Help With No Start Please - Over Fueling I Think
01-29-2013, 10:27 AM
#17
Rennlist Member
Yes – That is it exactly. I also currently have the EZK, LH and Fuel Pump relays jumped (30-87) With fuel pump fuse in and I try to start it, it just cranks and acts like a flooded engine. Pull the fuse and it will start after a couple seconds of cranking and then die when it runs out of fuel.
Thanks, Aryan – Although I’m not sure how it works; for me it would be like a pig looking at a wrist watch. And God help me if it’s not in English.
I swapped in the new Temp II sensor this evening with no change – 35 degrees in the garage and have 5.4 ohms when just checking it to the block. Long day at work, I’ll pull the MAF and check the vacuum lines on the rear FPR and FPD tomorrow and check for gas smell.
Thanks, Aryan – Although I’m not sure how it works; for me it would be like a pig looking at a wrist watch. And God help me if it’s not in English.
I swapped in the new Temp II sensor this evening with no change – 35 degrees in the garage and have 5.4 ohms when just checking it to the block. Long day at work, I’ll pull the MAF and check the vacuum lines on the rear FPR and FPD tomorrow and check for gas smell.
Hmmm- if the temp2 is not the cause and what Jim understood about your description is correct, then it sounds to me as though you need to try a known functional LH if nothing else but to eliminate it from the obvious. Whereas failure of the secondary circuit board that controls the fuel pump is a well documented LH failure, it is not the only failure mode for the LH. Maybe John can chime in here. I do not really buy into the damper failure but easy to eliminate from the suspect list just by pulling the vac connector and doing the finger tip smell test.
Regards
Fred
02-05-2013, 09:22 AM
#18
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Just an update: I bought a Mityvac just to test the FPRs and FPD – they all hold vacuum fine and confirm what I’m seeing on the fuel pressure gauge that there’s no leaks. Also pulled the LH and EZK 35-pin plugs and tested the Temp II resistance – both LH and EZK at 4.9 and it’s ~35 degrees F today so that’s right.
I’m less than impressed by the cranking power I’m getting from my battery and I’ve read in searches that a lazy battery can cause this no start problem—i.e., turn but not fire. So ordered one today and pick it up tomorrow. Funny, but the kid at the counter could not believe the size of the engine. I said “dude, it was made here” and he said “yeah, but we never see them.”
Barring this, I think my EZK, LH and AFM are going to be visiting Mr. Speake very soon.
I’m less than impressed by the cranking power I’m getting from my battery and I’ve read in searches that a lazy battery can cause this no start problem—i.e., turn but not fire. So ordered one today and pick it up tomorrow. Funny, but the kid at the counter could not believe the size of the engine. I said “dude, it was made here” and he said “yeah, but we never see them.”
Barring this, I think my EZK, LH and AFM are going to be visiting Mr. Speake very soon.
02-09-2013, 10:12 AM
#19
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
NOW RUNNING! 
Put in a new battery and just for fun, replaced all the fuses. Tried to start it and acted like before. Put the foot to the floor and cranked it for a good 30-45 seconds and then BAM! she started. With my previous battery, after 30 seconds it seemed low if not almost completely drained – even after a night of re-charging. I’m guessing it was fouled plugs and the weak battery (so I could never crank long enough) combined that got me there.
Thanks everyone – I’ve learned a lot on this one. Never had clue about pin-outs, noid lights, 35-pin connectors or where those damn ground points are for the fuel injectors underneath the rear FPR/FPD.
Now, back to my planned winter schedule of replacing rotors/pads, new leather for the rear seats and removing cosmoline
Thanks again!
Put in a new battery and just for fun, replaced all the fuses. Tried to start it and acted like before. Put the foot to the floor and cranked it for a good 30-45 seconds and then BAM! she started. With my previous battery, after 30 seconds it seemed low if not almost completely drained – even after a night of re-charging. I’m guessing it was fouled plugs and the weak battery (so I could never crank long enough) combined that got me there.
Thanks everyone – I’ve learned a lot on this one. Never had clue about pin-outs, noid lights, 35-pin connectors or where those damn ground points are for the fuel injectors underneath the rear FPR/FPD.
Now, back to my planned winter schedule of replacing rotors/pads, new leather for the rear seats and removing cosmoline
Thanks again!
