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No Start 87 Auto.steading clicking noise under intake

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Old 04-04-2013, 01:49 PM
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John Speake
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Louie gives a 3 year warranty....
Old 04-04-2013, 02:18 PM
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elgreco
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Originally Posted by John Speake
Louie gives a 3 year warranty....
Old 04-04-2013, 02:26 PM
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hinchcliffe
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Wow, when i contacted you guys in December it was two year, too bad for me i guess.
Old 04-04-2013, 04:29 PM
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John Speake
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It's been three years for a long time. In practice I will honour the warranty after that time if it a genuine failure due to my work. (very rare)


Originally Posted by hinchcliffe
Wow, when i contacted you guys in December it was two year, too bad for me i guess.
Old 04-04-2013, 05:05 PM
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waveflux
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Try Swapping the horn relay with the EZK relay (The one with the fuse tester on top) then check the screws that bolt the CE panel to the car. All kinds
of ground gremlins can be fixed at that point.
Old 04-04-2013, 07:48 PM
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firemn131
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haha, yup definitely try easy first. Battery. then maybe a tester LH-ECU. fuel press. spark. this car has been amazing. No real headaches. I hope she continues to treat me right.
Old 04-04-2013, 07:59 PM
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firemn131
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haha, yup definitely try easy first. Battery. then maybe a tester LH-ECU. fuel press. spark. this car has been amazing. No real headaches. I hope she continues to treat me right.
Old 04-04-2013, 08:10 PM
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Mongo
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I had clicking injectors when the ignition was turned on and idle issues when my LH went. Time for a new one.
Old 04-05-2013, 12:27 AM
  #24  
WallyP

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If you simply turn the ignition switch on (without trying the starter) and hear the injectors clicking, it is 99% certain that the LH ECU (injection computer) has failed and must be replaced or rebuilt.
Old 04-05-2013, 02:47 AM
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firemn131
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yup. Good strong Batt. turns over fine. No start. Steady clicking...Damn today has been an expensive day for parts.
Thnx for all the help
Old 04-05-2013, 02:56 AM
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Landseer
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Use one of the services/sources mentioned in this thread by Hinchcliffe.

Cost is reasonable, part is fixed for good, and they all know exactly what is necessary to repair the unit.

Consider sending MAF away at same time, premptively, for replacement of the platinum wire and review of the circuits.


If you send it to one of the big advertisers that specialize in 911 or boxster electronics place it can cost 3X to 4X.
Old 04-05-2013, 04:31 PM
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firemn131
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Mostly confirmed today.
Good battery, swapped relays
Still no start with clicking.
Put a stethoscope on it...Definitely the injectors.
One of our guys on here has a spare LH ECU i will pick up tonight.
Thanx for the tips
Old 04-05-2013, 05:23 PM
  #28  
Schocki
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Talk to John Speake, he can certainly help you.

Time to change both LH-ECU and MAF. Your car will feel like new again

Honestly I consider the LH-ECU and MAF "preventive" maintenance parts. If you're still drivng around with the originals, get them changed .
Invest your money in rebuilt units. Most of the time they fail when you don't expect it. What is your time worth...???
Old 04-05-2013, 07:04 PM
  #29  
Mrmerlin
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FWIW you will usually test your suspect computer in a good car,
instead of putting a good computer into a suspect engine,harness.

this way you can confirm that the problem transfers with your suspect computer,
and your harness or electrical system isnt the cause of a computer failure.

yes its an extra step in the diagnosis chain,
but this can prevent the new /good computer from being damaged
Old 04-06-2013, 01:59 PM
  #30  
firemn131
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Well, its the computer. Good and bad news.. that we figured out the culpret in short order, (thnx rennlist) but the cost is pretty hi. I found that at some point one of the PO had an issue with the connector. As i was removing the lh i saw 3 suspect wires that entered the back of the connector thru a drilled hole..hmmmmm...turns out that 3 tabs in the computer had broken off. So the PO soldered them directly to the harness plug...Interesting..had to cut them to get it all out tho.

Thanks Glenn M for you spare. it saved me sooo much pain....

the while your in theres have begun again


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