R.Pires

Hi,

My fuel gauge wasn’t accurate at all, I filled the tank and the needle indicates only ¾ full, only starts to come down when about 250km done and then the needle reaches and passes the red zone well before the reserve light comes on.
I thought the solution was easy, new fuel level sender, new gasket and new cap!
Well, now I have a working reserve light as I did before but I have also an inoperative fuel gauge with the needle stuck in the red zone no matter the quantity of fuel in the deposit!
Electrical connection problem? Is the new fuel level sender already “dead”? And if the level sender is not working or as a bad connection why is the reserve light working, isn’t’ it a part of the level sender?
TIA for your answers and help.

Regards

928NOOBIE

I am having same issue (new tank / sender) and guage will only read between 3/4 and full.

StratfordShark

t's a long time since I changed that sender, but I seem to recall that the reserve light warning is a separate wire (of the 3 on the plug) to the wire which carries the resistance reading which drives the needle.

I would start with a very thorough clean of the plug and connector at the sender end.

There may be a problem with connectors at the pod end, or the tracks/nuts on the pod circuit board itself.

R.Pires

Hi,

At first I thought it could be a bad connection at the dash, some contacts that need cleaning, but, although I'm sure they need cleaning, the only thing done was removing the old sender and replace it with a new one with a new gasket and also a new plastic cap.
The dash wasn't touched.
And before that the needle was working, not accurate, but working…

Regards

Bilal928S4

The connector that needs cleaning is the one at the sender. It sometimes does not seat properly or has crud that does not let it make a good contact.

ROG100

Did you remove the retaining spring in the new sender before install.
It is there to protect the float during shipping.
Not easy to see and often an issue.

R.Pires

Hi Roger,

It was my mechanic who mounted the sender and probably he didn't remove it.
I also didn't know about that retaining spring.
I will check on Monday, but I'm almost sure it's that because it was working before the replacement and the connections look clean.
Thanks for the tip

Regards

Mrmerlin

Hi Roger can you please expand on the retaining spring in the fuel sender
How does it work where is it connected .

Doesnt the fact that the float sliding inside the sender mean its free for full travel?

ROG100

The sender comes from the factory with a thin metal spring/clip near the bottom which holds the float in place to save damage during transit. Once ready to install you remove the clip allowing the float to now move and do its job.
This has happened a few times and we now add our own label saying remove before install.
Roger

PS Sean has a picture

SeanR

That wire thing at the bottom? Pull it out. I can't tell you how many people have installed a sender and then brought it to me telling me the gas gauge won't work. They kinda get embarrassed when I pull the sender, pull the safety wire and re-install.

Mrmerlin

Thanks for the picture Sean,
it musta been out of the last one i installed,
but i did test it before i installed it
plugged the connector on and tilted the sender and the float went from empty to full and verified on the gauge

Herman K

All 89+ models have the onboard cability for calibrating the system

HiWind

Wow interesting thanks!

Tomkat80222

Not that I had the same problem, but mine was stuck after filling up. Do all the years use a similar float system? I turned the car on and the needle read empty and said ****. I tried accelerating, braking and turning side to side. No change. I turned the car on and off a few times. The next time I turned it on all good. I love how these cars really are alive. They can get sick and better all by themselves. I know on old Supra's the float get heavy and read low. A little bending of the wire the float is on and the problem is solved. From looking at the picture these ones go up and down on the large shaft? I guess the float could shift and stick in place. I just don't understand why shacking the tank didn't fix this problem.

HiWind

Worn parts sadly don't get better ... When mechanical parts start acting up its the beginning of the end in most cases.