Expansion tank / Reservoir tank replacement tips?
#31
I bought my expansion tank, I went to the website to check out the link. I'm just wondering, I have the 16v engine on a 84S. Do I have to mess with the intake meaning removing some of the tubes or is it just the fuel rail?? Also I didn't get quite clear on the fender part, does it have to come off completely or only loosen??? Thanks. Pics would be veryyyy helpful!!!
#32
Team Owner
NOVECTOR I would leave the metal insert in the coolant tank since it runs at 200 degrees ,
the plastic may soften and the hose could blow off, this metal wont rust as it is immersed in coolant
the plastic may soften and the hose could blow off, this metal wont rust as it is immersed in coolant
#34
Team Owner
My comment was in reference to post #22 it shows a collar removed from the coolant bottle.
I think this collar should be left in the tank
I think this collar should be left in the tank
#35
Rennlist Member
Personally, nothing amazes me more than the people who spend thousands of dollars on an engine refresh and the entire engine bay looks fantastic, yet won’t spend $150 to replace those 2 pieces of crappy looking yellow plastic. I saw the new tank in Randy's post-fire engine pics and thought "that's what right looks like." Again, it’s just me and my quest for white plastic But in the end, it's probably just the bromide in the plastic...
#36
So I just around to change my expansion tank, I was wondering if I should replace the hose at the bottom? Also who knows the part number for the hose on top of the expansion tank??
#37
Chronic Tool Dropper
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Replace the hose at the bottom, the hose at the back, the hoses at the front, and the hose across the back, and the connector hose at the back of the head. You have the system drained, they are all likely the same age (original), and all were due for replacement last year or earlier. Want to avoid getting stranded in the summer heat alonside a highway someplace with coolant on the ground, wondering where the AAA truck will dump you and the car? (answer above)
#40
I just placed my order for that, I had a concern though, the line that goes to the engine from the expansion tank. The hoses are in 2 with a nipple in the middle, does that have any use or can I just replace it with one whole hose???
Thank you!
Thank you!
#41
Rennlist Member
So, imagine the worst possible case where that 3rd bolt in the back outside position is still in there. Has anyone had this occur?....and how did you deal with it?
Also, the neck of my windscreen tank not only has the rusted insert in it, but it's cracked, too. I'm guessing that if I were to squeeze the neck, it would worsen the cracking (merely a guess). Any thoughts on how you would remove the rusted insert under these conditions? I figure that if I can remove it, some epoxy on the cracks will rescue the tank.
Bob
Also, the neck of my windscreen tank not only has the rusted insert in it, but it's cracked, too. I'm guessing that if I were to squeeze the neck, it would worsen the cracking (merely a guess). Any thoughts on how you would remove the rusted insert under these conditions? I figure that if I can remove it, some epoxy on the cracks will rescue the tank.
Bob
#42
Rennlist Member
So, imagine the worst possible case where that 3rd bolt in the back outside position is still in there. Has anyone had this occur?....and how did you deal with it?
Also, the neck of my windscreen tank not only has the rusted insert in it, but it's cracked, too. I'm guessing that if I were to squeeze the neck, it would worsen the cracking (merely a guess). Any thoughts on how you would remove the rusted insert under these conditions? I figure that if I can remove it, some epoxy on the cracks will rescue the tank.
Bob
Also, the neck of my windscreen tank not only has the rusted insert in it, but it's cracked, too. I'm guessing that if I were to squeeze the neck, it would worsen the cracking (merely a guess). Any thoughts on how you would remove the rusted insert under these conditions? I figure that if I can remove it, some epoxy on the cracks will rescue the tank.
Bob
For the washer fluid neck, I think most are probably in bad shape--mine sure was. Putting it in boiling water will soften the plastic and may help. Or, $50 for a new one...
Last edited by NoVector; 09-09-2018 at 12:50 AM.
#43
Three Wheelin'
This is off topic, but someone (Carl? You there?) should start making ABS harnesses, i'll pay the good money for one. It's not really that complicated, and you don't really NEED to use the original white/clamshell connectors, just go with some modern weathertight connectors on all the newer cars.