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Hi Ken,
unfortunaly your transmission thread is closed after MK hijacked it.
I just got a 2.73 pinion and gear set for my transmission. 250 € new from Porsche wasn t so expensive.
I´m not shure if I can do the job myself or a shop in the near. 11/30
Ken i would suggest that you replace the crank position sensor,
your only prolonging the life expectancy of a an otherwise damaged part,
and if it fails then the engine will not run.
A bad connector is only one of the ways that the part can fail,
If nothing else put in a new part and save the old one for an emergency spare you can give to someone else that has a bad CPS.
Its like a KnN filter you can hang it on your wall but you dont want it in your car.
Ken i would suggest that you replace the crank position sensor,
your only prolonging the life expectancy of a an otherwise damaged part,
and if it fails then the engine will not run.
A bad connector is only one of the ways that the part can fail,
If nothing else put in a new part and save the old one for an emergency spare you can give to someone else that has a bad CPS.
Its like a KnN filter you can hang it on your wall but you dont want it in your car.
To clarify, the CPS on which I had carefully rebuilt the connector and ended up DOA anyhow was the one that had come with the new "donor" motor. To get running I swapped in the CPS from the OLD motor, and that CPS was fairly fresh. I may have Roger include a CPS in my next order to have a spare on hand, but I'm not going to swap it in proactively. Short version: I have a fresh CPS in place now, not a rebuilt unit, but not brand new.
Hi Ken,
unfortunaly your transmission thread is closed after MK hijacked it.
I just got a 2.73 pinion and gear set for my transmission. 250 € new from Porsche wasn t so expensive.
I´m not shure if I can do the job myself or a shop in the near. 11/30
I am pleasantly surprised on that price, I had thought they were much more expensive.
Insofar as installing it yourself: I am a huge believer in doing things myself, but... after working through re-shimming the ring/diff side of that equation, and having to use makeshift tools, it took me hours and hours and hours to get to an acceptable point. Adding the pinion seems to increase complexity by an order of magnitude. At least consider leaving that to a reputable shop. In either case, keep us posted.
If my transmission has an open diff I would buy an used LSD from 928 Int. Maybe Greg can do an inspection of the LSD and Sent it to Germany.
Brand new LSD is 1900 €.
Looking good Ken, keep us posted with the Amsoil usage results.
FWIW might not matter but the crossbar bolts should be low profile,
the ones installed are closer to hitting the hood rails ,
this leaves chipped paint on the hood
Looking good Ken, keep us posted with the Amsoil usage results.
FWIW might not matter but the crossbar bolts should be low profile,
the ones installed are closer to hitting the hood rails ,
this leaves chipped paint on the hood
For whatever reason, luckily not seeing any hood contact with those, and they are switched for a good reason: As you are well aware, you need to pull that bar to remove the intake tubes and you need to remove the tubes to do ANYTHING. I got real tired of the hex bolts when I always had a normal 17mm socket queued up in my air ratchet.
Not touching an Amsoil discussion. It works for me.
Finally got the roll bar I bought from BC installed earlier this spring. I welded in an additional cross-member to allow my shoulder harness straps to exit as horizontally as possible, added floor plates for reinforcement and painted it with truck bed liner:
Camera mount shown ended up being too high, relocated later.
They are Stop-Techs. I really agonized over going with a two-piece set up in the front. There is significant weight savings. However, they cost 5x or 6x as much, and even though from then on you only replace the annulus, not the hub, it still did not meet my mental cost/benefit ratio calculation.