I remember seeing a thread where someone made a new ground strap, or got one, from an electrical supply company. i need a new strap and im looking for better then stock options.

anyone ever replace the "wing nut" like hold down with anything better? im thinking of maybe a stud that mound the cable, and has the ability to mount other grounds to it.

 

and at 72 bucks for stock.... no

 

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...-length-2.html

Post #78. $11 from Waytek + $2 in shrinkwrap vs. $50+ for 928 612 009 13
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I really like Dr. Bob's recent idea of co-shrinkwrapping a Battery Tender pigtail onto the ground strap so there's a neatly routed permanent battery tender lead (or just a 12V source) there without having to remove the spare tire well contents.

RE: losing the wingnut, later cars use an M8 bolt instead. Less convenient but I use it to ground the sharkwoofer electronics.

 

that the thread! thanks. i have my sharkwoofer leads at the battery, but two grounds for the sat and radio up top for easy removal. for some reason the Sat box ground GOUNDS THE WHOLE CAR. no idea what that shiz is about. i took off the battery strap from the car and had a very strange look on my face i bet as the lights were still on. after i found that out i moved that wire up top so when i disconnect the strap it comes off too.

 

Just for grins, this is very inexpensive;

http://www.thehotrodcompany.com/shop...oduct_id=GND16

I bought the 928 intl. aftermarket for 30 bucks - keep the money flowing to our wonderful suppliers.

 

and i found a bosch battery for 108 bucks!

 

Rob - I too liked Dr Bob's "heat shrink it all" idea - I have both seperate today - but thats a nice idea - will re-do it next time I have the battery out. I have the Waytek ground strap - I also have dual small braided ground straps for the block to chassis grounds - also from Waytek.

You can install a battery switch at the rear ground point - then you will never need to take it off again - your additional grounds can be on the switched side and a battery charger port on the unswitched side - perfect configuration. I haven't unbolted the battery switch or strap since I put it in many years ago.

Alan

 

I use the battery tender semi-regularly on both cars, so both have pigtails out to the area under the tool tray. On the stroker I use my WB02 often enough that I modified its power cord with a battery tender pigtail connector so that I can get a solid 12.X volts to the LM1 rather than using the cigar lighter.

 

Get the one from 928 Intl for $30. Just got one today!

PS. I was able to open up the crimped end, pull out the braid, use a Dremmel tool to clean the inside and brain, then stick it back in and recrimp in a vise. Worked until I replace with a new one.

 

i have the battery tender cable hooked directly to the battery and have it coming out of a hole in the battery box (stock hole?) withe a grommet. it hangs down but not far.

right now im looking for the cable local, but no such luck so far.

 

Mine was full of corrosion.

 

Did this per bob as well, got the 16" double shrink wrapped with clear and the rest is history.

I actually have a spare 19" I ordered at the time unsure of lengths. If you want it, just pay shipping?

 

+1, and as I wrote in my very first introduction post "...Alan Moore: for all things electric/electronic, and I have - shamelessly - implemented several improvement project items as documented on his web-site."

When I made mine, I used 3mm thick aluminum with the following profile (turned out not to be 100% perfect, as I could only fit the battery switch within the space in a slightly tilted position - rather then fully straight):
Battery-cut-off-switch-bracket-20110608.pdf

A few pictures to illustrate it all, and the new external strap as I used I isolated with several layers of black electrical insulation tape (next time I will use heat-shrink too).


Works great, can really recommend it.

 

My 'BIG BLUE-83' was a no-start on Tues. Ground strap was almost too hot to touch!! The old one looked factory original! Got a new one at Pep Boys- 2ga wire 18" long for $6.95 OK, it's not 'stock" but the price Cherry Hill Porsche wants for one is NUTS!! (unless it's pure platinum)

 

Round 2AWG calbe tends to bind up on the battery box lid and also under the tool tray - flat really is a nicer option. I think tinned copper is a better choice than the bare copper stock version also (given the routine corrosion we have seen).

Don't know for sure that its a cause - but I suspect so - so I'd always vent the battery outside the box - easy to do.

Alan