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1983 no power at the starter

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Old 02-07-2013, 03:14 PM
  #16  
Ian928
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I am a little surprised no-one has mentioned bad ignition switch yet, it is a very common problem. You could try this: Turn the key to the start position, then use both hands on the key head and try to move the tip of the key around. I was sure the alarm was my problem, but it turned out to be the switch.

And yes, I read what the PO said, but sometimes our mind finds patterns where there is none...
Old 02-07-2013, 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Ian928
I am a little surprised no-one has mentioned bad ignition switch yet, it is a very common problem. You could try this: Turn the key to the start position, then use both hands on the key head and try to move the tip of the key around. I was sure the alarm was my problem, but it turned out to be the switch.
This is why I asked whether the cluster warning indicator lights turned off when the ignition switch was turned to START.
Old 02-07-2013, 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Ian928
I am a little surprised no-one has mentioned bad ignition switch yet, it is a very common problem. You could try this: Turn the key to the start position, then use both hands on the key head and try to move the tip of the key around. I was sure the alarm was my problem, but it turned out to be the switch.

And yes, I read what the PO said, but sometimes our mind finds patterns where there is none...
Thanks for the tip. I tried this with no luck.
Old 02-07-2013, 04:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Kiln_Red
If your horn works, then swap relay X with XIV to verify that it is not just the relay at fault. If the horn still blows and the starter doesn't engage, then have a helper turn the key while you apply a 12V test light to the starter connections. If there is power, then your starter is probably froze. When you release the key from the start position, can you hear the fuel pump run for a moment? It should make a buzzing sound at the rear of the car.
I have yet to try swapping the relays, but yes the horn does work, no I can't hear the fuel pump.
Old 02-07-2013, 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Kiln_Red
Considering that your fuel pump is very likely to be seized, perhaps it would be better to ask it this way.. When you turn the key to START, do all of the instrument warning lights go out?
No they don't. Actually what comes on is the OBX and another one telling me the stop lamps need attention, neither go out when the key is in the on position or when the key is in the starting position.
Old 02-07-2013, 05:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Halflunar
I have yet to try swapping the relays, but yes the horn does work, no I can't hear the fuel pump.
Awesome! I switched the relay's and whaala, the starter is now turning over! Excellant tip for diagnostic purposes and very easy to determine quickly if fault of no power at starter is a relay!
Old 02-07-2013, 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Halflunar
Hi all!
I've recently rescued a 928 that has been sitting in outdoor storage for six years. Suffice to say, it's condition is rough at best. I've known of this car for some time and I know some of it's history.
Upon trailering it home, I discovered there is no power going to the starter when the key is turned. The dash lights come on and the headlights/turn signals, radio all work, but nothing at the starter. PO had said it sometimes had a problem like this and it was a problem with the "anti-theft".
Using this forum I disabled the factory alarm (1983 928) pulling the "Z" connector and jumping Z1 to Z6 and then disconnecting the negative battery cable. I still have dashboard power but nothing when I turn the key (other than dashboard power), which is to say the car won't start not even a click click click at the starter or any evidence the starter is attempting to engage.
You see I had thought it might be the alarm ignition cut out coming on for what I understand can be a variety of reason and so sought to di-activate the alrm for diagnostic purposes. The PO had stipulated that "often the car would not start if you unlocked the car from the drivers side door (The lock does work but if you lock it either with the key or from inside it won't activate the passenger side lock, however if you use the key on the passenger side it will lock and unlock all the door locks, locking the car from the drivers side using the key had formerly activated the ignition cut out feature of the alrm)."
So you can see where I thought it might be an alarm problem again.
I'd like to see if it can at least "start" before I embark on what will be a very long term project.
And to compound the problem, from what I'm reading 928 problems are made harder to diaganos as each year had particular differences so please if you have solutions or suggestions I hope they will be 1983 specific :-)
Thanks in advance for any input!
Addedum: It ran fine when parked and when this problem occured in the past the PO simply used the passenger side key to lock and then unlock all the door and the car would start.
I'm happy to report that a relay was preventing the power from getting to the starter. Switching the horn relay with the starter relay (X and XIV) for diagnostic purposes proved that the original starter relay was at fault. A very quick and easy way to diagnois no power at the starter once the alarm system has been disabled (removing the alarm cut out feature of the anti-theft system from the eqaution).
Sadly, the vehicle would not start. I suspect the fuel pump as I cannot hear it powering up. The fuse protecting it (13) shows as good. I wonder if (for diagnostic purposes) there's a similar trick I can perform for Relay XVII (the fuel pump) to test?
Thank you all for the valuable input!
Old 02-07-2013, 05:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Halflunar
I'm happy to report that a relay was preventing the power from getting to the starter. Switching the horn relay with the starter relay (X and XIV) for diagnostic purposes proved that the original starter relay was at fault. A very quick and easy way to diagnois no power at the starter once the alarm system has been disabled (removing the alarm cut out feature of the anti-theft system from the eqaution).
Sadly, the vehicle would not start. I suspect the fuel pump as I cannot hear it powering up. The fuse protecting it (13) shows as good. I wonder if (for diagnostic purposes) there's a similar trick I can perform for Relay XVII (the fuel pump) to test?
Thank you all for the valuable input!
More awesomeness! I wiggled the relay in its socket and WhaaLaa! I can now hear the fuel pump!
Sadly, still no start. Upon further extensive testing I'm fairly certain I have determined why. The fuel gauge says the vehicle is completely empty of fuel, lol! I'll get a five gallon jug of fuel into it and report back. Hopefull we'll have a start soon! Woohoo!
Old 02-07-2013, 05:46 PM
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XVII = fuel pump relay is not a 253. But you can jumper it to see if the pump will run. I think is is "30" to "87" of the socket. Confirm this with Search here. You may want to go so far as to fab 4 feet of lamp cord with spade connectors on one end (goes in the empty relay socket) and a simple single pole on/off switch on the other, so you can activate it from the drivers seat. Don't leave the pump on, w/o engine running. You should order a couple of the common relays as spares.
Old 02-07-2013, 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by SteveG
XVII = fuel pump relay is not a 253. But you can jumper it to see if the pump will run. I think is is "30" to "87" of the socket. Confirm this with Search here. You may want to go so far as to fab 4 feet of lamp cord with spade connectors on one end (goes in the empty relay socket) and a simple single pole on/off switch on the other, so you can activate it from the drivers seat. Don't leave the pump on, w/o engine running. You should order a couple of the common relays as spares.
It twas merely loose in the socket. I wiggled it and the pump is now coming on (or at least I can hear it). Gauge says no fuel so that's the reason for no start at this point (at least that's a reasonable guess, right). Thanks for the tip :-)
Old 02-07-2013, 06:47 PM
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BTW for future ref - the stock alarm never disables the starter on any year 928 - it always disables the ignition spark/fuel/injection components (ECU's/Pumps).

If your starter fails to turn it is not the fault of the alarm...

Alan
Old 02-07-2013, 09:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Alan
BTW for future ref - the stock alarm never disables the starter on any year 928 - it always disables the ignition spark/fuel/injection components (ECU's/Pumps).

If your starter fails to turn it is not the fault of the alarm...

Alan
Thanks Alan! That's valuable information :-)
Old 02-09-2013, 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Halflunar
Hi all!
I've recently rescued a 928 that has been sitting in outdoor storage for six years. Suffice to say, it's condition is rough at best. I've known of this car for some time and I know some of it's history.
Upon trailering it home, I discovered there is no power going to the starter when the key is turned. The dash lights come on and the headlights/turn signals, radio all work, but nothing at the starter. PO had said it sometimes had a problem like this and it was a problem with the "anti-theft".
Using this forum I disabled the factory alarm (1983 928) pulling the "Z" connector and jumping Z1 to Z6 and then disconnecting the negative battery cable. I still have dashboard power but nothing when I turn the key (other than dashboard power), which is to say the car won't start not even a click click click at the starter or any evidence the starter is attempting to engage.
You see I had thought it might be the alarm ignition cut out coming on for what I understand can be a variety of reason and so sought to di-activate the alrm for diagnostic purposes. The PO had stipulated that "often the car would not start if you unlocked the car from the drivers side door (The lock does work but if you lock it either with the key or from inside it won't activate the passenger side lock, however if you use the key on the passenger side it will lock and unlock all the door locks, locking the car from the drivers side using the key had formerly activated the ignition cut out feature of the alrm)."
So you can see where I thought it might be an alarm problem again.
I'd like to see if it can at least "start" before I embark on what will be a very long term project.
And to compound the problem, from what I'm reading 928 problems are made harder to diaganos as each year had particular differences so please if you have solutions or suggestions I hope they will be 1983 specific :-)
Thanks in advance for any input!
Addedum: It ran fine when parked and when this problem occured in the past the PO simply used the passenger side key to lock and then unlock all the door and the car would start.
Hi again all,
Happy to say we've gotten the starter to roll and I have fuel pump buzz as well as fuel in the tank now. It's trying to start but won't catch and idle. It rolls over and ignites but won't stay running for more than a second. Any thoughts on what to look at? We're making progress!
Old 02-09-2013, 10:34 PM
  #29  
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Sounds as if you are getting no injection - the engine will run for a few seconds on the cold-start injector in the front of the manifold. Back to testing relays...
Old 02-09-2013, 10:44 PM
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Originally Posted by WallyP
Sounds as if you are getting no injection - the engine will run for a few seconds on the cold-start injector in the front of the manifold. Back to testing relays...
That'd be XVI (according to the chart). Rats! No other fuses on the panel that I can just swap out to diagnos. Anyone know a test for XVI?


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