Originally Posted by A.Embry

If the same can't be freely done in any other gear other than park and neutral, then this confirms a transmission failure. Simultaneously, it confirms that all other transaxle parts are functioning as they should. Output flange, differential, etc.

Originally Posted by MainePorsche

Well when in Drive and hand turning a rear wheel forward, the other one attempted to move, but did not.
So Boys, what do I do next ?

Originally Posted by Charley B

Greg just gave you four tests to run in the previous post.

Originally Posted by MainePorsche

^^^^^^
No, No.
I felt awkward after the fact when I posted what do I do next, only to see Greg had already given direction.

Edit/Add:
I Really am Thankful and Appreciate everybody's instruction, comment, and input.
Craig

Originally Posted by GregBBRD

This is a very strange failure. Pull the rubber plugs in the bell housing and see if the 6 bolts that hold the torque convertor to the rear flexplate are there and tight. You will need to turn the engine to get them to line up and thus see them.

By turning one wheel and having the other wheel turn, that pretty much means the axles are still attached to the transmission. Check the axle bolts, anyway.

The wheels turn in opposite directions only in Park and Neutral when hand turning with engine off. In Drive,2,3, and Reverse no contralateral movement. I don't have a torque wrench up to 340, but as the axles don't turn I don't thing this is it.

If on stands and running there is no movement that you can see in the differential section? Nothing moves?

Nothing at all moves at diff section when in P,N,D or R.

When the engine is off, and the car has been sitting, the plastic reservour on the side of the transmission should be extremely full. When you start the engine, you should see that reservour "suck down", if the oil pump in working in the transmission.

When engine started, it sucked right down. As I couldn't drive it to warm the transmission, I let it idle for 20 minutes. The level appeared to be a little low, so I topped it off. I have had no leaking when parked in my garage or at a parking spot out of house. I am careful to check these things when putting miles on.

You should also be able to "feel" the fluid "surging" through the rear oil lines, when the car is running.

This is a very strange failure. Pull the rubber plugs in the bell housing and see if the 6 bolts that hold the torque convertor to the rear flexplate are there and tight. You will need to turn the engine to get them to line up and thus see them.

This is the point I want to do, but am not clear on. Do you mean the large rubber stopper on the anterior face of the housing of the converter at 6 o'clock ? I would then rotate crankshaft to visualize, and check torque of the 3 pairs of bolts holding the drive plate to the converter ? There is only one rubber plug that I can see . Should I/do I have to drop the exhaust and the heat shields to do this, or can it be done from the 6 o'clock position with the above left in place ? I would think if there were an incremental loosening of the drive plate I would have noticed before it detached or got to the point where i am now.

Originally Posted by michael j wright

Is it possible that the linkage arm that ataches to the shift shaft comming out of the trans came loose. You would be able to see the linkage move but the shaft stay put. I would just disconect the cable and try to move the arm by hand and confirm that ALL was moving as it should.

Originally Posted by michael j wright

Is it possible that the linkage arm that ataches to the shift shaft comming out of the trans came loose. You would be able to see the linkage move but the shaft stay put. I would just disconect the cable and try to move the arm by hand and confirm that ALL was moving as it should.

Originally Posted by GregBBRD

The shaft that goes inside the transmission has a square flat on it and is secured with a bolt. There would have to be broken steel pieces for this to occur.