Correct, the toothed steel ring towards the back of the hub is part of the ABS when-speed sensor. And yes, the toothed ring gets read by the sensor that sticks through the backing plate. The body of the sensor is behind the backing plate, and it is a magnetic sensor that works on the same principle as the crank-position sensor-- the sensor contains a magnet and a magnetic-field sensor and sends a signal every time a bit of steel goes flying past.

I don't think paint would hurt it, but I agree that painting the hubs is not a good idea for heat reasons. Use a wire brush and clean the ring teeth (mostly for cosmetic reasons, debris doesn't matter unless it is steel/magnetic), and check the sensor wiring-- most likely the wiring or connector is damaged somewhere behind the dust-shield.

There are pic's and more info in the WSM, pg 45-8 to 45-11.

 

Thank you Jim,

I am getting ready to take it for another test drive.

When I pressed the brakes after renewing rotors and pads the pedal went to the floor atleast 3 times before full pedal. Could this effect my problem? I will start with the sensors once I eliminate these thoughts if light still comes on and report back.

 

That certainly does indicate a sensor or sensor connection problem..... although IIRC the sensors are only grounded at the ECU.

 

I am testing the sensors next.
Thanks again for the help !
Thomas

 

All wheel sensors checked out the same.
I am thinking I can put the car on lift and run it in drive. If the ABS light stays off will this tell me my problem is in the front?

Thomas

 

If the pedal went to the floor 3 times before the full pressure pedal feeling... have you checked/topped off your fluid? Or, air in the ABS system from not fully bleeding the fluid?

 

On a streeg car, the paint will have ZERO effect.

 

Fluid topped off, Anti lock light came on as soon as I test drove again. It must be in the front harness area since it did not come on with just rear wheels spinning on lift. Do I need to disconnect the ground to reset?
Thomas

 

Maybe disconnect/reconnect the battery itself?

 

FWIW the sensors are grounded at each wheel, look for the thick brown wire coming out of the sensor.
Did you bleed the brakes?
Have you replaced the rear bias valve? ( this is screwed into the ABS unit and usually gets filled with crud and corrosion)
NOTE this part should be replaced when you swap out the MC.

Is the MC original or older than 10 years?
If so then a new MC may be in your future as its got internal bore corrosion, thus a full stroke has damaged the seals.
You will have other issues with the pedal being low or slowly going down with constant pressure applied if indeed the seals have been damaged.

I suggest to use ATE super Blue fluid.

The ABS system is a 3 part system
IE the two front wheels are separate systems ,
and the rear wheels are tied into the same system.
If the ABS light comes on when the car is started then the ABS relay is usually bad,
if it comes on after the car goes over 5mph then its likely a sensor connection or bad sensor

 

Stan,
I have not bleed the brakes since flushing with ATE blue 1 year ago.
I have not replaced the bias valve but will order one now.
MC 4 years old

I replaced front and rear wheel bearings,rotors,pads and shocks. Took it for its first test drive last night and now this new abs problem. Today I checked all the barrels and tested sensors. I also checked the fuse.
Should I bleed the brakes for the hell of it or wait till I change the bias valve?

Thanks
Thomas

 

swap out the bias valve first,
then bleed.
Your MC may be OK,

As always since you didnt have this issue before you did work on the car,
you have disturbed something,
so carefully rechecking your work is in order

 

As I ran the process of replacing my rear wheel bearings through my mind all night I came up with the following.
I neglected to pull the sensors on the rear which makes me think I damaged one or both while pressing in the hubs. Is this a possibility even though while on the lift with rear wheels spinning in drive the ABS did not come on. Only comes on when test driving.
Thomas

 

The symptoms you describe point to problems at the rear sensors. They aren't seeing the rear wheels moving on the lift, so no warning. When you drive, the controller sees the front wheels turning, and since it can't see the rears turning it sets the light.

In the barrel connectors there are three places to plug things in. One for pad sensor, one for wheel sensor, one no pins. Double check that you aren't connected to the no-pins hole, and verify with wire colors that you have the pad and wheel sensors in the correct spots. Trace wire colors to be sure. It's easy to make a mistake here. The wheel sensor impedance may be low enough to satisfy the pad sensor circuitry. But the pad sensors are too far from the toothed ring to read it...

Thoughts on terminology: hub has wheel studs pressed in. Carrier or upright has a wheel bearing pressed in. Stub axle holds them together.

 

Since you had the rear up in the air and in gear AND the ABS didn't come on. My bet is that the two rear sensors are either not working or the wiring on both rears is cut somewhere.