Randy V

One of the spade connections on the climate control blower fuse (30A) (Fuse #25 I think from memory) is burnt, resulting in intermittent fan operation.

I've tried cleaning it from the front side with no big improvement, so now I need to get at it from the back side to possibly grind/reshape it or replace it.

Any tricks involved in removing the fuse spade holder?

ammonman

This is best done with the whole CE panel removed from the car. The wire connections must be unplugged from the back and the 5 section fuse holder pushed through from behind IIRC and removed from the panel. Once the section is out you can open it and clean/re-tension the individual buss bar style conductors. The internals of each 5 fuse section can be completely different so pay attention to the arrangement of the internal conductors. If the bar(s) are burnt they may have lost their spring temper and not grip the fuse spade tight no matter what you do. If you need parts let me know as I bought a used CE for cheap to have spare parts.

Mike

Randy V

Thanks for the tips, but ain't no way I'm pulling the whole panel out of the car.

Plan is to unbolt the panel from the firewall and fold the panel downward to get access to the back of the row of fuses.

Thanks for the parts offer - I'm hoping it won't need replaced, but I'll know more when I get back there.

Seein' as it was near 100 inland today, I need to get this fixed tonight.

Probably a good ides to disconnect the battery before I get to fiddlin' in there.

Wish me luck!

Alan

Randy - do take it out - you will have no success (without damaging the fuse block) with it still in the car. You cannot connect the bottom connectors wrongly (they just won't fit).

its tricky to get the 5 fuse block out of the panel - without damage. You will need spare parts from a donor panel - your current terminal will not be recoverable. You also MUST look inside the blocks to verify they are configured the same - from different years they will be different...

This may help https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...eferrerid=6055 you can see he clips that hold it in - you need flat bladed tools to remove these...

Alan

Randy V

That's where I'm stuck - at removing the spade connection from the block.

I guess I'll pull the whole panel at this point.

Randy V

This is fuse block 17 - 20.

20 is the burned one.

Your link did help me visualize how the block is set in there.

SeanR

You should be able to pull the wires off the back of the fuse block and put an inline one in. Fold the panel over so you can see what you are grabbing. Be sure to heat shrink up the ends so no wire is exposed.

Alan

I wouldn't do that as a permanent solution - but it would be a good interim to keep you cool while you wait for parts and a cool day

Alan

Kevin in Atlanta

I have a CE for a 94 GTS I don't need.

Randy V

I was able to get to what I needed by folding the CE panel down - after removing the EZK control module and disconnecting the main power supply leads.

I ended up pulling the plastic front of the fuse block off with the help of Alan's pics and was able to run an emery board between the fuse holder arms to get to bare metal, rinsed with a spray of contact cleaner and squeezed the arms together for a tight grip on the fuse.

I'm thinking I may still want to replace that fuse block for a more permanent solution - PM sent, thanks.

Randy V

Well the victory was short lived.

I'm thinking it's more than the blower fuse holder.

The fan will run for a short period with the AC on or off, then stops blowing. The fuse was not melting, but there are obvious signs of high resistance overheating on one spade connection.

With the AC switched on and the rear fan running there is no cold air from the rear, nor any cold air 'draft' from the front.

Is there a relay associated with this system that can be the root cause?

Alan

Blower relay

Alan

Randy V

That sounds like the problem based on the symptoms.

Looks like relay type 141.951.253.B

Randy V

I replaced that relay with a new one, yet the problem persists.

There is another fuse that provides some type of circuit protection to the system.

It is fuse #37 - a 7.5 amp fuse marked as Air Conditioning System in the chart.

When that fuse is pulled, the blower ceases to function.

Not sure what it's function is but it seems that both fuse #20 (Fresh Air Blower) and # 37 work in concert somehow.

Randy V

After cleaning fuse holder #37, I still experienced intermittent fresh air blower operation - dang it!

While wiggling other fuses and relays, the blower started again after pressing on relay X - identified on the chart as Ignition Relay - X, a common 141.951.253.B relay.

So I replaced that relay with a new one and the blower and AC have been performing correctly since.

Any ideas as to why that relay would cause this problem?