destructo_low

It was incredibly tricky to fit this large alternator in the small space provided. I had to avoid the power steering pump, frame rail, the oil pan where the belt gets very close, and the oil filter to the rear, but it fits. I probably didn't have to go this overkill, but it was only $120.00 off eBay.

I didn't change a single thing on the engine. The stock tension adjustment is used as well as the hardware.

Required is one half inch nut and bolt, a laser cut bracket, four turned spacers/ bosses, a new pulley, and a 39" belt.

I had mine cut out of plain carbon steel, but I think aluminum might be able to hold up. I did add some weight, but I'll add horsepower later to cover it. The only caveat I see is that if I bash the alternator on the ground hard enough to displace the alternator, the rear post where the positive cable hooks will surely hit the oil filter and short out, but I shouldn't be bashing my alternator in the first place.

This set up should fit any J180 long hinge mount alternator. The only difference will be the offset from the front face of the mounting ears to the face which the back of the pulley contacts.

The alternator puts out 160 amps. I was creating 13 volts at idle, and that is with a large 3" semi pulley, but that pulley will keep the alternator in the acceptable rpm range even at full throttle, and it fits the 7/8" shaft.

I don't have any brackets currently, but if there is interest, please let me know.

longleader

Great job, looks like it fits perfect.

Flint Ironstag

I'm pretty ignorant about car electrical systems. Why go this route vs. a stock alternator? Thanks in advance for the education.

destructo_low

I'm upgrading to 100w headlights, and being time for a new alternator, I just felt like it. The stock alternator probably would have been fine, but I just enjoy designing and inventing.

James Bailey

Total waste running more than is needed bigger is NOT better just heavier and sucks more power......personally I downgraded to a very lightweight very cheap alternator Sure it discharges at idle but who cares the battery never goes flat...so the +++++ outweigh the -- - - - .

Imo000

Very niiiice!

danglerb

More options is good.

For most I am guessing the CS130 Delco is plenty?

Fogey1

<MORE>, please. Details on what you're running, where you got it and any mods that were necessary.

will

Alan

Many higher max output alternators actually generate less power than the stock alt. at low RPMs.

Maybe this config is OK - but you won't really know until you reach maximum ambient temperature (summer) and max engine heating (stop & go traffic after a high speed run).

This will be the real test and is where the stock alternator struggles with normal loads

Looks like based on that pulley ratio you will be spinning slower than stock...?

Alan

WallyP

The real test is a very hot rainy night, with AC, both blowers on full speed, full speed engine fans, full lights, and max volume on the stereo system all eating amps from the very hot alternator as you sit idling in heavy traffic.

Jim Devine

I think this one also has good potential-
Bosch part # al9960lh- new not reman
output- 14v - 100 amps @ 2000 (alt not crank) rpm
14v - 160 amps @ 6000 " " " "

designed for high temp hd use

http://rb-kwin.bosch.com/en/automoti...tors/160a.html

http://rb-kwin.bosch.com/pool/usa/pd...tput_Curve.pdf

http://rb-kwin.bosch.com/pool/usa/pd...nators_FAQ.pdf

http://www.dieselusa.com/productinfo...lternators.pdf

Jim Devine

In the Delco line the 28si has an interesting feature- remote sense
a wire that senses battery voltage & compensates. Does the 24si do this?
Same j180 mounting pattern. Not sure on physical size / fit

http://www.delcoremy.com/Documents/B...-Brochure.aspx

Looks like there are good alternatives available with better low end output than the ones the cars came with.
Nice installation on your car!

17prospective buyer

^^^

Uhh, the voltage regulator maintains the exciter current to compensate for voltage... no? How is a voltage sensing "wire" any different?

Alan

Since it remote senses at the battery - it compensates for wiring voltage losses.
On a 928 that is not a big deal and wouldn't help the problems we have much.

A remote (cooler) voltage regulator makes more sense... since heat effects - particularly the over aggresive heat compensation designed to protect a hot battery (that in a 928 doesn't even live in the same ZIP code as the alternator) is the real problem we have...

A slightly better pulley ratio would also help - at risk of some max rpm overstress on the alternator... YMMV

Alan

Lorenfb

"I'm upgrading to 100w headlights"

That's only about 16 more amps (assuming 2 100W buibs).
And all that effort for 16 more amps? The stock Bosch
should easily handle that.