F451

Hey guys,

Question: what color black is "more" correct for painting the crossmember?

Satin, semi-gloss, or gloss black?

I'm finally getting back on my stalled mm/pan gasket replacement project. The crossmember has some surface rust that I will be treating, and then I'll be painting it.

Won't be powder coating it, so no need to discuss that option.

Thanks,

Ed

Ps: I'm back in cosmoline hell!

F451

Would also be interested in hearing what type of paint to use. I was going to rattle can it with Rustoleum automotive paint (prep, prime, paint), but am reading conflicting info about the durability of Rustoleum vs more expensive paints.

I'm not looking for show quality results, I just want it to look decent and be fairly durable. I've had good luck painting my calipers and brake discs with rattle cans, so think I can get the crossmember looking pretty good.

Thanks.

soontobered84

I powder coated mine gloss black and it looks great as crossmembers go.

F451

Gloss black, cool, thanks.

I'm also looking into POR-15 vs a Rustoleum type paint. Sounds like it will be more durable.

linderpat

Ed - I'm thinking semi-gloss in rattle can. My cross member isn't glossy shiny (nor were my others). Also, I did strip and polish one, and it looked great - shiny aluminum.

Ducman82

POR15 is great stuff. i have used it for years. go semi gloss.

Fabio421

Factory finished for these types of things is usually satin. In the end, it's your car so do what you like. Or let your wife choose so she feels like she's a part of the process. It could pay off later.

xschop

Rust converter for steel parts is the way to go. It has phosphoric acid in the paint which converts FeO2 (rust) to iron-phosphate (black-oxide) and leaves a protective coating.

FBIII

does por 15 work on aluminum?

Hilton

I bead blasted off any corrosion, and then used epoxy primer followed by black gloss epoxy "rust proofing" paint.

I considered powder coating, but powder coating is IMO too easily compromised by chips allowing corrosion/water underneath the coating. Its fine for stuff like intakes where it won't get stone chips.

17prospective buyer

Rust converter will work. I wire brushed mine (didn't have my sandblaster at the time) and used rust converter on some deeper rust spots. F*ck powder coating... more trouble than it's worth. Any oils/greases will bubble up when they bake it. The only thing is that it's more environmentally friendly than spraying, and more durable, but i would question that last statement heavily.

Go with whatever finish you like... you don't even see the bloody thing, who cares?

dr bob

To get a good finish with anything north of satin requires a bit more prep. The cross member is not too tough in that regard with relatively few welds to dress. Another problem with gloss and even semi is that it shows crud and normal road film quickly, and is tough to get completely clean without streaks/spots/etc showing up after its dry. So my vote is for the original satin with as much prep as your time and budget will allow.

F451

Thanks for the input everyone.

BPG_Austin

My vote is for satin, I think more correct than a high gloss for undercarriage pieces. 17, I don't think your info here is accurate. With some things, such as magnesium, prep is important to avoid off-gassing. A properly prepped stamped steel part won't have any of these issues and is pretty strait forward to powdercoat. Any decent shop will off-gas a potentially oily part prior to coating. I know you've had some trouble, but be careful not to generalize how work is performed on all powdercoated parts. Countless car parts have been powdercoated all over the globe with no troubles. Just offering some perspective. Sorry for the thread hi-jack.

17prospective buyer

Maybe i was out of line saying that. However, it is a forum, and it is just my oppinion. I just think it's way more trouble than it's worth when with proper prep, a rattle can finish can turn out just as good. Just look at my crossmember, it turned out beautifully, it didn't even crack the paint when i banged it around putting it back in.