RE; Upper arm ball joint
#1
RE; Upper arm ball joint
Hi Guys, i just replaced my front upper arm ball joint with a new kit from carl at 928 motor sports, my question is isnt the bolt suppose to be hard to move with your hand back and forth,if the parts are all new or it doesent matter. Thanks Ed.
#3
Agreed. Mine were quite stiff. It was a real bear (until I got a 20 ton shop press) to try and get all the parts together and get the cir-clip back in. If your is loose, I think there might be an issue.
Best of luck.
Best of luck.
#5
Upper ball joint
Which kit did you have...the one with the conical spring or the one with the double spring and strange washer that said '316'.....?
I recvd the one with the flat stacked spring and the washer...had a hell of a time gettin it down low enough to try to get the coiled spring clip down into the groove...ended up bending the washer some, kinda in the shape of the double flat spring....seemed odd.......
I recvd the one with the flat stacked spring and the washer...had a hell of a time gettin it down low enough to try to get the coiled spring clip down into the groove...ended up bending the washer some, kinda in the shape of the double flat spring....seemed odd.......
#7
RE; Upper arm ball joints
Hi KLVA, i got the same kit you did with wavy springs and washers with 316 numbers on it, i asked carl from motor sports he said to use those when i put the nut on to assembel it, how did you use the washers. please let me know. Thanks Ed.
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#8
928 MS ball joint kit
Hey Ed and Glen,
Well I got a little frustrated.......
I tried to use the '316' washer on top of the double flat spring...
That is what I inferred from the install sheet...see pic...
Then I took it out and was then able to get it together using the original large circlip.....
There would have been no way to get that 'spacer ring' into the compression...
Let me know what you think....the one that I did was not all that tight after
I did not use the washer/spacer
Well I got a little frustrated.......
I tried to use the '316' washer on top of the double flat spring...
That is what I inferred from the install sheet...see pic...
Then I took it out and was then able to get it together using the original large circlip.....
There would have been no way to get that 'spacer ring' into the compression...
Let me know what you think....the one that I did was not all that tight after
I did not use the washer/spacer
#9
I did mine with the spacer. Exactly as shown in KLVA's photo. It took me a while to figure out how to put this together. Ended up putting it into the 20 ton press with the appropriate sized sockets. It took much more force than I was comfortable with to get the whole mess down low enough to engage the clip. The first few times I thought I had it only to have it pop apart out of the press. The trick ended up being alignment. Had to futz with the parts and sockets to get everything perfectly in line then it worked, with lots of force. Line it up and don't be shy.
Best of luck.
Best of luck.
#11
I don't think it needed to be a 20 ton press exactly. I tried with my cheap C clamps, but the face of the clamp was not square with the moving end so it was impossible to get some good force on the joint. The press just offered a square method to push everything together. It did take quite a bit of force before I could see the groove for the circlip.
#12
RE: A arm ball joint bushing
hey klva, i called the people who made the kit talked to real nice guy who works their by the name travis, and he said that washer with 316 number must go on top of thewavy spring, put some grease on so it stays under the upper plate, and to compress i used a 2 leg baring puller i rent it from harbor freight, just make sure to a large washer through the bolt to hook baring puller legs and it work like a charm. now iam having problems putting the boot spring on top of the boot. P.S. dont worry if the bolt is loose as long as it doesnt move up and down you will be O.K. Thanks again. Ed.