Mongo's "First Time" - Timing Belt/Water Pump Thread
#166
Under the Lift
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Sure you can't get a small Vice-Grip on that stripped bolt? Once broken loose just about anything should spin it out. There are probably 50 other ways to get that bolt out that would not require the gear and backing plate removal, but if you have the timing belt stripped off already, that would be easy.
That engine bracket only has one bolt, I believe. A 13mm GearWrench on it from above with some effort should get it loose.
That engine bracket only has one bolt, I believe. A 13mm GearWrench on it from above with some effort should get it loose.
#168
Fleet of Foot
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The flywheel lock is not absolutely necessary to remove the TB if you set the crank to 45 BTDC. Just set it there, remove the belt and lock the flywheel once the lock arrives. It's not as if the crank will spin wildly on its own once free of the constraints of the belt.
#169
Official Bay Area Patriot
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Stripped the bolt for the engine lift bracket on the driver side. I cannot get this cam cover off for the life of me.
#170
Chronic Tool Dropper
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Rounded the bolt head? Ouch. Find a six-point socket and a long flex-head extension so you can reach that bolt from underneath.
#172
Captain Obvious
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#173
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Pics of what's under my driver side. I have a lot of silicone on the sides of the head and some flakes of paint fell into the head as I pulled the valve cover off. The top pad on the chain tensioner BARELY has wear on it. The bottom side of the driver tensioner is the piston side. I will pull the tensioner and inspect the pad, and replace accordingly.
EDIT: By the way, I checked the rear plugs at the back of the head. They have not fallen out yet and look like they have been serviced before. There's tons of silicone on them. I will snap a pic during lunch and upload it to this post.
EDIT: By the way, I checked the rear plugs at the back of the head. They have not fallen out yet and look like they have been serviced before. There's tons of silicone on them. I will snap a pic during lunch and upload it to this post.
#174
What you see there folks, is a perfect example of what NOT to do when you do valve cover gaskets.
#175
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Yep. I have some work to do when it comes to stripping that 'silly-cone' off the damn head thanks to some half-*** hack.
#176
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Quick question - there's a fuel line that runs across the passenger valve cover with a small rubber section that is U-shaped. I have heard this is a high pressure line that is one of the more volatile ones for burning 928s down once they get old. The outer sheething on my hose is fine, but who knows that it looks like underneath it. Should I change this rubber section with one of Roger's EFI hose kits?
#177
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Should I change this rubber section with one of Roger's EFI hose kits?
If you're going to do this, now is a good time because R&Ring the fuel inlet hose requires removing the thermostat cover to get the hardline underneath it.
#178
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As much as I love Greg's hoses, they are little on the pricy side for me. I really only need one repair right now. My U-Shaped hose in the rear of the motor has been replaced as well as the front hose that runs to the dampener. These are factory replacements.
My biggest concern was buying the EFI hose and clamps, doing the feed hose by the passenger valve cover and it bursting on me because of just clamping the hose rather than a good, solid crimp.
If anyone did Roger's kit to replace this hose, please share your thoughts.
My biggest concern was buying the EFI hose and clamps, doing the feed hose by the passenger valve cover and it bursting on me because of just clamping the hose rather than a good, solid crimp.
If anyone did Roger's kit to replace this hose, please share your thoughts.
#179
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My biggest concern was buying the EFI hose and clamps, doing the feed hose by the passenger valve cover and it bursting on me because of just clamping the hose rather than a good, solid crimp
Er, that's exactly what you'd be doing with the EFI hose and clamps. It is certainly the cost effective option and it worked fine for me for 5 years, probably would have been fine for several more.
If you really want to economize, I have the 5-year old hose I pulled off the GT just before I sold it....
#180
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I installed Rogers hose a few years ago and had to get it off for a top-end refresh last year. After removing the clamps it was not possible to pull the hose off the barbs, had to cut it off carefully. I had no concerns using the kit again. Each on his own responsibility of course and the are many threads here to read with pro's and cons.