88, 928s4 - Sparco seat fit...?
#16
I started mocking up the seat in the car last night. I need to keep the OE 3-Point harnesses for DD needs. The OE harness female/tunnel side mounts directly to the original seat, so it moves with the seat as you slide up and back. The Corbeau seats have no such option. Where are people mounting that with an aftermarket seat installation? Obvious answer is also bolted through the tunnel, but I am open to options.
#17
Rennlist Member
I started mocking up the seat in the car last night. I need to keep the OE 3-Point harnesses for DD needs. The OE harness female/tunnel side mounts directly to the original seat, so it moves with the seat as you slide up and back. The Corbeau seats have no such option. Where are people mounting that with an aftermarket seat installation? Obvious answer is also bolted through the tunnel, but I am open to options.
The seat base that I purchased had a tab welded to it on the right/tunnel side for bolting the seat belt to. It worked fine but it was a very tight fit against the tunnel.
I'm pretty sure it was a standard 911 seat base.
Here is a pic of a base/slider combo that shows a tab on the left side for the seat belt. This is not the same setup that I purchased, but its the same idea with the tab for mounting the seat belt.
#18
Finished getting passenger side mounted.
Notes:
1. I had to buy the Brey-Krauss R-9005 seatbelt mounts to mount to the seat slider base. I assume they are made of Platinum and Titanium, because they are $80 each for a bent piece of metal.
2. Think very, very, very hard before you buy the "shaved base". This option greatly reduces the seat to slider clearance, and makes mounting very challenging. The rear base-to-floor bolts that also hold the above seat belt mounts in place were a bloody nightmare. I ended up removing the front seat-to-base hex head bolts, and loosening the rear ones so I could lean the seat back to get to those bolts. This in itself was a challenge due to do "in-situ" clearance. And don't even bother using the factory hex bolt for the base-to-floor mounting. No room for hex key, let alone ratchet + hex head. Go straight to your hardware supplier and buy 6 some Grade 8.8 or better 8mm bolts ( 30mm I think) so you can use your flat Gear Wrench.
Notes:
1. I had to buy the Brey-Krauss R-9005 seatbelt mounts to mount to the seat slider base. I assume they are made of Platinum and Titanium, because they are $80 each for a bent piece of metal.
2. Think very, very, very hard before you buy the "shaved base". This option greatly reduces the seat to slider clearance, and makes mounting very challenging. The rear base-to-floor bolts that also hold the above seat belt mounts in place were a bloody nightmare. I ended up removing the front seat-to-base hex head bolts, and loosening the rear ones so I could lean the seat back to get to those bolts. This in itself was a challenge due to do "in-situ" clearance. And don't even bother using the factory hex bolt for the base-to-floor mounting. No room for hex key, let alone ratchet + hex head. Go straight to your hardware supplier and buy 6 some Grade 8.8 or better 8mm bolts ( 30mm I think) so you can use your flat Gear Wrench.
#23
Driver seat is in. Verdict is I gained maybe an inch. Looking at the seats, it seems like more, but the acid test of me sitting in my preferred position show about an inch of extra space over my helmet.
#24
Official Bay Area Patriot
Fuse 24 Assassin
Rennlist Member
Fuse 24 Assassin
Rennlist Member
I have a set of Corbeau brackets out of my old 944 track car that supposedly bolt into a 928 as well. I haven't confirmed this with Corbeau yet, but I'm willing to try them with some Procar Sportsman Pro seats based on a post in the first thread about 944 manual seats.
#25
And that is with you having them shave the seat base 1", yes? So if you'd not have the base shaved then you'd not have gained any headroom for all of your money & work?? Has to make the weight savings another consideration, but I'd mainly want to gain some headroom.
#26
Rennlist Member
Thanks Ken!
Question: what angle is the seat back at? Is it more "upright" then what you would have the stock seats?
Reason I ask is because with the stock seats, in order to even be able to sit in the car, much less be comfortable, I had to recline the seat back WAY back. This made an uncomfortable reach to the steering wheel, shifter, radio, light switches, etc.
With the other seats, I was able to adjust the seat back to a much more comfortable position which allowed me to grasp the steering wheel, shifter, and switches much more comfortably.
So, while you may have only gained 1" in headroom, I'm wondering if you were able to adjust the seat back to be more vertical/comfortable?
Question: what angle is the seat back at? Is it more "upright" then what you would have the stock seats?
Reason I ask is because with the stock seats, in order to even be able to sit in the car, much less be comfortable, I had to recline the seat back WAY back. This made an uncomfortable reach to the steering wheel, shifter, radio, light switches, etc.
With the other seats, I was able to adjust the seat back to a much more comfortable position which allowed me to grasp the steering wheel, shifter, and switches much more comfortably.
So, while you may have only gained 1" in headroom, I'm wondering if you were able to adjust the seat back to be more vertical/comfortable?
#27
MGW-Fla - A fair point. It was a boatload of work and money for just an inch. But, to Neverlate's comments, I am now sitting more upright, which makes the leg and arm geometry much better, so I am doing a little apples to oranges comparison. Just as importantly, I did not just do it for headroom. I also now have seats that will accept a 5/6 point harness, are dozens of pounds lighter than the stock 8-way power seats and the orginal seats were in pretty bad shape. So, overall, it's a win. Maybe not a grand slam home run, but still a win.