Turn signal & high beam switch issues
#1
AutoX
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hello all. I'm having a couple of issues with the turn signal switch on my '87 928 S4 auto. First issue: High beams will work in the "flash to pass" mode by pulling towards me and releasing, but will not work in either of the two latched positions (I get low beams only). Second issue: left turn signal will not release/reset after completing a left hand turn. I have to remember to manually flick off or will end up driving down the road like an idiot w/ blinker continuing to flash (quite unbecoming in a zoo-per-car). Right turn signal works fine and releases automatically after a right hand turn.
Any chance these are simple "mechanical" issues w/in the switch that can be fixed, perhaps by replacing a broken pin or cam, or does this sound like the whole switch would need to be replaced?
Thanks in advance!
Any chance these are simple "mechanical" issues w/in the switch that can be fixed, perhaps by replacing a broken pin or cam, or does this sound like the whole switch would need to be replaced?
Thanks in advance!
#2
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I would just replace the whole switch. There are other issues that can arise with the high beams, so you might investigate those possibilities as well. You have a combination headlamp relay at XXIII-XXIV and two fuses, #31 & #32 for high beams on each lamp.
#4
Electron Wrangler
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The cancellation is probably a tab inside the combo switch broken - there was a thread recently on this (Tony) (and a long time ago too). It is most likely you at least need parts from another switch to fix this.
In general the combo switches are fairly reliable - so a used one may be an option. They are not all the same by year so be careful. For some years (late models) they are rare and really expensive as new replacements so a repair sacrificing an older switch is a viable idea - for others a total replacement is probably easier.
The high/low switching issue is probably quite repairable - IF its the switch - it could also be the relay if only the Aux HL come on in flash to pass mode...check?
The combo switches are riveted together - so were not intended to be disassembled - they kind of explode - so have a big ziplock handy... reassembly is a puzzle at first but doable - pretty much all parts are replaceable... you will need to countersink the metal face so you can use countersunk (wood) screws for reattachment...
The high/lo beam switch has to be adjusted just right... can be a bit fiddly.
Alan
In general the combo switches are fairly reliable - so a used one may be an option. They are not all the same by year so be careful. For some years (late models) they are rare and really expensive as new replacements so a repair sacrificing an older switch is a viable idea - for others a total replacement is probably easier.
The high/low switching issue is probably quite repairable - IF its the switch - it could also be the relay if only the Aux HL come on in flash to pass mode...check?
The combo switches are riveted together - so were not intended to be disassembled - they kind of explode - so have a big ziplock handy... reassembly is a puzzle at first but doable - pretty much all parts are replaceable... you will need to countersink the metal face so you can use countersunk (wood) screws for reattachment...
The high/lo beam switch has to be adjusted just right... can be a bit fiddly.
Alan
#5
Instructor
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
This just happened to me today on my 89. After disassembly of the dash for a successful LED job, everything works but the high beams will not click forward and stay. They momentarily can be pushed forward and the lights go high. I was wondering Alan, about details of "The high/lo beam switch has to be adjusted just right... can be a bit fiddly." Is this assuming full disassembly/reassembly? and, LoneShark, we can compare notes on this.
#6
Vegas, Baby!
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
![](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/ranks/veteran_navy.png)
![](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/ranks/veteran_marine_corp.png)
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I've got the whole unit if anyone wants it. My 87 got totaled so it's available. $75.00 is what I paid for it, plus whatever it cost to mail.
#7
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I might have to take you up on that offer if lone shark doesn't grab them, my highs stay on all the time, unless I physically hold them or stuff something behind the stalk.
Trending Topics
#8
Electron Wrangler
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Alan
#10
Instructor
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Update: Mine Fixed! During the reassembly of the steering column the Switch cluster assembly bottoms out on a raised rib on the steering shaft. I lined it up straight and tightened the clamp bolt. This was wrong. There is a point before bottoming out where the switch cluster needs to be in contact with the steering wheel, mainly for the horn contact to work. What had happened is that the cluster was too far down the shaft, and the 'push forward' Highbeam lock position could not be made because it was hitting the collar around the steering wheel. Pulled it up, and highbeam switch functions normally, and BTW, the horn now works too.