B@#£$** Crank bolt 928 Auto S2 1985
#17
Nordschleife Master
First one I did I used a floor jack - it lifted the nose of the car off the ground, so I had to put it down and get a longer lever.
These days I just buzz them off with a (large) air impact gun.
These days I just buzz them off with a (large) air impact gun.
#18
Burning Brakes
Join Date: May 2011
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You're good there.... back to longer lever... If you can slide your floor jack handle over your ratchet, that is a good pull bar as well, otherwise, pick up a piece of fire sprinkler pipe at home depot, and return it once you get that puppy free... nice and ridged for this type of work...
#20
Tit flywheel lock, ensuring you have the right gear teeth profile and the securing bolts holding the lock fully penetrate the tapped holes. Use a 3/4" drive and socket with a "T" handle and 6 foot of water pipe over the "T" bar.
Set up socket fully onto the bolt head, take up the slack and turn the retaining bolt anti clockwise by positioning yourself to push upwards under the water pipe. Don't pull downwards onto yourself otherwise you could end up in hospital. Don't ask questions why, been there done that. By lifting upwards under the bar there is less chance of damage to the front fender as well.
I personally don't subscribe using the starter motor, as you are applying stresses on parts not made to do this function.
By using the above you don't have to remove the radiators to use the impact air tool, however if the radiator is removed then use a air impact gun (need good air compressor and correct impact hex socket.
Don't forget that the tightening torque is around 300 ft/lbs, IIRC, so to crack the bolt head off the seating surface it will take more torque.
When you reinstall don't forget to apply "anti-seize compound on the bolt threads, so you won't have the same problem next time. Good engineering practice dictates that when reinstalling parts, alway use anti-seize to avoid problems of diss-assembly in the future.
Tails 1990 928S4 Auto
Set up socket fully onto the bolt head, take up the slack and turn the retaining bolt anti clockwise by positioning yourself to push upwards under the water pipe. Don't pull downwards onto yourself otherwise you could end up in hospital. Don't ask questions why, been there done that. By lifting upwards under the bar there is less chance of damage to the front fender as well.
I personally don't subscribe using the starter motor, as you are applying stresses on parts not made to do this function.
By using the above you don't have to remove the radiators to use the impact air tool, however if the radiator is removed then use a air impact gun (need good air compressor and correct impact hex socket.
Don't forget that the tightening torque is around 300 ft/lbs, IIRC, so to crack the bolt head off the seating surface it will take more torque.
When you reinstall don't forget to apply "anti-seize compound on the bolt threads, so you won't have the same problem next time. Good engineering practice dictates that when reinstalling parts, alway use anti-seize to avoid problems of diss-assembly in the future.
Tails 1990 928S4 Auto
#21
Vegas, Baby!
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It's all about leverage. I just did this job in December, but I've got a lift. 3/4 breaker bar, a deep impact socket, and my fat ***, one good tug and it came loose.
#22
Mine wouldn't even budge with a 4' bar.
But I picket up a torque multiplier and took care of it with ease.
http://www.princessauto.com/pal/prod...que-Multiplier
But I picket up a torque multiplier and took care of it with ease.
http://www.princessauto.com/pal/prod...que-Multiplier
#25
Under the Lift
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Once you get the crank bolt off and reinstall it properly at 218 ft lbs, you will be surprised in the future at how easy it is to break free. I've seen some bolts that I would estimate were 800 ft lbs and required a 6-foot pipe on my breaker and a lot of grunting to break free. I was surprised the flywheel lock or flywheel teeth didn't break.
#27
Nordschleife Master
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Location: Guelph, Ontario, Canada
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Mine wouldn't even budge with a 4' bar.
But I picket up a torque multiplier and took care of it with ease.
http://www.princessauto.com/pal/prod...que-Multiplier
But I picket up a torque multiplier and took care of it with ease.
http://www.princessauto.com/pal/prod...que-Multiplier
This is a 4:1 which I have. They have a 9:1 as well....
#28
Once you get the crank bolt off and reinstall it properly at 218 ft lbs, you will be surprised in the future at how easy it is to break free. I've seen some bolts that I would estimate were 800 ft lbs and required a 6-foot pipe on my breaker and a lot of grunting to break free. I was surprised the flywheel lock or flywheel teeth didn't break.
The fact the lock tool slipped the first time has made me lose confidence.
#29
Rennlist Member
Bill - you hit the nail on the head - I'm worried the flywheel lock tool will slip or the pressure will just damage the flywheel teeth. I have used a set of slightly longer bolts on the flywheel lock as John suggested when I bought the tool and now for extra good measure (as it did already slip the first time I tried it) I have put a jack on the flywheel lock tool to stop it sliding out of position. It's since locking everything in place with the jack that I've started snapping breaker bars... anyway off to the shops this Sunday morning to try and find some heavy duty breaker bars...
The fact the lock tool slipped the first time has made me lose confidence.
The fact the lock tool slipped the first time has made me lose confidence.
Last edited by Ad0911; 01-27-2013 at 09:10 AM.