AirtekHVAC

Well, ordered some new stainless brake lines, so going to be tackling this soon. Seems simple enough...any special tools needed? Any tips, tricks or warnings? Going to do the wheels, clutch line, and blue hose at the same time...a little concerned at getting to the blue hose....

Planing on reverse bleeding once its all back together....anyone tried it.?

SeanR

You will be fine, take your time and get everything attached right and then bleed it out. If you pressure bleed it all with something like a Motiv Power bleeder you will be good.

dr bob

As you disconnect each hose from the steel line, you need to keep the line from draining down. If left open, gravity will cause all the fluid in the system to drain. I used sections of vacuum hose and some hemostat clamps. Slide the vacuum hose over the flared end of the tubing once the original brake hose is removed. Clamp the hose, and you'll be OK. Avoiding having to refill an empty system will save you hours of bleeding frustration.

928BC

Turn the hoses off the hardlines. There is a good chance you will twist the hard lines if you try and turn the fittings on them.

Avar928

You can use the bleeder caps to plug the hard line hose once the brake line is off. I did that for the rears and it worked fine.

Not sure if your lines are the same as my early '86 but it was a PITA to disconnect the brake line from the hard line in the rears. I used pliers to bend the bracket it was on so I could get a 17mm on the brake line then unscrewed the 2mm fitting of the hard line.

There's a metal clip holding the brake line to the bracket. Get a large flat head screw driver and pry that PITA out first before you unscrew anything. Don't do it afterwards.

brianrheffron

Remove the fluid reservoir cap and replace with similar one but without a vent. I sourced a VW one (can't remember which model) from a breakers yard and plugged the vent with hot melt glue. If air can't get into the system at the top the fluid won't run out, or very little anyway. This goes a long way to keeping air out of the brake system when you open it up at any point. I've used this method for years and it works pretty well.

Kevin in Atlanta

Not sure about your brake lines, but on my S4 the mounting hole is 'D' shaped and if your SS lines connector is not you will not be able to use the same mountings. My PO used cable ties. I routed them properly improvised a clip to lock them in place.

Hope you are luckier than me.

MFranke

Soak in PB blaster.

Get all tools assembled and new line ready. The new SS line may require a different size wrench than the old line you are removing. Also observe the orientation and curve of the old line so you can plan to orient the new one the same way.

Make sure the MC tank cap is tight to reduce fluid loss rate. Break the caliper banjo bolt loose but keep it snug so it doesn't leak. Then go the the flare nut end. Use a flare wrench on the flare nut and counter hold the line nut. If it is stuck, be patient - apply heat with an iron and more PB Blaster. Use a firm squeeze on the wrenches. Once it breaks don't let it twist far - wiggle it back and forth a bit to allow the oil to further penetrate the threads. Tap the lock tab a bit then pull the lock tab with some sturdy vice pliers. Clean the area. Then see if you can easily unscrew the flare nut. Watch carefully to see if the hard line is twisting. If the flare nut is resistant or stuck to the line you may want to get some pruning shears to cut the rubber hose and unscrew the hose end.

If you got the SS lines from Roger they will fit thru the 'D'. They also have an end that turns so you can tighten the line to the flare nut even if the flare nut is still frozen on the brake line.

Get the new line on in a timely fashion and don't let the fluid run down. Top off if needed.
Unless you had let the MC tank run real low, I'd just try to bleed normally before going to the fancier methods.

Mrmerlin

FWIW to slow the leakage rate in the MC when removing the lines,
get a piece of saran wrap and remove the cap,
double layer the wrap over the inlet then install the cap.

This create a suction in the reservoir so to slow the rate that fluid will run out

kawi825

Ron, I did the clutch hydraulics on my 78. It was rough, but loosening the brake booster allowed me to install the new master cylinder without breaking all my fingers.I tried for hours before loosening it and would not recommend it.. Motive bleeder worked awesome. I also had to go down and pump the slave cylinder by hand a few times to get the clutch to, as there was a bubble trapped. After this,clutch has been great. I used Valvoline for 3/4 semi synthetic fluid. Search my posts for the great help I got from these guys. Our cars should be the same. May the Schwartz be with you..

dr bob

I commented on this in the 'did this today' thread, but will repeat here that you MUST replace that little c-clip with the one that fits in the groove in the hose part, and secures the hose firmly to the bracket. Failure mode for your way is due to vibration/flexing/wear of the metal line, and failure is catastrophic when you run out of brake fluid.

The hole in the bracket is indeed D-shaped to 'key' the original hose end to keep it from turning in the bracket. When installing the Goodridge hoses, you'll need to use a round file to open the D into an O so the round hose end can fit through. A puff of paint where you've filed will keep the corrosion devils at bay too.

Kevin in Atlanta

OK I can do that.

I must add that this is not the first time I have seen this. I am pretty sure the same creativity was found my 93 GTS. So, I would hazard a guess that there are a lot more cases out there.

GregBBRD

This job looks so simple and turns to crap, so quickly.

Kevin in Atlanta

Well, I never have been a strong believer in replacing the stock brake lines with SS. But all my PO's believed otherwise. To make matters worse they also believed all SS lines are created equal.

WallyP

This is one job where Harbor Freight wrenches will not do the job! Cheap flare wrenches will round the flare nuts in a heartbeat. Craftsman flare wrenches are really marginal - the difference in Proto, Snap-On, Williams, etc. professional flare wrenches is amazing.