69gaugeman

Take the engine out..only partially kidding.....
I have never seen one with the third bolt.Not saying it is never there.Just that I have never seen one with it.

Chuck Schreiber

One more tiny tip.
Actually this was the biggest pain in the *** for me on this job.
Once you have the bottom hose oriented correctly, reservoir relatively in place, etc. Make sure you put a good amount of some type of lubricant on the inside of the bottom hose where it
"slips on" to the steel line.
I jacked with trying to get this on forever! I Finally ended up putting some dish soap on the inside of the hose.
It slipped right on to the steel line after that.
Oh yeah, make sure the clamp is already on the hose and oriented so you can get to it. Someone probably already mentioned that above.

kevinlieb

I did at least most of the tank replacement job this weekend. It definitely requires a LOT of patience.

The old one was really brittle and nasty.

Tips I would give to those attempting this:

1. Take the washer filler neck out. It is totally in the way. This requires taking the wheel and fender liner off. This also helps in taking the valve? off that is in the way there too.

2. Be prepared to get a new filler neck. Mine was so nasty and rusty from the years I couldn't believe it. It looked like it had been on the bottom of the ocean. I think it gets lots of moisture and air and is not generally submerged so very prone to rust. There are two top bolts holding it on and a small phillips head screw on the bottom. Then you need to remove the hose clamp inside the fender liner and wiggle it off.

3. Dish soap is KEY in getting the hoses on. Trying to do it dry was impossible.

4. Be really careful with the ABS connectors inside the black clamshell holder. They are brittle as hell. Mine disintegrated and now I have a new project trying to repair it (another thread)

5. The small hose going from the reservoir was totally shot. Be prepared to replace ALL associated hoses in the process.

Thanks to everyone for their tips and advice!

kevinlieb

(deleted, posted in wrong place)

17prospective buyer

Yeah those ABS connectors really worried me when i saw them. I actually used alot of that self fusing silicone tape to re-sleeve some of the misc harness where the old sleeving had gone brittle and fallen off over the years. The stuff works great, looks stock, and should hold up as long as the regular sleeving did.

You talked about pulling metal sleeves, you were referring to the washer fluid resevoir right? Not the expansion tank? I pulled the sleeves in my washer fluid resevoir and filler neck, they were rusted to ****, but all that needs to be done is to squeeze the necks with channel locks a little bit, the plastic will flex without cracking (in my case at least) and this will eventually separate whats left of the sleeves from the plastic, then just shake the tank with a bunch of sand, rocks, and CLR to get the remaining deposits out. Big run on sentence there, sorry.

kevinlieb

Thanks.

metal sleeves: I was referring to the washer filler neck only. The washer filler neck is so old and brittle that if I squeezed it all I'm sure it would crack. I might give it a shot but I'm pretty sure a new one is in order. Now I know why my washer fluid barely comes out: all hoses and nozzles are surely filled with rust particles.

NoVector

I took it out of both... Thinking it might have something to do with the old tanks turning crappy brown. Although it's probably the bromide in the plastic.

kevinlieb

Well one tip to add here: make sure you are fixing what is actually broken.

I thought it was the coolant expansion tank because of all the fluid coming out right by the tank but seems it isn't so. After putting it all back together with a new tank I have the same issue. Seems it is a leak behind the area of the air cleaner. I can't see what it is but it is big. This became very clear when doing a cold pressurization test of the system, which is what I should have done in the first place.

What is behind the air cleaner that could be leaking so bad? Is this where the heater control valve is?

Thanks in advance!

jpitman2

Heater control tap is on the rear of the RH head, at least on my 16v it is. If your header tank is over that same side....that might be it.
jp 83 Euro S AT 55k

Rob Edwards

Could also be the feed or return heat hoses to/from the heater core, but more likely to be the short hose between 1-4 head and the heater valve.

Landseer

Can also be a leak from failure of the nipple/casting itself, leading to the short hose into the heater valve. Same vicinity.

Here's the innaugural thread for this failure mode, called the "Flyin Scotsman coolant leak", see picture post 39
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ar-engine.html

kevinlieb

Turns out my "short hose" (now I know what everyone is talking about) blew in a very obvious way.



I'll now call it the "short fat bastard" to distinguish it from the short hose that goes from the expansion tank to the pressure sensor, which is also short and was going bad on my car. I could have saved myself hours of work replacing the tank and the related parts if I had seen this earlier. This is why I am not a mechanic for a living...

Is there anything special about this hose or can I just go to my local Autozone and get a replacement? Seems to be around .75" in diameter.

dr bob

Two different sizes. 15mm or 5/8" one end, 19mm or 3/4" the other. I sifted through a lot of ose sections by hand at the parts store, I ended up finding a longer piece than I needed, and cut an elbowed end off to get it just right. It's on James M's '85 Euro project, so he can speak to durability of Dayco hoses for the 928.

In the way back when, Gates Green Stripe heater and radiator hoses were the most durable pieces a common person could find in a local store. An extra layer of reinforcing inside, and extra life from it if you don't cook the hoses.

Or buy one from our sponsors/vendors.

kevinlieb

Thanks. Would not have guessed they were different sizes on each end based on how far gone my existing hose is. I got a piece of straight hose though and it fit pretty snugly on both sides. I hope this does the trick until I get the proper hose.

kevinlieb

I ordered the "right" hose from Roger. This is not a place to cheap out. I am guessing I didn't notice the size difference between the two ends of the hose because someone cheaped out in the past on my car and used some random hose rather than the right one. Thanks for all the help!

(revised: I see the 928 part # on the old hose. Guess it just failed with age)