Recommendations - change in tank gas strainer or not?
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Recommendations - change in tank gas strainer or not? - UPDATED
See post #8 for update
I am in the process of replacing the gas tank straps and cover, filter, etc. It looks like the fuel filter may never have been replaced, or at least not recently - certainly the gas in collected from the intake side was filthy.
So my question - while I'm 'in there' should I also replace the in-tank strainer? It couldn't hurt provided I don't run into issue with removal and replacement. I have read in other posts of the metal collar in the plastic tank coming off.
Recommendations?
Here's the filter and gas - uck:
I am in the process of replacing the gas tank straps and cover, filter, etc. It looks like the fuel filter may never have been replaced, or at least not recently - certainly the gas in collected from the intake side was filthy.
So my question - while I'm 'in there' should I also replace the in-tank strainer? It couldn't hurt provided I don't run into issue with removal and replacement. I have read in other posts of the metal collar in the plastic tank coming off.
Recommendations?
Here's the filter and gas - uck:
Last edited by martinss; 12-12-2012 at 09:28 PM. Reason: Update
#2
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Having spun the threaded insert myself....I would suggest caution. If the tank is out, I would put some penetrating stuff on the inside, with the tank set so the filter is low, and the oil sits on the threads, and also put some on the outside area. After a soak, try to undo it very carefully! My in tank filter was visibly all torn up, and badly needed changing, but it was fully corroded onto the insert, and it spun. I was able to seal it up with PC11 epoxy, which never leaked in several years of use, until i was able to replace the whole tank. My local wrench advised fitting a new filter finger tight initially, and then only tighten just enough to stop it leaking....Some have used a high pressure water blast to clean the inside of the tank.
jp 83 Euro S AT 54k
jp 83 Euro S AT 54k
#3
I've not spun the inner collar on any tank that has a strainer. That is not saying it can't happen it's that I have never done so. Now tanks with the in-tank pump, yes I've spun a couple and it sucks.
Best to replace the seal that keeps the tank to strainer/pump now and find out than if you are on the road and have to replace it and take the chance of spinning it some place rather inconvenient.
Best to replace the seal that keeps the tank to strainer/pump now and find out than if you are on the road and have to replace it and take the chance of spinning it some place rather inconvenient.
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Ok, I will chime in on this since I do offer the strainer kit for the 044 pumps.
If there is not an in-tank pump, and you are not installing an 044 pump, leave it alone.
I have spun 2 inserts trying to remove the strainer. Both of them were not with the in-tank pump.
The first one I tried to fix with epoxy and it lasted about 6 months before it started to leak. That car now has a new gas tank.
The second one I spun, I had to use a channel lock pliers to hang onto the insert to remove the strainer. I had to pin the insert back inside the tank to install a new strainer and be able to properly tighten it. It's working so far, fingers crossed.
Since that happened, I now use the channel lock to grip the plastic against the knurled insert at the first attempt to take it out. I also use the channel lock again when I put the new one in. I apply Dow Corning 111 silicone (non hardening) to the threads and gasket to make sure everything works smooth when I tighten it back up. You could also use a little motor oil to accomplish the same.
If there is not an in-tank pump, and you are not installing an 044 pump, leave it alone.
I have spun 2 inserts trying to remove the strainer. Both of them were not with the in-tank pump.
The first one I tried to fix with epoxy and it lasted about 6 months before it started to leak. That car now has a new gas tank.
The second one I spun, I had to use a channel lock pliers to hang onto the insert to remove the strainer. I had to pin the insert back inside the tank to install a new strainer and be able to properly tighten it. It's working so far, fingers crossed.
Since that happened, I now use the channel lock to grip the plastic against the knurled insert at the first attempt to take it out. I also use the channel lock again when I put the new one in. I apply Dow Corning 111 silicone (non hardening) to the threads and gasket to make sure everything works smooth when I tighten it back up. You could also use a little motor oil to accomplish the same.
Last edited by Tim Murphy; 01-06-2013 at 10:02 PM.
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I have the out-of-tank pump, and after changing the fuel pump I went in after it, 25 years and 150k miles or more, the in-tank strainer looked brand new. I wouldn't worry about it unless you just want the piece of mind.
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To close out this question, here is an update:
I cleaned the tank as best I could from the outside. The strainer looked good. But having the tank sitting on the floor tempted me, so in the end I gave in.
To try and prevent the insert spinning I used a hose clamp to apply pressure on the neck of the tank around the insert, based on the channel lock idea described above by Tim Murphy. The filter turned out easily and the insert did not move. Once I had it safely out I did a bit more tank cleaning and put it back in.
At least I feel more confident that if I have to remove the filter with the tank still in the car it will likely come out without an issue - at least that is a justification for not leaving well enough alone...
I cleaned the tank as best I could from the outside. The strainer looked good. But having the tank sitting on the floor tempted me, so in the end I gave in.
To try and prevent the insert spinning I used a hose clamp to apply pressure on the neck of the tank around the insert, based on the channel lock idea described above by Tim Murphy. The filter turned out easily and the insert did not move. Once I had it safely out I did a bit more tank cleaning and put it back in.
At least I feel more confident that if I have to remove the filter with the tank still in the car it will likely come out without an issue - at least that is a justification for not leaving well enough alone...
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ecrouch01 (09-09-2023)
#9
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good idea on using the hose clamp
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^^^^Great idea!!!
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I really like the hose clamp! That is definitely an improvement over the channel lock pliers.
I will now include a hose clamp with every kit.
GREAT IDEA
I will now include a hose clamp with every kit.
GREAT IDEA
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ok. I am glad I saw this thread since it is going to apply to my project. My 84 Euro is not getting gas to the filter outlet side. I was told that it is probably the in tank strainer. Soooo... removing it sounds like a bad idea. What is the best way to go about fixing my issue? sorry to semi hijack your thread... but the two issues seem tied in.