Checking endplay and Flexplate
I plan on checking my flexplate to see if there is any movement. I also plan on measuring my endplay. When I tighten it all down, where do I place the flywheel or is it called preload. Move the cranshaft full forward or the middle or all back to prvent any TBF.
Also, I noticed that my accelerator, when pressed all the way down, does not touch the step down button. Is there a way to adjust it
Thanks for all your help.
Mike P
Also, I noticed that my accelerator, when pressed all the way down, does not touch the step down button. Is there a way to adjust it
Thanks for all your help.
Mike P
I pop the crankshaft rearward then tighten coupler.
Adjust the throttle cable to ensure you are getting idle switch contact as well as WOT engagement. Then adjust the switch at the pedal.
Adjust the throttle cable to ensure you are getting idle switch contact as well as WOT engagement. Then adjust the switch at the pedal.
Hi Mike
For kickdown the throttle pedal is attached to bracket which carries a "prod" which pushes on kickdown button. It's a few years since I last adjusted this, but I recall that the throttle pedal attached to bracket via ball joint with threaded adjuster. Adjusting that will control whether/when the arm hots the button.
If you can't achieve operating position at the pedal, then you may need to take up slack at the other end of cable, at throttle quadrant on left side of manifold. Again it's just a threaded adjuster.
For kickdown the throttle pedal is attached to bracket which carries a "prod" which pushes on kickdown button. It's a few years since I last adjusted this, but I recall that the throttle pedal attached to bracket via ball joint with threaded adjuster. Adjusting that will control whether/when the arm hots the button.
If you can't achieve operating position at the pedal, then you may need to take up slack at the other end of cable, at throttle quadrant on left side of manifold. Again it's just a threaded adjuster.
Mike,
When TBF occurs it is the front face of the crank that grinds out the rear face of the thrust bearing. Like Colin, I set the clamp with the crank rear most but frankly I doubt it makes any practical difference. A typical crank floats about 0.2mm with allowable max 0.4mm. My experience suggests that 3mm pre-load will not cause TBF and having seen several motors that have failed I would guesstimate that the clamp had floated by over 5mm and quite possibly around 1cm given the chronic distortion on the flex plate I have seen. Quite simply at some point the flex plate ceases to flex and the load increases dramatically causing heat build up that ultimatly melts the white metal and wipes the bearing. When it cools it seizes and/or cuases the thrust bearing shells to spind in their housing and your motor is toast.
You should measure the crank end float and you do not need to undo the clamp to do this. You need a dial gauge and simply rock the crank back and forward with a pry bar on the flywheel.
When TBF occurs it is the front face of the crank that grinds out the rear face of the thrust bearing. Like Colin, I set the clamp with the crank rear most but frankly I doubt it makes any practical difference. A typical crank floats about 0.2mm with allowable max 0.4mm. My experience suggests that 3mm pre-load will not cause TBF and having seen several motors that have failed I would guesstimate that the clamp had floated by over 5mm and quite possibly around 1cm given the chronic distortion on the flex plate I have seen. Quite simply at some point the flex plate ceases to flex and the load increases dramatically causing heat build up that ultimatly melts the white metal and wipes the bearing. When it cools it seizes and/or cuases the thrust bearing shells to spind in their housing and your motor is toast.
You should measure the crank end float and you do not need to undo the clamp to do this. You need a dial gauge and simply rock the crank back and forward with a pry bar on the flywheel.




