outbackgeorgia

I just dropped the plastic cover under the steering wheel , removed two screws and replaced the switch. Easy, no console removal. You are just replacing the electrical switch part, not the whole assembly. Once the electrical plug is off, remove the two screws, a little tedious, but easy.
You may be looking for a big box for the switch, it is only about a 2" square.

outbackgeorgia

The meter should be in the DC Volts selection, not AC which is a wavy line on some meters.

Dave

medipedicman

Thanks Dave. Can you describe "once the electrical plug is off"?

Does this pull off or screw off?

outbackgeorgia

The connector with all the wires just pulls off the switch, it is tight. Might need some help, be sure to disconnect battery if you have to pry a little to help it off. There 2 small screws, straight blade screwdriver if I recall, small. Remove them and the electrical part of the switch come right off.

outbackgeorgia

Brian,
You may have to remove the steering wheel, turn signal switch, and loosen the pod for access. I did not remove the pod or console, just need a small screwdriver with a short handle!
Dave

AirtekHVAC

Brian...I feel your ignition pain....I used a ratcheting mini-90deg wrench with a screwdriver tip to remove mine. Removed the steering wheel, turn signal, and pod...you should not need to remove the console.

medipedicman

Thanks guys. Slightly more encouraged today. I was able to remove the electrical connector from the Euro this morning. It really did just slide right off. I am still having clearance issues accessing the two screws that hold the pc in. It seems like the issue reaching them from underneath is the wing of the console and the metal portion of the dash that runs under the steering column.
With the wheel and the pod removed are you able to access the screws from the top while sitting in the drivers seat??

medipedicman

The ignition switch has been switched and no change. Please see video and offer any help you can.

Thank you

]

outbackgeorgia

Back to post 216.
Remove the small black/yellow wire from the starter post 16. Try starting, then shutting off.
If it shuts off, it is the starter internal switch.
If no change, there is a short to this wire, probably at the 14 pin connector above the jump post. You did not report on the condition of this critical connector.
Post a photo of the wires going into this connector after sliding off the cap. Don't let the pins come out of the housing!!!
Dave

Mrmerlin

Brian Try this, remove the rear defroster relay from the CE panel. then try the key.
NOTE The relay has probably welded closed.


This is a well know issue that while running the driver will actuate the rear window defroster and then try to shut the engine off,
the engine will keep running. the RWD relay stays powered and also keeps power going to the engine

DO NOT shut off the car by cutting off the battery, pull the fuel pump fuse.

NOTE once the engine stops then disconnect the battery,
if this advice is not followed, THEN You can damage the diodes in the alternator and or damage the regulator

Go through the fuse panel and verify you have the correct relays in the correct slots ,
also make sure the fuse slots that should be empty are infact empty.

NOTE adding fuses to all of the slots can back carry voltage to other systems.

As someone else has suggested inspect the 14 pin connector wires at the hot post for shedding insulation

Mrmerlin

in regards to mating the trans to the TT this should also be observed,

The stub shaft needs to be measured for proper depth into the pilot bearing,
this can only be done once the rear pinch bolt has been installed into the trans,
and the drive shaft is also in its correct position
IOW you dont want the stub shaft to be pushed so far forward thats it is bottoming on the pilot bearing ,
the stub shaft should be pulled back about 3 to 4 MM from bottoming it on the pilot bearing.

medipedicman

Thank you Dave. I will remove to wire from the starter tonight when I get home from work. I will post a pic of the 14 pin connector.

Thank you Stan for taking a look at this for me. I am very interested in the rear defrost and all of the other switches. I will pull the relay as suggested. Since reinstalling the newly recovered pod all of the ***** seem very tight. The ones that only require a push to activate (rear defrost,fog lights) are difficult to engage. The rear defrost switch may have been installed incorrectly causing whatever havoc in the relay.

Thanks for the advice about the stub shaft and the pilot bearing. How do you measure such a thing? I used the clamp bolt and window as a way of deciding how far forward to move the whole drive shaft. As soon as the bolt was accessible, I stopped moving the shaft.

Thank you again for all of your help.

medipedicman

I feel like a pit crew this morning. I had about 20 extra minutes so I ran downstairs to follow up on the suggestions given.

Dave:



I unhooked the black and yellow wire and saw no difference when I engaged the battery. I hooked it back up and lowered the car.

Stan:
This is what the electrical panel looks like as is.



After removing the rear defrost I engaged the battery and noticed no difference in the lights that come on immediately.

While I did not attempt to crank the car this morning, when the battery is engaged the parking lights come on, the red warning push button comes on and one of the lights in the cluster. This is with the keys in my pocket.

Thanks again for all of your time in helping me trouble shoot this.

Mrmerlin

OK your going to have to go through the CE panel from a quick look you may have the wrong relays installed in the wrong slots .

NOTE this is an eyes on it deal, so you will have to scrutinize what you have with a fuse relay chart and the relay part numbers and the correct relay locations. do the same with the fuses

Please take some better pictures of the starter connections,
I would say the starter being miswired isnt your problem.

Please list all of the things you have done with the electrical system IE swapping parts possibly did you swap in a Euro CE panel into a USA car or some other such things?

medipedicman

Thanks Stan.
I have just looked up and saved the three pages of the PET that have the part numbers per relay. The fuse panel and relays are all the same as when I purchased the car 4 years ago. It was driven for 8-9 months by my son and then parked for the new interior. I do not recall messing with the CE panel at all after cleaning the grounds behind it when I first accepted delivery.

Before swapping the transmission I drove the car locally, a couple of miles at a time and never had any issues with constant running. Starts and stops at the parts store, the grocery store, gas station and the like.

Something "going bad", like the ignition switch made perfect sense.

We thought starter or starter wiring because that was removed during the trans swap. I will take a better picture of the starter and the wiring to see if maybe I have not hooked it back up properly.

I am in the office this morning and then will be traveling all day. I might have an hour or so tonight and then several hours tomorrow morning.

Thanks again