Right- I was thinking radially, when I should have been thinking longitudinally. Axially, maybe I should have been thinking more radically, and less linearly...

 

Any picture of the stuck bearing race?

 

thx Hilton....I need a bearing packer and installer so shall pick one of these up also.

Here's a pic of the frozen brg:

 

Try to remove the bearing race and hope there isnt any damage,
OTHERWISE
I would replace the spindle,
its sort of a lotta work but going this route should prevent future failures,

It appears the inner race got very hot and I will bet there is serious damage under the bearing.
Also the outer bearing surface may also be damaged but a new bearing will tell you how much

 

Following on Stan's comments, failure often includes the inner cup section spinning on the spindle, ultimately friction-welding itself. You may want to pull the brake dust shield off to get a better angle on the race for removal. With a sacrificial chisel, ding the race in three places around, radially facing inward. This will help distort the race a little and maybe grow it slightly. Then heat the bearing race quickly (MAPP torch or better) and use that same chisel to drive the race off before the heat migrates to the spindle enough to grow.

In my experience, once the bearing is stuck on that tight, the spindle is not reusable without some work. On rare to unobtanium spindles, I've had them welded, heat treated and reground. Fortunately the 928 spindles are still relatively common pieces, so finding a good used one is a phone-call to Mark or Tom effort.

 

thx Stan/Bob.........I'm going to try a bearing separator and post results.

 

Well Ive applied heat, lube, brass punch and cold chisel and the bearing seperator......im not winning

 

Not good news. If it's that solidly welded to the spindle, it's time for another spindle anyway. I've seen them very blued from all the heat generated as a bearing spins and welds itself to the spindle. Can't trust it after it's lost its temper and all.

 

Im searching the usual sites for a steering knuckle/spindle drivers side for my 93 GTS........appreciate any direction.

 

I deal with bearings like that every day . Take a small grinder 4 1/2 or 5 " , using a thin cutting wheel . Very carefully cut a grove , at 45 deg or greater in the remains of the bearing . You don't need to cut right through , DO NOT cut where the seal rides or the spindle is done . Take a chisel and put in in the grove , a couple of light hits and the bearing will crack . then clean up the spindle with emery cloth . Your bearing failure looks water related . ( I own Canada's largest boat trailer manufacturing Co )

 

I've got a better way of removing this.
Take a welder (TIG preferred, MIG OK too), and weld around the race, turn upside down and it will nearly fall right off.

Though, that said, with the heat needed to do that, I would not reuse that spindle.

 

I would recommend the same thing, use a Dremel and carefully cut a grove and split the inner race open. It will come right off.
In my opinion the seal behind the bearing failed and let water and dirt enter into the spindle.
Before you replace the complete spindle, take the old inner race of clean everything and see if the spindle needs to be replaced.
This will also allow you to see if the inner race is really "welded" to the spindle. What prevents your puller to work is dirt in combination with surface corrosion.

 

Malcolm,

I cannot see if the inner bearing ring has welded to the the stub axle as I cannot see any blue colour from the over heating?

Any way I have used the following technique to realign a crankshaft crank web and a 500mm bottom end journal of a marine diesel engine that had slipped due to hydraulic shock from water leaking into the combustion chamber. It has slipped and re-gripped with a 9.5mm out out of alignment.

I re-alligned the journal within the crank by using dry ice and heat to get clearance by differential cooling and heating.

The method I used should work for your before you resort to cutting the bearing inner casing from the axle or start using a tyre rod removal tool and a hammer.

Build a cofferdam around the stub axle. I would suggest that you use an old steel can from a can of fruit etc., that has an outside diameter slightly smaller than the inside diameter of the split collet of the puller. That is so the puller can be put in place when the stub axle has been sub-cooled. I suggest that you have some insulation on the outside diameter of the can as it will get extremely cold.

Cut a hole in the bottom of the can equal to the outside diameter of the stub axle adjacent to the inner bearing housing. It does not have to be an exact matching fit, as long as it retains the dry ice. You will also need an end cover so that the dry ice does not fall out and the can remains in axial alignment.

Pack the can with dry ice and leave it to sub-cool the stub axle.

Fit the bearing puller you have and prepare to pull the inner bearing housing from the stub.

Apply heat using a small propane torch to apply heat around the circumference of the inner bear ring and then commence the removal procedure again. I would suggest that you apply torque to the puller bolt prior to heating. There should be enough differential expansion the release the inner bearing ring, so it should start to move.

Best of luck.

 

Besides the usual reputable CA sources there is apparently a Porsche wrecker in/near Calgary. I have no experience with them but they may have it and they're probably the closest. I'm guessing the spindles are the same for MY 87-95?

http://calgary.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehi...AdIdZ443324137

 

Welding is not a good plan , cut it and wack it . We just did 3 spindles this morning . It should take 5-10 minutes .The bearing is high carbon steel , makes it quite brittle . And it is slightly friction welded to the spindle . clean up the spindle and fit a new bearing . The races in the hub also need to be replaced , just pound them out from the back side . But before you do that check the new seal fits in the hub , the hub could be damaged .The seal area on the spindle is the most critical , make sure its perfect or this will happen again .