Ground strap.... stock or make one?
11-10-2012, 01:03 AM
#31
Rennlist Member
That is the wrong battery for your car. Your car requires a group 49 for proper fit.
My 82 takes a 49. My 86.5 take a 48. Some stores will try to sell you the wrong one. The local Autozone chart is wrong, Sears is correct.
My 82 takes a 49. My 86.5 take a 48. Some stores will try to sell you the wrong one. The local Autozone chart is wrong, Sears is correct.
11-10-2012, 06:14 AM
#32
Nordschleife Master
I'd like to use clear adhesive shrink, is 3/4" diameter going to be too tight of a fit? Ancient math brain cells are telling me is ok, but ...
Brillman looks like its the same cable everybody is selling, but only $8 and $9.25 flat rate shipping for 2 to me.
Brillman looks like its the same cable everybody is selling, but only $8 and $9.25 flat rate shipping for 2 to me.
11-10-2012, 02:37 PM
#36
Racer
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08-06-2015, 01:23 PM
#40
Chronic Tool Dropper
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Lifetime Rennlist
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Jeff--
My car has a really small (less than 25mA) static drain. It can sit for a month and still start easily. But... I keep a "smart" charger/maintainer connected when it's sitting, since my one-week business jaunts have extended to over a month a few times. Plus it's easier on the battery to avoid the deeper discharge/recharge cycles that happen with a couple weeks of sitting.
The charger/maintainer senses battery terminal voltage, and turns charge current on only when the voltage drops below some particular level. Turns off when it reaches a higher target level. With even the very small static drain, the maintainer cycles at least 5x as much as with the battery isolated. It's a lot better with the new 'smarter' charger/maintainer than it was with the Schumacher 1.5's, but I still think the battery will last longer with fewer cycles. Might be splitting hairs here. A battery isolation switch makes it easier than unbolting and isolating the ground strap.
At some point I'll make the bracket for the isolation switch. Or I may install a high-current manual-option breaker in the passenger footwell, between the feeders from the jump post terminals and the CE panel 30 bus connections. I bought the breaker when I ordered the ground cables from Waytek, and it's sitting in a box around here somewhere. New garage cabinets are on the immediate horizon, so I'll be forced to go through all the boxes a I put things away. Anyway, the plan is to upgrade those mini-feeders from the jump post to the CE panel at the same time. All the parasitic drains I've found are connected via the CE panel. The only possible exception would be a failing fan final stages module; everything else from the battery is isolated by relays which need CE power to operate.
My car has a really small (less than 25mA) static drain. It can sit for a month and still start easily. But... I keep a "smart" charger/maintainer connected when it's sitting, since my one-week business jaunts have extended to over a month a few times. Plus it's easier on the battery to avoid the deeper discharge/recharge cycles that happen with a couple weeks of sitting.
The charger/maintainer senses battery terminal voltage, and turns charge current on only when the voltage drops below some particular level. Turns off when it reaches a higher target level. With even the very small static drain, the maintainer cycles at least 5x as much as with the battery isolated. It's a lot better with the new 'smarter' charger/maintainer than it was with the Schumacher 1.5's, but I still think the battery will last longer with fewer cycles. Might be splitting hairs here. A battery isolation switch makes it easier than unbolting and isolating the ground strap.
At some point I'll make the bracket for the isolation switch. Or I may install a high-current manual-option breaker in the passenger footwell, between the feeders from the jump post terminals and the CE panel 30 bus connections. I bought the breaker when I ordered the ground cables from Waytek, and it's sitting in a box around here somewhere. New garage cabinets are on the immediate horizon, so I'll be forced to go through all the boxes a I put things away. Anyway, the plan is to upgrade those mini-feeders from the jump post to the CE panel at the same time. All the parasitic drains I've found are connected via the CE panel. The only possible exception would be a failing fan final stages module; everything else from the battery is isolated by relays which need CE power to operate.
