MGW-Fla

Yes, with the steel plate you'd use more, but shorter & smaller diameter anchors to anchor the plate to the floor since it would be spread out over a larger area.

One of the considerations I have regarding the cutting and re-pouring of a thicker slab pad is the mess to be dealt with in my garage.

I also think that cutting to recess the plate would be more ideal to keep it out of sight/mind. But to cut the slab to the depth seems would be meticulous work. And then to have the plate anchored to only 2 1/2" of concrete compounds the main concern I have to begin with, which is the stability or integrity of the concrete. Maybe if you were cutting & re-pouring a thicker slab, a plate could be inset before it cures. But that is a bit redundant, the cost would double for both, and would likely be overkill. Course overkill is better than being killed cause your car fell on ya!

Kevin in Atlanta

I want to add this to collective wisdom for MaxJax installers. While the instructions suggest using their big washers in the final step of tightening the Wed-Jit anchors I found they tended to cup, remove material from the top of the concrete hole and add significantly to the force required. This in turn makes it very hard to pull the anchor to the proper height.

After struggling with the first two I used a thick washer from the rear axle of a 928 I am parting out. Two things happened. One, the anchor process moved much faster because I was not turning the thin washers into the floor and there was no cupping. Much less effort was required to pull the anchor. It could then be a one man operation.

dr bob

Replace the thin washers with machine washers and use them with the bolts to bolt the lift down later. FWIW, 5/8" is the standard size for anchor bolts use to bolt the house to a foundation. Cruise the home depot concrete section for the square washers used for that, and never bend one. Also, the threaded rod used to set the Wedjit anchors goes all the way down into the insert. Lubricate the threads where the nut goes before using the nut to draw the anchor up and set the cinch ring.

And after rereading the options on new concrete vs. plate vs. Inlaying a plate in existing concrete, my vote goes immediately to the $300 for the concrete. Saw out the section of the old, drill and set rebar into the surrounding concrete, and place new concrete thick enough and large enough to hold the columns. Wet-saw the old stuff and it should come without a huge mess.

sendarius

When I had mine done, the team used a water-cooled, diamond-bladed, petrol-powered masonry saw WITH A CONTINUOUSLY-RUNNING WET&DRY VAC.

Two man job, but it only took 15 minutes , and left almost no mess.

The concrete was pumped in (Shot-crete?), so there weren't any wheelbarrow marks, nor any concrete spillage either.

Kevin in Atlanta

I will getting the slab cut in the near future.

MGW-Fla

hmmmmm wonder what it'd cost to get those guys shipped up here to the States?? I did realize about using a wet saw to reduce the mess, didn't know there was a vacuum option. If I could get someone to do the job with the concrete for $300 to remove & reinstall, that's a bargain. I'll have to start getting some quotes. To do it myself, even with the help of my CGC friend, would have taken some time. Still waiting to hear back from the CGC's engineer buddy recommendations regarding the plate option too.

Kevin in Atlanta

Concrete guy used epoxy yesterday. Today I have a working garage.

MGW-Fla

How about a pic or two showing the new slab pad & install of the posts up close? Thx!

Kevin in Atlanta

No slab pad yet.

We used two part epoxy on the 3 1/2 inch thick section of the floor. Basically we dipped the anchors in the epoxy and hammered into the slab. We are going to monitor it to see if we develop any cracks. Then I will have to pour that small footing.

MGW-Fla

So you did this yourself? Or was that what the concrete guy charged you the $300 for?
And did you use the WejIt POWER-Sert Epoxy Anchors #PS2-58 in 7/8 x 5 3/4" size? Or if not what size?

Kevin in Atlanta

WejIt POWER-Sert Epoxy Anchors #PS2-58 in 7/8 x 5 3/4" size is it - did it myself - concrete guy acted as my consultant cost me nothing - unless the concrete surrounding holes shows cracks and then I get my wallet out.

Very pleased with results so far. No indications of issues.

dr bob

Those cracks would scare me, specially in a known-thin pad. Unfortunately, failure of the anchors, concrete, or epoxy will be really quick once it starts. Hint: no failure will happen except when there's weight on the lift. No telling whether you'll be underneath at the time. Edsel Murphy has an easy algorithm that guides failure conditions, timing, and results. None are good.

Kevin in Atlanta

But there are no cracks. I am a very cautious person. Thank you for you concern. I am watching it.

MGW-Fla

Cool, hope that is successful as that is what I'd prefer to do as well. Please keep us posted. As I said previously, Gabe at GES said those anchors would work as long as at least 2 nodules were in the concrete, so I got a set from him. Once I got them I measured. Assuming the bottom of the main shank counts as a nodule, & it looks to me like the bottom edge of the concrete(3 1/2") would be between the 2nd & 3rd nodules. With the length of the anchor, that leaves three more nodules beneath the concrete. And that is with the hope that none of the holes cone underneath when drilled & you lose that contact & the epoxy. IIRC He said one of these anchors per side would have the holding strength enough to equal all five of the ones they send with the lift. Course my concern is the concrete not the anchors. btw, what bit did you use to drill the concrete?

Kevin in Atlanta

We just moved the GT to the MaxJax for parting out. Everything looks good. I am reasonably confident the foundation will hold. But I will be doing spot checks on a regular basis.