I need some help! Clutch hydralics questions
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I need some help! Clutch hydralics questions
Ok guys., i have a sutation that happed after the race, The clutch pedal has been a little dicy. sometimes after the race, the pedal is parially depressed and then after pumping it up, it works wellll, no issues during the race. after it stits for a while, its like there is a leak or air in the lines and it gets soft again. at home , for street driving it doesn ever happen. however, recently, the pedal feels fine, but as soon as i shift near redline (not at 3-4 krpm, ) after the shift, the pedal doesnt come back to the top. after decelling, the pedal comes badk and it shifts normal. im wondering if during full throttle the lack of vacuum is creating some differential pressure that doesnt alllow the pedal to come back. I dont know how this is possible as the power steering vacuum is not connected to the brake master cylinder. so how does flooring the car, and high rpm (need both) effect how the pedal and the clutch react?????? im perplexed!
any ideas??
any ideas??
Last edited by mark kibort; 11-10-2012 at 03:29 PM.
#2
Race Director
are you losing fluid? Have you changed the infamous blue hose that is know to fail? When was the last time you bled it? I found it helps to get the front of the car really high when bleeding the clutch....
#3
Drifting
There are only three things worth replacing, and none of them are expensive: Slave $80, Master Seals $20, Blue Hose $10?
I would suggest the master seals are the most likely culprit, but no harm in replacing the slave as well. If the blue hose is leaking it should be pretty obvious (because eventually you'll have no brakes!)
I would suggest the master seals are the most likely culprit, but no harm in replacing the slave as well. If the blue hose is leaking it should be pretty obvious (because eventually you'll have no brakes!)
#4
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
There are only three things worth replacing, and none of them are expensive: Slave $80, Master Seals $20, Blue Hose $10?
I would suggest the master seals are the most likely culprit, but no harm in replacing the slave as well. If the blue hose is leaking it should be pretty obvious (because eventually you'll have no brakes!)
I would suggest the master seals are the most likely culprit, but no harm in replacing the slave as well. If the blue hose is leaking it should be pretty obvious (because eventually you'll have no brakes!)
I think i replaced the master on the '79 racer , as the fluid was leaking into the vacuum booster. I dont think it was that expensive.....
but why the pedal hight issue, atfter a near redline shift? high vaccum off throttle , pulls fuid from the master , but then you would think that the brakes might be softer for a cycle., and they are not. come to think of it , on the decel, the clutch pedal comes back, so maybe there is some requirement for vacuum to keep the clutch pedal up.
#5
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
There is an internal dam in the fluid reservoir which prevents a total fluid loss in the brakes or in the lcutch system affecting the other one. Thus forget vacuum related issues.
Leaking m/c or slave seals. It happens at the end of the straight (i think you siad that ) because that is the probably the longest period of time during a lap that you haven't used the clutch - after the change into 5th gear (or maybe still accelerating in 4th)
Leaking m/c or slave seals. It happens at the end of the straight (i think you siad that ) because that is the probably the longest period of time during a lap that you haven't used the clutch - after the change into 5th gear (or maybe still accelerating in 4th)
#6
Three Wheelin'
You probably need a MC but sometimes a problem may be your fluid being old and affected by exhaust heat. The older it gets, and once it has boiled, the worse it will be next time.
Is the line near your exhaust?
Have you flushed the fluid lately?
Is the line near your exhaust?
Have you flushed the fluid lately?
#7
Drifting
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#9
Nordschleife Master
Your post was completely full of jibberish this morning. Most of all the statement above.
The power steering doesn't have vacuum and isn't connected to the brakes or clutch at all.
Vacuum to the brakes will not cause a soft or not fully returning clutch pedal.
If I were you I would replace the guts of the MC and the blue hose and fully bleed the system replacing all the fluid to ensure fresh fluid.
Then see if the problem disappears.
Oh and don't take any more spelling, grammar, or sentance structure lessons from rpetty2 as it was hard enough to understand some of your posts before.
#10
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
with this car, (the new chassis) it has its original or the one it came with, master cylinder. sure that could be it.
There is an internal dam in the fluid reservoir which prevents a total fluid loss in the brakes or in the lcutch system affecting the other one. Thus forget vacuum related issues.
Leaking m/c or slave seals. It happens at the end of the straight (i think you siad that ) because that is the probably the longest period of time during a lap that you haven't used the clutch - after the change into 5th gear (or maybe still accelerating in 4th)
Leaking m/c or slave seals. It happens at the end of the straight (i think you siad that ) because that is the probably the longest period of time during a lap that you haven't used the clutch - after the change into 5th gear (or maybe still accelerating in 4th)
Mark,
Your post was completely full of jibberish this morning. Most of all the statement above.
The power steering doesn't have vacuum and isn't connected to the brakes or clutch at all.
Vacuum to the brakes will not cause a soft or not fully returning clutch pedal.
If I were you I would replace the guts of the MC and the blue hose and fully bleed the system replacing all the fluid to ensure fresh fluid.
Then see if the problem disappears.
Oh and don't take any more spelling, grammar, or sentance structure lessons from rpetty2 as it was hard enough to understand some of your posts before.
Your post was completely full of jibberish this morning. Most of all the statement above.
The power steering doesn't have vacuum and isn't connected to the brakes or clutch at all.
Vacuum to the brakes will not cause a soft or not fully returning clutch pedal.
If I were you I would replace the guts of the MC and the blue hose and fully bleed the system replacing all the fluid to ensure fresh fluid.
Then see if the problem disappears.
Oh and don't take any more spelling, grammar, or sentance structure lessons from rpetty2 as it was hard enough to understand some of your posts before.
anyway, if it wasnt vacuum related then why is it narrowed down to full throttle WOT, only. it seems when the system vacuum is removed, the clutch doesnt return. kind of strange. but, the only way that the MC can see any vacuum removed from the brake booster , is if the brake booster actually loses all its vacuum. remmber, i had a situation with a bad master where the vacuuum in the booster would drain the brake reservoir. but again , as was just mentioned , those systems are separarte in the MC.
I can replicate this, at any time. anytime i shift WOT to redline,or near redline, the clutch action is such that the pedal doesnt return. ANY other shifting situation, its fine. Its very strange.
maybe ill start by pushing the plunger back in the slave to get some of the air out. and thats another thing. in this car, when i do this, the piston is very easy to push back in, and the distance that it is pushed in is very short , compared to the slave on the Holbert car when i would do this. I think the slave is the same as the holbet car, but the MC is the one that came on the chassis.
#14
Team Owner
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Last edited by Mrmerlin; 10-23-2012 at 02:48 PM.
#15
Rennlist Member
FWIW, 944's are know to have a flexing firewall issue as the cars get older. Sometimes a crack, but usually seam separation on the firewall. Can cause pressure on the brake and clutch pedals to flex the firewall a bit, causing alignment of the shaft/pedal to deviate and the pedal temporarily sticks. Not sure if 928's also prone. Fix for many has been a brace bolted between the firewall (at one of the brake or clutch master bolts) to the shock tower.