I need to separate the tie rod end at the end of the rack. Using a 'pickle' fork is useless. I sprayed PB blaster and have tried to 'persuade' the tie rod end to no avail. Can somebody point me to a tool that will do the job?

-Kevin

 

...oops

 

Leave the nut loose and then hit the with two sledge type hammers and it should pop out. There is a U shaped tool with a bolt in the middle that can be used to get the tie rid out also. This tool comes in various widths.
Don't have a picture handy.

 

I am looking for the 'U' shaped tool. There is 3/4" one at Harbor Freight for 19.99.

Ball Joint Separator

 

The fingers on that H-F tool look thin enough to get between the boot and the steering arm. Before you buy it try the two-hammers-one-loose-nut method.

 

Those pincer tools work well - and yes they're thin enough to fit on without damaging the boot. Although I broke the fingers off two of them on my first 928 tie-rod disassembly

The trick I use now is to use that tool to load up the joint, then tap the knuckle with a pair of hammers. Works easily on and off the car (and also on the lower control arm ball joints too), and is much less destructive than a pickle fork.

 

I need a help visualizing of the two hammers approach.

 

 

Big help - I'll try that.

 

I used that tool and loaded it then tapped lightly and it popped loose fine. Leave the nut on loose.

 

Heat from a MAPP Gas torch or sledge, that tool, or the easiest (unsafe though) loosen the nut a little and drive around to knock it out if you have exhausted all others.

 

I wouldn't use a torch unless you don't care about the tie rod and are going to replace it anyway.

 

The "two-hammer" method that I have always used appears to be easier and safer.

I loosen the nut, then hold the largest chunk of steel that I can get in place against one side of the steering arm or spindle where the tapered bolt goes thru. In my case, this is usually a six-pound sledge hammer.

Using the largest hammer that I can swing in the limited area, I hit the other side of the steering arm or spindle directly opposite the steel chunk as hard as I can. This distorts the steering arm or spindle just enough that the tapered bolt will be spit out.

The risks involved include:
- The "anvil" will rebound to some degree. If you are careless in the way that you are holding it, you can mash the devil out of your hand or fingers.
- You can miss the steering arm or spindle and hit the ball joint or tie rod end, damaging it. Just make sure that your hammer swing path is clear.

This method eliminates the precise timing required to make two hammers meet at exactly the same instant. It also eliminates half the hammer swings - it is much easier to hit one target than to perfectly coordinate two swings on two targets.

 

Well, all I can say is wow. Tried all the above except heat and the tie rod end will not separate. This is the first time I have not been able to do something on a 928.

 

The harbor freight tool pictured above is what I have and it works great. It will break the ball joints on my 4wd chevy truck. I assure you, those are much sturdier than the tie rods on a 928.