dismantle the wheel, just take a look down the bolt hole and see how much meat there is between the nut seat face and the inner flange face. I can more or less guarantee there will only be a few mm there and that will be more or less it and even if you had enough meat in there to machine off the requisite amount you would then be faced wth the problem of clearance from the brake rotor assembly relative to the orbit swept by the inner face of the wheel spokes.
Now if you want to see what real 928 wheels look like you know where to come!
![hiha](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/roflmao.gif)
Regards
Fred [now wide awake]
#13
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Fred I took the rim apart (2 piece so tire is still inflated) and it is not like the 3 piece rims I have seen. On the outside of the rim there clearly is enough meat left to machine 20mm of material off. The bolts do not get tightened by nuts. The actual rim has tapped holes.
I'm not sure what the inside of the rim looks like though (the part that is under the tire) so depending on what's under there will decide whether or not it can be machined.
I'm on holiday at the moment for another week and a half. I will take some pictures when I get back to explain what I mean
I'll probably have the tire off by then and will have more answers ![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Cheers!
I'm not sure what the inside of the rim looks like though (the part that is under the tire) so depending on what's under there will decide whether or not it can be machined.
I'm on holiday at the moment for another week and a half. I will take some pictures when I get back to explain what I mean
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Cheers!
To get the correct offset when you have an ET45 you have to push the centre line of the rim inwards relative to the mating face on the mounting hub. To do this you have to either remove material from the hub or add offset at the rim. Thus machining anything at the rim sounds counter intuitive.
On my front wheels the outboard section is 1.5 inches and the inboard rim is 8 inches. Mounted on my centre hub gives an offset of 68mm [perfect]. Theoretically I could fit [if they made them] 1 inch and 8.5 inch sections and that would give an offset of approx 80mm with the same 9.5 inch width.
My rear wheels have a 2 inch outer section and an 8 inch inner rim to give a 10 inch wheel with 60mm offset. That is how it works.
Have a good hol and look forward to seeing what it is you are visualiing in due course.
Regards
Fred
#15
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Taking any wheel and shaving the back is not going to work unless you have big center caps that cover the lug holes so you can fill and redrill to create thicker lug bolt backing AND you need to make sure that you have caliper clearance when you are done
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