My '79 repaint and other related projects
#16
Rennlist Member
Looking good. Stan K. is correct that the bumpers, drip moldings, and door trim need to be removed for a durable finish. I am sure that is in the plans anyway as your bumper beadings are now primed and will definitely need replacing now. Encourage caution when removing the door trim and drip moldings. The drip moldings don't come off too easily without ruining; they bend if you look at them too hard. The door trim is even harder to get off, but not as critical as you will probably want to replace anyway. There is a section of the door trim that does a 120 degree turn up by the side view mirror. It is riveted on. You need an 1/8" drill bit to drill out the rivet. Good luck.
#17
Drifting
Thread Starter
The question of rear quarter window moldings has come up.
Mine are in good shape but they anodizing has faded, like usual. I know they can be anodized again at great expense, but Steve tells me that he thinks later models used plastic ones that look the same but don't fade.
I see 928 Int. has moldings in stock, I assume they are new because they don't say used, but I don't know if they are metal or plastic.
Recommendations and info?
Mine are in good shape but they anodizing has faded, like usual. I know they can be anodized again at great expense, but Steve tells me that he thinks later models used plastic ones that look the same but don't fade.
I see 928 Int. has moldings in stock, I assume they are new because they don't say used, but I don't know if they are metal or plastic.
Recommendations and info?
#19
Cottage Industry Sponsor
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Early quarter window trim is anodized aluminum, later ones are plastic. I have plastic - the window tinters managed to melt them when they reinstalled them after the tinting, and they had to be replaced...
Looking at your pictures, I'm a bit confused about what they are painting. It looks like there is filler over the exhaust, the bumper beading, and a few other places where I would not expect it.
Leaving the antenna is an invitation for chipping around it; same with door lock surrounds, the hopefully masked-off bumper beading, etc. I had two cars in my life where parts were repainted that way, and in both cases the chipping occurred and looked increasingly ugly.
Lastly, I don't think you can paint the body and bumpers at the same time, as the bumpers would require some sort of softener in the paint. I'm not up-to-date on these requirements, but you should make sure you won't end-up with cracked paint on your bumpers shortly after the job was finished.
Leaving the door handles on will result in some rough texture of paint in the creases, and dirt will collect there easily. You may have other places where this will happen, e.g. behind the panel gaps (doors, hatch, hood). It'll be nice for a while, then regret will set-in.
I'm a proponent of "do it right or not at all", or "do it right the first time". I'm totally aware that mistakes are made and you'll have to learn from them, but I'd hate to see you pour a lot of money into your 928 repaint and be disappointed later.
Looking at your pictures, I'm a bit confused about what they are painting. It looks like there is filler over the exhaust, the bumper beading, and a few other places where I would not expect it.
Leaving the antenna is an invitation for chipping around it; same with door lock surrounds, the hopefully masked-off bumper beading, etc. I had two cars in my life where parts were repainted that way, and in both cases the chipping occurred and looked increasingly ugly.
Lastly, I don't think you can paint the body and bumpers at the same time, as the bumpers would require some sort of softener in the paint. I'm not up-to-date on these requirements, but you should make sure you won't end-up with cracked paint on your bumpers shortly after the job was finished.
Leaving the door handles on will result in some rough texture of paint in the creases, and dirt will collect there easily. You may have other places where this will happen, e.g. behind the panel gaps (doors, hatch, hood). It'll be nice for a while, then regret will set-in.
I'm a proponent of "do it right or not at all", or "do it right the first time". I'm totally aware that mistakes are made and you'll have to learn from them, but I'd hate to see you pour a lot of money into your 928 repaint and be disappointed later.
#21
Rennlist Member
Interesting, Nicole. Thanks for sharing. I didn't know that. I was sure that the '89 GT that I painted the quarters and rear cover on had the metal trim around the glass. Do you know what year the change to plastic trim occurred?
#22
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I'm not sure when they switched from the alu to the plastic, but IIRC, my first 928 - an 88 S4 - still had the aluminum trim, and both 91 models I've owned had the plastic trim.
#23
Burning Brakes
The anodizing itself is not coming off. It is a clear coating thats dyed black or whatever colour you want it to be. Your pieces only need to be redyed, any anodizing shop should be able to do that really cheaply.
#25
Team Owner
SEM trim paint for the win.
You do need to remove the bumpers to get them painted properly they should be stripped with walnut media and then started with fresh base coating ,
there also needs to be the flex additive so the finish wont crack.
If you dont remove the old finish then any previous cracks will come through your new paint finish,
if the surface gets feathered instead of stripped the feathered edges will come through the new finish
You do need to remove the bumpers to get them painted properly they should be stripped with walnut media and then started with fresh base coating ,
there also needs to be the flex additive so the finish wont crack.
If you dont remove the old finish then any previous cracks will come through your new paint finish,
if the surface gets feathered instead of stripped the feathered edges will come through the new finish
#26
Drifting
Thread Starter
The bumpers were stripped. The rear in particular was a replacement in good physical shape but had been poorly repainted at least a couple of times.
#27
Team Owner
#30
Rennlist Member
Just Google SEM black satin trim paint. A can is normally $ 10-14 for a tall spray can. Prep surface with a scotch brite pad then clean using a tak cloth, 70% isopropl alcohol (does not evaporate as fast as 90% so you don't need as much) before spraying on a clean, dust free surface. Helps to prop trim on little blocks and spray around & under the edges for best results. T