Kevin in Atlanta

As I plumbed up the lower manifold while I waited on my refurbished injectors I began to wonder if the entire intake, injectors and rail could be bench assembled and dropped in as a single assembly.

Anybody ever done it? I looked and it seemed I could get to the nuts to torque them with a universal joint.

Kiln_Red

I have had the best luck by fully assembling the intake out of the car. Hoses, clamps ready to go, the works. I then install the intake back into the car takng my time to get every vac hose in its correct position and all plugs reconnected. After that is done and the injector seals and pintle caps are replaced, I reinstall the injectors into the intake, mount the rails, plug in injectors, and finally zip tie the injector wires back to the rails. All in that order.

Leon Speed

Don't think it can be done. You will need to align to the fuel dampners/regulator, carefully seat the injector o-rings and shimmy the intake to get the connectors on the idle regulator, MAF and other sensors, plug in the vac lines, etc. With the fuel rails assembled first you will need to align all that stuff at the same time. Besides I don't see the advantage of assembling the fuel rails to the intake first.

69gaugeman

I think you are wrong. I just did exactly this on my 90 GT. One assembly off then back on. Now I am doing it in the car. Easy to do. Not disconnecting hardly anything on the intake (electrically). Just going to suspend it by rope above the engine with the wiring harness still left on.

Getting a couple of the nuts was a challenge, but use a universal socket (socket with universal joint built in). I found using one of the parts grabbers that have a plunger and bent arms that come out, were magic to put the washers and nuts on. I then used my universal socket to tighten down the nuts.

Mrmerlin

I would put the whole intake together except for the injectors and fuel rails.

I use a small piece of wood with a string tied to it to place in the V ,
then place the intake on the small piece of wood.
NOTE the wood pad makes routing the lines a bit easier as well as connecting the IAC connector.

Once you have the lines and hoses routed to the correct positions and the IAC connector installed,
then remove the wood and lower the intake to the heads.

Once this is done then you can fit the intake bolts.
NOTE be careful at the Right Front seating area,

as if the intake is hitting the water bridge it may not fully seat,
and thus cause an intake leak.

Once the intake bolts are installed,
then with some Dow Corning 111,
lube the injector O rings top and bottom,
and carefully place them into the fuel rail,
then install the retaining clips.

Use a dab of anti seize on the fuel rail B nuts

Then fit the injectors to the manifold and secure them.

Kevin in Atlanta

Here are a couple of pictures of my bench assembly progress. The third picture shows the flappy pod and the all important stop nut. That nut is very important and I learned why. Without it the flappy can close and jam closed. If you set the stop not to just before it jams the flappy works flawlessly. There are actually ridges inside he manifold that I presume were from the flappy.

Note: when I pulled my intake there was not stop nut and the flappy was disconnected. I believe that was because the flappy was jammed shut and over time the flappy worked its way off the ball.

And also in that last picture if you look i the upper left corner you see the less than perfect casting from Porsche. I was horrified when I saw it. I was sure this could not be how it was from the factory. It was. :-(

PHIL928

isn't it difficult to get the intake nuts on with the fuel rails in the way?

Kevin in Atlanta

That is what we will find out. I like a challenge.

jcorenman

I missed this thread the first time around... I just did this job with injectors and rails pre-assembled, and I have to agree with Stan et al that getting the intake in place and then doing injectors and rails is the better way to go.

Access to the intake nuts was a minor issue, but with a small magnet and a 1/4-drive u-jointed 13mm that all worked. Where I ran into problems, and had to partially disassemble things, was getting the two airbox mounting brackets back in place at the rear of the engine. They go over the intake bolts and under the fuel-damper bolts, which was a puzzle that I could only solve by bolting down the intake, then lifting the fuel-rail and injectors, loosely fitting the damper to rail, fitting the airbox brackets and then lowering the rail (and injectors) into position, and then finally tightening the damper mount and the fuel connection to the rail.

FYI there is also a wire harness that runs along the outside of the rails, which I think the insulation shown above will interfere with.

BC

I don't understand the reasoning to do so unless one has no first hand knowledge of work that's harder because you were trying to make it easy.

69gaugeman

First hand knowledge in my case proved that doing it as an assembly is faster. Also less chance of damaging an already delicate wiring harness. It was not hard at all.

Kevin in Atlanta

Adding a couple of pictures of the lower intake manifold.

I added a couple of hose clamps the where the 'Y' hoses exit the 'U' t the MAF. Others have used sealants. I chose a different way.

Also you will note I capped the port that goes to the air diverter valve. I deleted the air pump with the installation of the Porkentioner. So no need for the vacuum line.

BC

Faster? Is that your number one goal?

Hilton

That looks like the fuel rail insulation I posted about before.. if its closed-cell neoprene, then you can ditch the zip-ties and just use superglue to weld it shut at the join (superglue will break down the rubber and create a weld - you'll get a hard ridge where the two sides join).

I can't see what time is saved by doing it that way - putting the fuel rails in and bolting them to the intake is no different whether the intake is on or off the car, and you're just impeding access to other bits by doing it off the car, like the intake bolts. Plus it'll be harder to make sure the intake gaskets are centered over the ports (there's a little slop).

FYI, the fuel rails can be removed trivially (few minutes work) without removing the intake, so its not like this needs to be a single assembly.