Rob Edwards

Mine came with the wejit "power drop" anchors as well, I spent just enough time on Garage journal to be paranoid about them and ended up buying a set of their power-sert anchors that require being epoxied in place.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=111658

Kit from GES USA:

http://www.gesusa.com/Epoxy-Grip-Anc...t-p/100121.htm


But in the end Dr. Bob talked me down, and we ended up just using the power drops as supplied with the lift. Worked out fine, though I will say that the biggest factor in installing the anchors is to ensure you've got a good hammer drill.

If anyone wants to do the unlikely-to-be-needed "upgrade" to the power-serts, holler and I'll sell a set of 10 plus 2 tubes of epoxy for $120 shipped.


FWIW, if anyone ends up doing a maxjax install, and is paranoid about running into rebar in their slab (we got 3" into the 10th and final hole and hit rebar, ugh....), I have a Bosch 7/8" diameter rebar cutting bit with the SDS-Plus form factor end on it. Holler and I'll mail it out so you can ensure you don't need it.

Power drops:



Power-serts:



Part number comparison:

MGW-Fla

Has anyone mounted theirs on a 3 1/2" slab? The Wejit anchors are shown to have a 4" minimum slab thickness as required for the anchors supplied by GES. But here in NE Fla, it's standard for a residential garage slab to be poured with a 3 1/2" thickness(width of the 2"x4" boards used as forms). That's what all of my test holes proved to be the case with my garage slab. PSI strength shouldn't be an issue, just the matter of the slab being thick enough for the anchors to effectively work.

I am finally getting around to installing my lift & I am awaiting a set of the Wejit epoxy anchors from Gabe at GES just to be sure. The ones GES has available are the 5" length, but was told only two of the "nodules" on the anchor need to be within the concrete to result in their desired 4x required strength. The epoxy anchors have a much higher strength than the ones supplied with the MaxJax. Wejit was bought by another company this year with some apparent changes. GES is working on them getting a 3" epoxy anchor available.

Tony

My neighbor down the street worked for the builder who did the houses in our development. Next time I see him Im going to ask about the slab thickness.

Thanks for the info on the inserts. I use a similar thing for my pool fence but they were "studs" ..that's why I was asking. I had no idea that a similar product was available that gave you a "threaded hole in the ground". When I removed my pool fence a few years ago I ended up cutting the tops of all the studs with a dremel and then grinding them down and patching the cool decking....Wish I would have known about these!

sendarius

I paid a crew to cut the (too thin @ 3", and crappy concrete) floor in my workshop, and insert a 2' x 2' x 10' reinforced high-strength concrete block into it.

The block is pinned laterally to the original floor, has 6' of 3" x 3" angle driven into the ground in four places and embedded in the concrete, while the columns sit towards each end. That sucker will NEVER move.

I had them do it in two places, and I can move the MaxJax lift between the two spots in about 15 minutes.

Being concerned about the floor strength & the anchors holding, I found it cheap peace of mind.

AO

You can try it, and it might be okay as long as you don't have any stress relief cuts in the slab near where you are installing the lift. But I would plan on getting one big or two small footings poured and just be done with it. My slab was just 4" but becasue I had to install it near the relief cuts in the slab, the slab cracked and I ended up having to install one giant footing 2x2x13 that goes the full width of the bay.

dr bob

2' x 2' x 10' concrete block is a HUGE amount of concrete to add under the lift. The supplied anchors will fail long before the block will move.

For my new garage, I had the contractor scrape out an extra few inches in the area under and between the columns. About 4' x 12' pad is now 8" (inches) thick. My current floor has a similar extra pad thickness, mostly because I was concerned about the ground moving when I happened to be under the car. Not an issue at the new location. The supplied anchors will fail long before the floor will move.

Andy Kay

RedRaider1 - I like it! Is this a "standard height" garage?

TheoJ

I have my MaxJax for some years now. Perfect choice to be honest.
Sometimes I remove the arms to make room, but the columns basically stay in place. I do not like the idea of the anchors failing to hold after numerous fitting and removing of the bolts.

regards
Theo Jenniskens
1992 928 GTS, the Netherlands

depami

This!!!

I am not willing to cut up my floor to increase thickness.

Will 3 1/2" suffice or should I be looking at 4 post?

77tony

Herman's MaxJax is nice, but if you have the ceiling height, 4 post lifts do have there advantages. Easy drive on without having to crawl under the car to set the arms, they are inherently safer, drip trays came with for the option of storing a car underneath, H.D. steel tray that slides front to back if using a jack to prop up engine, trans, etc. Can also jack up any corner with an inexpensive bottle jack to work on suspension, etc. Also like the fact that ride height, camber and alignment can be done with all four wheels down.02 T

depami

108" ceiling height so I would not get full benefit of 4 post. Standing to work would not be possible and stacked storage would be unlikely.

That said, MaxJax may make more sense due to "portability" for storing out of the way when not in use.

For now, Liftbars are a tolerable compromise. Still looking for a used set for early cars.

77tony

If your looking for true portability, this might be the way to go. There approx $ 2000 and no need to anchor to the floor. IIRC, Joe (polecat) has one like this. T

depami

Yes, I've considered those. But, again, given my overhead limitations, I would not be able to stand upright under the vehicle and the "feet" would be in the way of a rolling chair. It would be good for outdoor use but the MaxJax or a 4 post would be more suitable for low overhead indoor use.

the flyin' scotsman

I have the same limitations hence the the Majax solution.

My buddy has 2 4 post lifts in his oversize double garage with cathederal ceilings and its tight.

Kevin in Atlanta

I found this write up and wanted it to be here for other MaxJax would be installers:

After the MaxJax was assigned to Dannmar, I have not been as much involved. But I have installed a few of these so I'll be glad to share my own experience. My original cart design was a fully assembled welded unit so not too familiar with the revised unassembled design which was implemented in order to make a more compact shipping bundle for retail stores.

First, I am a firm believer of epoxy. On most of the MaxJax lifts I have installed, I filled the 7/8” hole with two-part anchor epoxy then installed as per the instructions. It can get messy, but in my years of installing lifts, it has always proved beneficial. To me, it just adds an extra level of assurance. However, if installed properly, and when lifting max 6,000 pounds, (which in the two-post world is very minor), and with shorter than usual lifting arms, the floor loading from a MaxJax is a lot less than typical two-posts. So, the PD58 anchors minus the epoxy are more than capable when installed as per instruction. You can find answers to all of your uneasy concerns here.

If you do choose to use epoxy, make sure you clean the dust out of the holes good prior. Fill the hole about two-thirds or too much epoxy will ooze out of the hole once the anchor is tapped in. This creates a mess which needs to be cleaned up quickly before the epoxy hardens. Make sure to put grease inside the anchor in the event epoxy finds its way onto the threads. The grease prevents the epoxy from polluting the threads and it also helps when remove the sacrificial “pounding in and setting bolt” after the anchors are installed.

The most important thing to focus on is locating and drilling the holes exactly where they need to be. If when drilling, the bit initially walks to the left slightly on some of the holes, then walks to the right on others, the accumulated spacing may be just enough to make the bolts not fit clear through the base plate of the lift once installation is complete. Take your time. Drill pilot holes first only after double checking. Do your best to make sure the pilot drill stays exactly on your mark. And when drawing your marks, be very careful to locate the exact pinpoint center of the base plate holes.

NOTE: The instructions say to drill the first hole, position the column in place, install an anchor, secure the column, then mark the second hole using the base plate as a guide. Drill second hole, position the column in place, install an anchor, secure the column, then mark the third hole using the base plate as a guide - repeat steps etc. Although this seems like a redundant process, it is a cautious way to insure the holes are exactly where they need to be. If however you opt to drill first, install later, be sure to get your marks dead nuts.

The second most important thing to remember is drill bit - 7/8” is 7/8”. Don’t use a close enough metric bit or, just as bad, an under size or worn bit. Worn drill bits will make your install a nightmare. If you find yourself using a sledge hammer to pound in the anchors, the bit was worn, too small at the tip, or just plain the wrong size. Underside and top spalling will occur if a sledge hammer is used. Use a rotary hammer drill, not a regular Dewalt with a concrete bit - you’ll be drilling long before the cows come home. When drilling, make sure you hold the drill perfectly vertical. Although it’s impossible to be perfect, pay attention and do your best.

After the holes are drilled, get a vacuum cleaner and clean all the dust out of the holes and around the work area. If using epoxy, I recommend a screwdriver and wet rag to plunge the holes once or twice. Let the holes dry thoroughly before proceeding and it may even help to blow dry after.

Install the 5/8” spacing nut onto the sacrificial bolt. Before proceeding, be sure to install the bolt all the way until it touches the inside bottom of the anchor. This way the threads won’t take all the punishment of the pounding and make removing the sacrificial bolts difficult. Once the bolt is making contact with the inside bottom of the anchor, position the spacing nut 5/8” away from the anchor. Pound in each anchor until the top of the anchor is approximately 5/8” below the surface of the concrete. Repeat steps. If using epoxy, install one at a time. Do not pour epoxy in all of the holes at once.

After the anchors are installed, install a flat washer, then start tightening the 5/8” spacing nut to set the anchors. Depending on the condition or hardness of your concrete, the final size of the finished hole, the aggregate and other conditions, some of your anchors may set higher than others. However, they should pull up at least 3/8” – ½”. It should take a little elbow grease to set them properly. If you find it super easy to pull them up, and/or they start protruding from the top of the hole, you may have suspect concrete or an oversized hole. I would investigate the cause before proceeding. If using epoxy, let the epoxy dry fully before using the lift. After the initial use with car, the anchors may tend to creep up slightly further as the bolts make their final set - this is normal.

NOTE: Some of you will find the top of the concrete spalled or cracked away a little around the hole during installation. Brand new, sharp drill bits will minimize this. If, after the install is complete, you would like to pretty up the floor around the holes, the best thing to use is an epoxy rather the Quikrete. Quikrete or concrete patch is easier to use, but it’s brittle and will eventually crack away due to stress and strain on the concrete during lift use. An epoxy or Bondo type fill is flexible and will make a better patch around the anchor holes. You can even add paint or color to the epoxy to better match your floor.


Jeff
BendPak