The cheap part of powder coating is the actual coating!
#16
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- 'thinning down' the PC around the bore for the flappy's shaft so that it will actually turn freely
- taking the PC off the sealing surfaces for the sensors on the water bridge and the bottom of the bridge (so that the TEMP-II doesn't lose it's mind.) And then testing the ground path with real current.
- chasing every threaded bolt hole
- roughing the mating surfaces for the hoses to the water bridge so that they'll seal
- getting 'lumps' off of the sealing surfaces for the runners and plenum side plates
And probably a few more that I've blocked from memory.
#17
And let's not forget all the other stuff:
- 'thinning down' the PC around the bore for the flappy's shaft so that it will actually turn freely
- taking the PC off the sealing surfaces for the sensors on the water bridge and the bottom of the bridge (so that the TEMP-II doesn't lose it's mind.) And then testing the ground path with real current.
- chasing every threaded bolt hole
- roughing the mating surfaces for the hoses to the water bridge so that they'll seal
- getting 'lumps' off of the sealing surfaces for the runners and plenum side plates
And probably a few more that I've blocked from memory.
- 'thinning down' the PC around the bore for the flappy's shaft so that it will actually turn freely
- taking the PC off the sealing surfaces for the sensors on the water bridge and the bottom of the bridge (so that the TEMP-II doesn't lose it's mind.) And then testing the ground path with real current.
- chasing every threaded bolt hole
- roughing the mating surfaces for the hoses to the water bridge so that they'll seal
- getting 'lumps' off of the sealing surfaces for the runners and plenum side plates
And probably a few more that I've blocked from memory.
My Mac guy had a chore to get me the right tap/die to clean up the sensor holes. You'd think that would be an easy one.
#18
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http://www.hdchasen.com/
I think you've covered it. Not to mention if the customer wants colors to the letters.
When I did the letters on my '89 it took me 10 hours of roughing, masking, and multiple coats of color and clear. Maybe there's a quicker way of doing it and not having it look like a drunk college kid on summer vacation, but I never bothered to find out.
#19
Compared to the wacky taps and dies you need for a 16v motor the 32v is easy. This was the only place I could find that had what I needed. (Weird that they are on my way home (sorta) from my real job. But they ship too...)
http://www.hdchasen.com/
Thanks for the link
That's the easy part: I hand them the intake and say "go to town."
When I did the letters on my '89 it took me 10 hours of roughing, masking, and multiple coats of color and clear. Maybe there's a quicker way of doing it and not having it look like a drunk college kid on summer vacation, but I never bothered to find out.
http://www.hdchasen.com/
Thanks for the link
That's the easy part: I hand them the intake and say "go to town."
When I did the letters on my '89 it took me 10 hours of roughing, masking, and multiple coats of color and clear. Maybe there's a quicker way of doing it and not having it look like a drunk college kid on summer vacation, but I never bothered to find out.
#20
Team Owner
Yeah,
the Chells are back.
Along with washing the intake with very hot water and simple green after PC has been done
I`ll add this to the mix
The other prime component that needs special attention is the crank,
say you send your crank to just be polished,
well it comes back all clean and shiny,
Now the fun begins,
you stick your barrel cleaning brush into the oil holes and it comes out with black paste,
this is the polishing compound,
it has neatly filled the oil holes in the crank,
and if its not removed well your gonna have a rod knock in about 10 mins after it starts.
The ideal way to clean the crank is to drill out the oil plugs on the throws then tap them to fit a screw plug.
once the plugs are removed then cleaning the traps in the crank is easy.
NOTE you may have to balance the crank after fitting the screw plugs.
NOTE spray the crank with WD 40 after the final cleaning cycle.
Otherwise use atleast 3 cans of brake cleaner to flush out the oil lines,
I use one can to flush then wash it with simple green then very hot water flushed in, then blow dry it.
Then start with another can and I repeat this 3 times till the cleaner washes clean.
Oh lets not forget about flushing out the oil ports in the heads,
and making sure the anti siphon valve seats are green loctited and staked into place
the Chells are back.
Along with washing the intake with very hot water and simple green after PC has been done
I`ll add this to the mix
The other prime component that needs special attention is the crank,
say you send your crank to just be polished,
well it comes back all clean and shiny,
Now the fun begins,
you stick your barrel cleaning brush into the oil holes and it comes out with black paste,
this is the polishing compound,
it has neatly filled the oil holes in the crank,
and if its not removed well your gonna have a rod knock in about 10 mins after it starts.
The ideal way to clean the crank is to drill out the oil plugs on the throws then tap them to fit a screw plug.
once the plugs are removed then cleaning the traps in the crank is easy.
NOTE you may have to balance the crank after fitting the screw plugs.
NOTE spray the crank with WD 40 after the final cleaning cycle.
Otherwise use atleast 3 cans of brake cleaner to flush out the oil lines,
I use one can to flush then wash it with simple green then very hot water flushed in, then blow dry it.
Then start with another can and I repeat this 3 times till the cleaner washes clean.
Oh lets not forget about flushing out the oil ports in the heads,
and making sure the anti siphon valve seats are green loctited and staked into place
#21
Nordschleife Master
I have done tons of cars now......
Yet to have one issue. I normally pressure wash the inside of the manifold with a 3500PSI washer first, then I take a pick and do a little scraping, then I pressure wash again.
I can fully clean an intake and valve cover combo in about 45 min.
I chase all threads with tap and never seize to catch all particles in there. I also have never had trouble with the Temp II sensor as the surfaces that mate to the head remain clean.
Yet to have one issue. I normally pressure wash the inside of the manifold with a 3500PSI washer first, then I take a pick and do a little scraping, then I pressure wash again.
I can fully clean an intake and valve cover combo in about 45 min.
I chase all threads with tap and never seize to catch all particles in there. I also have never had trouble with the Temp II sensor as the surfaces that mate to the head remain clean.
#22
Get Simple Green out of your inventory of cleaners Stan. It does nothing but corrode things. Get to the local Lowes and pick up a bottle of Formula 88 degreaser. Works 10x better and no after effects.
Colin, I power wash/high pressure water spray, soap with a long brush or two, spray again, force air dry and follow up with the same again.
Colin, I power wash/high pressure water spray, soap with a long brush or two, spray again, force air dry and follow up with the same again.
#23
Team Owner
I`ll look into that Sean
#24
Rennlist Member
Everyone is always talking about how "cheap" they got their powder coating done. When I do this for a customer, it is really expensive....but the expensive part isn't the actual powder coating....it's the process that we use to put it all back together that sucks up the hours.
I get to see a lot of engines that are turned into absolute scrap metal, from this process. From cheaper older engines that people are trying to make look better to a high end Devek stroker engine. Poor preparation, poor workmanship, doesn't discriminate.
Here's why. These pictures are of a manifold that just came back, from powder coating. We blew it out, first, and them started "picking" in the corners to get all the debris out. This is a picture during that "scraping process"
And I poured what I could, onto a plate, to give you an idea of how much debris gets caught up above the venturis.
Remember, this is from one manifold that was blown out throughly!
Now, how much did you pay?
I get to see a lot of engines that are turned into absolute scrap metal, from this process. From cheaper older engines that people are trying to make look better to a high end Devek stroker engine. Poor preparation, poor workmanship, doesn't discriminate.
Here's why. These pictures are of a manifold that just came back, from powder coating. We blew it out, first, and them started "picking" in the corners to get all the debris out. This is a picture during that "scraping process"
And I poured what I could, onto a plate, to give you an idea of how much debris gets caught up above the venturis.
Remember, this is from one manifold that was blown out throughly!
Now, how much did you pay?
Is that my intake?
#25
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And let's not forget all the other stuff:
- 'thinning down' the PC around the bore for the flappy's shaft so that it will actually turn freely
- taking the PC off the sealing surfaces for the sensors on the water bridge and the bottom of the bridge (so that the TEMP-II doesn't lose it's mind.) And then testing the ground path with real current.
- chasing every threaded bolt hole
- roughing the mating surfaces for the hoses to the water bridge so that they'll seal
- getting 'lumps' off of the sealing surfaces for the runners and plenum side plates
And probably a few more that I've blocked from memory.
- 'thinning down' the PC around the bore for the flappy's shaft so that it will actually turn freely
- taking the PC off the sealing surfaces for the sensors on the water bridge and the bottom of the bridge (so that the TEMP-II doesn't lose it's mind.) And then testing the ground path with real current.
- chasing every threaded bolt hole
- roughing the mating surfaces for the hoses to the water bridge so that they'll seal
- getting 'lumps' off of the sealing surfaces for the runners and plenum side plates
And probably a few more that I've blocked from memory.
This all reinforces my belief that:
- I got really lucky to have found a great PCer on my first try; and
- I was not being a jerk to give my PCer very detailed instructions on how to do masking; and
- my hours spent on research and writing up those detailed instructions for the PCer were well worth it.
Remember that thread I started "Powder coating intake/cam covers/etc. best practices (for the zillionth time!)" 2+ years ago? And the resulting guide to give to your PCer? In retrospect, it really was worth it, as I had none of these problems. Zero. And I'm hoping that anyone else who read that thread and has used that guide since then has likewise gotten good results.
I got zero material out of anything that I got back from my PCer when I tried washing it out / swabbing it / etc.
I had almost zero work to do to the parts after I got them back. IIRC, there was just one really minor area on one of the mating surfaces that I had to razor off. That's it. Less than five minutes. The PCer followed the guide really well; didn't have any coating in any of the holes. No thread chasing necessary.
And the results were pretty damn stunning, IMHO.
#27
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Yes, it is. Keep in mind that I "rejected" it the first time and they had to "blast" it a second time and re-powder coat it. It's beautiful....but had the media packed into the corners something fierce.
It's going through its' third cleaning, tomorrow morning. Another round of scraping with dental tools and then a pressure wash and blow job.
The shop mantra:
If you don't want to lick it, it's not clean enough.
I end up doing this all by hand. I'm afraid that hot water (I've got an industrial hot water parts cleaner) or chemicals will discolor/damage the powder coat color.
It's going through its' third cleaning, tomorrow morning. Another round of scraping with dental tools and then a pressure wash and blow job.
The shop mantra:
If you don't want to lick it, it's not clean enough.
I end up doing this all by hand. I'm afraid that hot water (I've got an industrial hot water parts cleaner) or chemicals will discolor/damage the powder coat color.
__________________
greg brown
714 879 9072
GregBBRD@aol.com
Semi-retired, as of Feb 1, 2023.
The days of free technical advice are over.
Free consultations will no longer be available.
Will still be in the shop, isolated and exclusively working on project cars, developmental work and products, engines and transmissions.
Have fun with your 928's people!
greg brown
714 879 9072
GregBBRD@aol.com
Semi-retired, as of Feb 1, 2023.
The days of free technical advice are over.
Free consultations will no longer be available.
Will still be in the shop, isolated and exclusively working on project cars, developmental work and products, engines and transmissions.
Have fun with your 928's people!
#28
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Thread Starter
This all reinforces my belief that:
Remember that thread I started "Powder coating intake/cam covers/etc. best practices (for the zillionth time!)" 2+ years ago? And the resulting guide to give to your PCer? In retrospect, it really was worth it, as I had none of these problems. Zero. And I'm hoping that anyone else who read that thread and has used that guide since then has likewise gotten good results.
I got zero material out of anything that I got back from my PCer when I tried washing it out / swabbing it / etc.
I had almost zero work to do to the parts after I got them back. IIRC, there was just one really minor area on one of the mating surfaces that I had to razor off. That's it. Less than five minutes. The PCer followed the guide really well; didn't have any coating in any of the holes. No thread chasing necessary.
And the results were pretty damn stunning, IMHO.
- I got really lucky to have found a great PCer on my first try; and
- I was not being a jerk to give my PCer very detailed instructions on how to do masking; and
- my hours spent on research and writing up those detailed instructions for the PCer were well worth it.
Remember that thread I started "Powder coating intake/cam covers/etc. best practices (for the zillionth time!)" 2+ years ago? And the resulting guide to give to your PCer? In retrospect, it really was worth it, as I had none of these problems. Zero. And I'm hoping that anyone else who read that thread and has used that guide since then has likewise gotten good results.
I got zero material out of anything that I got back from my PCer when I tried washing it out / swabbing it / etc.
I had almost zero work to do to the parts after I got them back. IIRC, there was just one really minor area on one of the mating surfaces that I had to razor off. That's it. Less than five minutes. The PCer followed the guide really well; didn't have any coating in any of the holes. No thread chasing necessary.
And the results were pretty damn stunning, IMHO.
And the people that run the place have taken in so many industrial fumes, over the years, that I'm happy when I get back a 928 intake manifold and not someone's Harley engine cases....
I'd do better sending a note to Santa Claus.
#29
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Jhoffman, if that's your black GTS at Greg's right now, all I can say is
That is one gorgeous, pristine car. With intake soon to match, looks like.
That is one gorgeous, pristine car. With intake soon to match, looks like.
#30
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