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OBX Racing Mufflers and Resonators

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Old 03-31-2014, 12:30 AM
  #31  
Mongo
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Thanks! Thinking of going with a single oval or better looking dual tips?
Old 04-11-2014, 12:40 PM
  #32  
Fronkenstein
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Originally Posted by FBIII
Is there benefit to running an x pipe in addition to the required y pipe in this case?
In this case the "X" pipe doesn't really add much value since it's a 2 into 1 exhaust right off the headers. "X" pipe has advantage on full dual UNLESS there is a tuned resonator after the "X" and even then it's more of a noise versus performance trade off
Old 04-11-2014, 12:42 PM
  #33  
Fronkenstein
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Does anyone know if the OBX S4 3 bolt headers will fit the older 78-81 2 bolt heads if I cut off the hooks? I can't find any OBX's on ebay for the early sharks.
Old 04-11-2014, 12:51 PM
  #34  
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if i remember right, the spacing is a little different.
Old 04-11-2014, 01:07 PM
  #35  
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If someone out there with access to an S4 head that could measure the on-center spacing of the two studs that are opposite one another it would be very much appreciated!

As long as the ports will match up I can always machine the flanges to match the studs. Unless of course someone can point me to a supplier for OBX headers that fit my shark:-)
Old 04-12-2014, 02:52 AM
  #36  
danglerb
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Post a WTB thread, there are plenty of US 85/86 manifolds around.
Old 05-31-2014, 12:28 PM
  #37  
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Video from my Droid finally uploaded. Sound quality isn't so great.

Old 05-31-2014, 05:35 PM
  #38  
nzpaul
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Originally Posted by Mongo
Does anyone have any recommendations on what type of paint I could use to cover the welds in order to prevent rust? I was thinking something like the chrome duplicolor I saw on the shelf at Napa. However, I doubt it would hold up to heat. Then again, I am only using it on the exhaust tip weld to the muffler.
Not sure what you call it over there, but Pickling Paste aka Passivation Paste will do it. You can buy it at welding supplies outlets, that deal with stainless steel.
Old 05-31-2014, 07:36 PM
  #39  
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It's called pickling paste here in Canada as well. It is very strong acid so be careful when using it.

From what I've read, without pickling the Heat Affected Zone and the weld are less noble then the base material and thus become the anode in a galvanic corrosion pair.

Painting the welds may make it better or worse, depending on the nobility and coverage of the paint, as SS protects itself with a chromium layer on the top. The reason it might make it worse is that the heat affected zone extends to the interior of the pipe as well.

The pickling brings the chromium layer to the surface.

Good luck,

Looks great.



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