PorKen

Duty cycle maxes out at around 90% at 6200 RPM with a ~12.75 AFR, ~310 rwhpsae. (Same as the S3 chips, IIRC.)

(92% in the low 12's)

hans14914

I am running (or trying to run) newer injectors with the UScar connectors. The stupid adapters still havent shown up yet. Ordered them from an outfit in IL as I though they would be here next day. Over a week later, tracking shows them in CA.

May have to order another set. The waiting is unbearable.

Although since she is grounded, it did give me motivation to pull the leaking radiator and install one of my new units.

gruffalo

I'm browsing eBay for injectors, but I don't really know what I'm looking for. Please help! O-rings? Metal case ? Connector? Is there a safe part number to search for?

Octane adaption: I can get 98 eu/ron pump gas, will I benefit further from this? Over the 95 eu/ron?

PorKen

See Roger for lower special o-ring, metal body, EV1, 13~15 ohm.

These seem popular - 0280150947 (blue top), I used these - 0280150991 (tan top).

I don't think a '87 will benefit much using over 95 ron/91 aki, because of the lower compression pistons, (especially in Norway)?
'88.5-up and/or in hot weather might make a few more HP with higher octane.

Hilton

Note there are two types of Ford 24lb "blue top" injectors. The bosch ones have 4 holes (the part no. ken gives above), and have a black lower-body on the injector.

The other (cheaper) blue-tops have a silver lower-body on the injector, are made by Denso, and have an old style pintle.

DKWalser

On another injector thread, someone claimed that the pintle style injectors were superior for 928s than are the newer 4 hole style. (No, I didn't save a link to the thread. I just remember being confused by the claim.) So, with Ken's new chips, which style injector should we be using? (I assume the answer is a 24# 4 hole injector, but some of my assumptions have been wrong before....)

byrdman454

Just got some Bosch 0280150947 (blue tops) in the mail. These are the 4-hole style. The one thing that seems odd is that the pintle cap is longer than the original and the hole in the middle for the stream is coned. I thought it might be a difference in the 19# versus 24#, but pics on the web show the same short pintle cap with just a hole. Do you think there will be any issues using these blue top rebuilds with the longer coned cap? Should I try and swap the 19# caps on it instead?

PorKen

Couple of minor fixes after more mountain pass testing (I know, I know...tough job ).

Turns out the factory code I picked for Sport Mode was only for higher rpm O2 operation (AFRs would stay flay for only a couple of seconds).
Fortunately the code I wrote was easy enough to port to another location, using the WOT flag bypass to stop O2 operation.

With Sport Mode working properly, sometimes for long periods in 5th gear up the mountain, my mileage actually went up. 24+ mpg over a 320+ mile mountainous trip (89 octane)!


I enabled the ROW manual CO-pot for fine tuning of individual installs. If not needed, the CO-pot can be removed - if it is not present it is ignored (factory code will make it super rich if the pot is disconnected).

I have to round up some 3-pin AMP plugs!

BC

Yay! Awesome Ken. Another e85 back door!

MjRocket

Ken

Is this a manual kick down switch your working on?

PorKen

I'm debating whether to put in one more geeky thing. Code for a (DIY) light to show when Sport Mode is active, using the empty shift light pin (#26, switched 12V).

Forgot to mention that I increased the multiplier for the pot code, so you can really crank it up (or down).

It has a strong effect on WOT, too, not just cruise and idle.

Negative. It's a manual adjustment for the fueling baseline to suit whatever injectors/airbox/exhaust/etc. you're running.

Even winter/summer can be adjusted, if you are persnickety (otherwise auto-CO will take care of it).

Mongo

Yes I know I'm bumping an almost year old thread, but I was looking through it this AM. Ken, your pics above show the 3-pin for the O2 bypassed with what could be either a potentiometer, or your own setup.

For your chipsets on your webpage, if the car is not an ROW, has cats and an O2 sensor, will your PROMs utilize the sensor still, or will it be bypassed with the wiring above? If I missed it somewhere in the thread, my apologies as I am just confirming.

PorKen

The 3-pos connector above is only for the CO pot. The O2 sensor connector is different/round.

The stock chip ignores the CO pot if the coding plug indicates cat equipped. My chips employ the CO pot if it is plugged in, regardless of the coding plug.

Mongo

Ok I think I remember the wiring now. I forgot that the O2 sensor and POT are on separate harnesses. Does that mean your chips will ignore the O2 then? Or, does it employ both sensors for adjusting AFR?

PorKen

Still uses the O2 sensor. The CO pot allows for more range of the base tuning, to which the O2 adaptation is applied.





Since this is at the top...

There will be an update soon for the ignition chip, with some nice improvements in response and WOT power. (It may be followed by an even better one, but it is still experimental.)