kevinlieb

My expansion tank on my '88 S4 cracked from age and started leaking. I am trying to replace it. It is VERY hard to get out!

Fortunately there were only 2 bolts fastened: one front and one inside on the rear. If the outside rear bolt was on I don't know how I could have gotten to it. Now I am trying to get to the hose on the bottom but I don't see how to reach it. It was getting quite dark so I couldn't try for too long but it seems quite difficult to reach.

Any tips?

There is a valve of some kind attached to a large diameter hose that goes thru engine compartment on the passenger (right) side that is really in my way. Is it worth trying to remove this valve to get more room?

Thanks in advance!

928Myles

From memory I attached the bottom hose before wrestling the tank into place.

Myles

polecat702

My wrong, never mind.

Mrmerlin

remove the hose from the metal hard line , just forward of the tank,
leave it connectecd at the bottom of the tank
after you remove the tank then swap the hose to the new tank,
and make sure to orient the clamp to face the bottom of the car here it can still be tightened.
If the top seal for the sender isnt good then a O ring will work

Calgary Ole

+1
Clamps in the correct orientation is the key. Also have bandades standing by...

Stromius

As memory serves, with both bolts holding the tank it's a bear, so remove the one you can get to and break/wrestle the tank where the other will remain. Use only the one bolt you can see with the new tank in front. Stays put just fine.

jeff spahn

You can get an aluminum one from 928MotorSports. I got one at Xmas a few years ago. Very nice.
Can't see level in tank but you have a level sensor anyway so use that.
Once the snow stops I am getting the waterless coolant put in so I can open the tank with full engine temps and not get sprayed. Plus it is non-corrosive to our engines so that worry goes away too.

otisp

Further to what Mrmerlin said, if you take off the two top hoses (including that vacuum pot) you can probably maneuver it around enough to get at that bottom hose at the hard line.
Also check those hoses. They're probably cracked.

While that tank is out, does anybody have an easy way to get the washer pump back on those rubber deals that I assume it is supposed to be on?

James Bailey

You should consider putting on NEW hoses.......they carry full pressure and when they leak you overheat. What makes a new car more reliable? all the hoses are new

ALKada

Good advise since you're in there anyway and especially cheap when you only have to do it once.

kevinlieb

Absolutely good advice. I got a full set of new hoses when I ordered the tank. All my hoses seem dry and brittle.

Fortunately the hardest bolt to get to, the outside rear-most bolt was not on my car.

I'll take a look at the tank again in the daylight this evening and see if I can get it out. Seems that the "trick" is don't try to detach it from the bottom of the tank: take the hose off at the hard line instead.

James Bailey

If you encounter one where the inside bolt is in place you can cut up/ destroy the old tank to get better access.

dr bob

++++ On the new hoses throughout.

FWIW, Harbor Freight sells a set of long-reach pliers with hose loops at the end. They are way handy for projects like this with limited access. http://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece...ers-37909.html

There are a couple relatively fragile sensors associated with that reservoir. First is the level sensor that fits on top. The other is a pressure switch that lives in one of the two vent hoses between engine and reservoir or radiator vent and reservoir. Use extreme care when handling that line and the switch. The vent hose itself is 8mm or 5/16" ID. If you can't find the Porsche hose, EFI hose from a POLAPS is a suitable replacement.

Get a new Behr cap to go on the new reservoir too.

The hose clamps have hex heads on them that are prime candidates for a nutdriver or 1/4"-drive socket. They are either 7 or 8mm hex on the little ones. WAY EASIER than trying to keep a screwdriver indexed in a slot in the clamping screw. A good universal joint and a couple extensions, and you can save a bit of cussing and a LOT of blood. Don't overtighten them; Just enough is perfect.

NoVector

I just did this job last month. I had easy access to the bottom hose clamp from under neath the car. I used a new hose when putting back together and put that clamp on first. BTW - I thought the same thing, thank God Porsche didn't put that 3rd screw/bolt in to hold the tank in place!

BTW - I heated and took out that metal sleeve from the new tank to keep it from getting crappy (rusty) brown. (same for the windshield washer tank...) It's nice to actually see the fluid level now.

jpitman2

Re the windscreen washer pump rubbers....fit them to the pump bracket OFF the car, then get the pointy ends started in the mounting holes in the inner fender, then go under the fender over the wheel, and pull the ends through until they are set properly...

Also, FWIW, I replaced the header tank with a local alloy one a few years ago, as the RHD version is around 3 times the price of the LHD unit. The alloy one was a little more than a LHD one, and looks much better, no issues so far.
jp 83 Euro S AT 55k