I guess i need a new Shifter Ball Cup...
#16
Just get the factory part
It will last years and years and is not a pain in the *** like the one Carl posted. I've tried to install two of those things and unless you the torque tube out or the engine mounts are collapsed, you won't get it in. That and it will rattle/wear down. Metal on Metal is going to vibrate/wear.
It will last years and years and is not a pain in the *** like the one Carl posted. I've tried to install two of those things and unless you the torque tube out or the engine mounts are collapsed, you won't get it in. That and it will rattle/wear down. Metal on Metal is going to vibrate/wear.
#17
That and it will rattle/wear down.
#18
FWIW, I'm happy with Carl's all-metal shifter ball cup. I did have the 'luxury' of installing it with the TT on the ground so I could put a nice glop of hi-temp grease in the cup, and get it adjusted properly. No rattle, no slop. I do use the rear factory coupler with its bushings, tried brass but did get a rattle with those.
#19
Bull****. I have torn them down after 4 years and there is no wear to speak of, and they do not rattle unless you don't snug them up. When tightened to have a slight amount of drag, they cannot rattle. If you have one rattle, it means you did not adjust the slop out of it.
#20
Thanks, Rob.
If you want to get rid of the rattle and slop in the rear shift linkage, try this:
http://www.928motorsports.com/parts/...r_coupling.php
Honestly - as soon as I drove this on my race car, the effect was so good I installed it on my street 91 928 GT too. I love it there also. Every shift goes "click" now. It feels great.
The third picture below is the OEM piece. You can see the slop in it. You have to make up that air gap on each shift before the gears will start to move...
If you want to get rid of the rattle and slop in the rear shift linkage, try this:
http://www.928motorsports.com/parts/...r_coupling.php
Honestly - as soon as I drove this on my race car, the effect was so good I installed it on my street 91 928 GT too. I love it there also. Every shift goes "click" now. It feels great.
The third picture below is the OEM piece. You can see the slop in it. You have to make up that air gap on each shift before the gears will start to move...
#21
Thanks everybody for the feedback. I don´t want to get the TT down, so i will give it a shot with both options (Carl´s and the factory part).
Carl, I send you an email for a price (i need it to be send to the Netherlands) including shipping. I will report back when i fixxed the problem!
Carl, I send you an email for a price (i need it to be send to the Netherlands) including shipping. I will report back when i fixxed the problem!
#23
Obviously, Roger's delrin bushings are for the rear shift coupler. Sorry my bad.
#24
Having done this more than once [on the same car], I would suggest one of two methods:
- use the factory bushing replacements and go with the factory cup installation
- go with a short shift kit [lizard shifter] from 928sRUS. This removes the ball cup problem all together.
I would not suggest Carl's solid shifter. If its not installed perfectly [which is damn near impossible with the torque tube still in the car], it will change the shift dynamics in a negative manner.
- use the factory bushing replacements and go with the factory cup installation
- go with a short shift kit [lizard shifter] from 928sRUS. This removes the ball cup problem all together.
I would not suggest Carl's solid shifter. If its not installed perfectly [which is damn near impossible with the torque tube still in the car], it will change the shift dynamics in a negative manner.
#25
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Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Holden Beach and Winston-Salem, North Carolina 82 928 Euro S 5spd MOSS GREEN/CHAMPAGNE-04 996 C4S CONV TIP POLAR SILVER/METROPOL BLUE
I don't think you can just replace the bushing in the front ball cup and expect it to stay on the ball. I think it's the same bushing that goes in the clutch lever ball cup. I replaced my front shift cup bushing and it popped out almost immediately. I had to put a giant hose clamp over it and the torque tube to keep it in place. If you want it to stay with no clamp you have to replace the whole ball cup with the correct bushing from what I've read. Gunar
#26
Carl - will your rear shift coupler fit inside of the factory protective rubber cover?
I don't think you can just replace the bushing in the front ball cup and expect it to stay on the ball. I think it's the same bushing that goes in the clutch lever ball cup. I replaced my front shift cup bushing and it popped out almost immediately. I had to put a giant hose clamp over it and the torque tube to keep it in place. If you want it to stay with no clamp you have to replace the whole ball cup with the correct bushing from what I've read. Gunar
#27
Talk about bull**** Carl. I've replaced several dozen of them and not had one fall out. As difficult as it is to get that cup snapped on the ball, if you have it pop off you are doing it wrong. If you want to sell your stuff that's all great, but don't lie to the people to do so.
#28
When I just replaced the white nylon ball cup only on my car back in 2003, the metal cap slipped right off the nylon right away (within the first hour, if I recall), just like Gunar said. I threw a huge hose clamp around the TT and front shifter linkage just like Gunar did just to keep the cup down and prevent its popping off.
...and it was this experience that brought me to develop the Precision Shifter Ball Cup.
No BS - that's my personal experience.
...and it was this experience that brought me to develop the Precision Shifter Ball Cup.
No BS - that's my personal experience.
#29
#30
The ball expands the insert and holds it in place. If you don't get all three together the right way, it will not hold. As in, if the cup is on the ball, but not in the cup. This happens if you don't get all of the old insert out of the cup or just plain didn't get it put in all the way. Put the insert in the cup then put it on the ball.