Carl Fausett

It doesn't snap in, it slips in (and that's the problem).
There is nothing to secure it there.

I can't help but think this is the wrong part. The part Sean is promoting is the nylon bushing for the clutch release arm. Used here - yes, it fits over the ball and yes, it fits in the cup. But that doesn't mean its the right part.

From the factory - the "shifter ball cup" (called an "angular joint" in the PET) is a ball cup with the nylon captured within. It is a different part number.

One is PN 928 116 145 03

The other is PN 928 424 005 00

SeanR

Carl, you do know that the last part number is the entire assembly right? What do you think goes inside there?

And yes, it will snap in place. Put that same bush I posted, inside the cup. Get it on top of the ball and pull down really ****ing hard, it snaps and holds.

Like I said, I've done dozens and they have all held correctly. You simply did it wrong.

I do realize you'd rather sell $80.00 worth of stuff to someone instead of $16.00.

Lizard928

Sean speaks the truth. The bushing does snap into place when done correctly and does not pop out.

I have installed these bushings, and then later had to pop this off the ball to install the short shifter, I had to get under the car and use a screwdriver and hammer to drive it off the ball. And the bushing stayed in the cup, not on the ball.

Doing it wrong is selling someone suspension with 4" longer springs than the kit with 400# softer springs because the brand you choose to carry doesnt make that rate in the correct length. Then giving complete BS fixes, forcing the customer to fix it themselves, and later lying to other customers telling them that you have "never had this problem before".

depami

wopfe

Ok, Guys i ordered the original factory one today...I will give you an update if i get the bushing on the right way...I am preparing to a difficult job, but then again i will be very happy if this wil get me rid of the noise in the transmission...

Again, thanks for all the advice even you guys don´t agree on everything!

BRB-83-911SC

Having just replaced my ball cup bushing insert, I can see how it may fall out of the cup if the bushing is not fully seated into the cup. It does, in fact, snap into place, and it will take some effort the get it fully seated so that the outside edge is below the lip on the coupler.

Sharkbody

A ratchet strap can be useful in seating it. G

wopfe

Brian,

Great picture, explains it all to me...

Ad0911

I fitted the whole assrmblu new. It snapped on so tight that it is hard to believe it will ever come loose. It will eventually because of the heat so I understand. This setup will get me on the road but once it is on the road, I want Rogers short shift kit because I love a precise shifter. I understand the shift rod in front between ball and shifter can stay in place with the short shifter, while being unused.

Carl Fausett

Great drawing, Brian.

I'm still unconvinced. Not that it fits - that it is the right part.

You'll have to explain to me why the nylon ball cup is white nylon and the nylon inside the shifter is brown/beige. I dont know, but I think the material is different - and I suspect it is to make the nylon tolerate higher temps found so close to the catalytic converters.

I noted the ones I had to replace were heat-deformed. We agree the reason they come off the ball is the nylon fails, right? I mean, its not the cup or the ball - its the nylon that fails. And I suspect the nylon gets embrittled through many many heat cycles until it cracks and falls out. On my 91, when I went to inspect the ball cup and why it was so sloppy, there was no nylon in there - it was just the cup over the ball. Nylon all gone.

But whatever - its an $11 part. So maybe you can replace it a couple times if it falls out or wears out early?

Sharkbody

Multiple replacements should foster proficiency, if you're into that sort of thing. G

jleidel

+1. You have to press down hard. Sean is not exaggerating. When I did this, I had to press down hard. If its hard for me, then it will be hard for most.

I've also installed the short shifter. As I stated above, either use the ball cup bushing or go with the short shifter. It maintains the correct shift dynamics with respect to the front and rear coupling with the least amount of guess work. If your torque tube is still on the car when you do this, you're only want to do this once. For those with big hands and big arms, good luck.

Lizard928

Have you ever removed a clutch fork or had remnants of the original bushing in it?
It's the same colour, and brittle composition. That's what happens to plastic after many years of use, especially in a hot environment!

Dave928S

Here's a new ball cup snapped inside the housing. You can see it's snapped in and sitting behind the outer rim, which keeps it in place.

If you properly seat a new one in the housing you have to butcher it to get it out.

Carl Fausett

You have convinced me that, with enough force, you are able to make it fit.

But as I questioned a number of pages ago - that does not necessarily mean its the right part.

Look, we all know that the manufacturers prefer to use one part in as many applications as they can to save money. The 928 head on the 944, the bushings in our 928 shifter fit a number of cars and linkages, etc etc.

The most expensive thing of all is a one-of part. A part they must make and stock and it fits only one car and one thing. Any yet, here it is.

That shifter ball cup is a one-of part for Porsche. Yet they sell the $11 nylon cup for the release fork, but NOT FOR THE SHIFTER BALL CUP.

Why would that be?

If it is the same dimensionaly as you say, then the only other thing it can be (IMO) is it must be the wrong material.

You know what - if you can jam the $11 part in there and it lasts a few years before you have to do it again, then maybe its good enough for the owner.

Don't shoot the messenger - I was just trying to suggest that Porsche has a reason that the nylon cup isn't the same, and if it isn't the dimensions, it must be the material. -