1978 , CIS, Manual - Huge blowby problem
#1
1978 , CIS, Manual - Huge blowby problem
Hi
I have multiple problems, so if I need to start several threads let me know.
I have a 1978 Porsche 928. (CIS fuel injection, manual gearbox) It has no interior, wiring or dash. (There is current to the starter, fuel pumps and ignition)
PROBLE ONE: I can only run the car for about 30 seconds – (it appears the fuel distribution piston is frozen in place – this is based on I took it a part)(both fuel pumps are functional and clean and the fuel filter in new) The problem is during the short running time I am blowing a ton of oil out of the oil breather tube to the air cleaner. This did not occur until recently. (one cylinder went from ~140psi to ~30psi – I assume a collapsed ring – based on the blowby – otherwise a bad valve)(It is also possible there is too much oil in the car) Question is what would account for blowing oil out, and does anyone have a fairly detailed procedure for pulling the passenger side cylinder head while in the car.
PROBLEM TWO: I am trying to find a number of small parts which is not going well. I need the rubber (Plastic?) tubes from the throttle bypass valve to the startup valve. I need the rubber mounts for the air chamber to the valley of the car (less than ~$7.00 each). I need the small fuel filters (8) for the fuel distributor.
QUESTION: How do you remove the injector sleeves without destroying them? I need to replace the rubber bushings.
I will not be able to start the car until my o-ring for the fuel distributor come in.(This merely means I can not test anything to report back on)
I have multiple problems, so if I need to start several threads let me know.
I have a 1978 Porsche 928. (CIS fuel injection, manual gearbox) It has no interior, wiring or dash. (There is current to the starter, fuel pumps and ignition)
PROBLE ONE: I can only run the car for about 30 seconds – (it appears the fuel distribution piston is frozen in place – this is based on I took it a part)(both fuel pumps are functional and clean and the fuel filter in new) The problem is during the short running time I am blowing a ton of oil out of the oil breather tube to the air cleaner. This did not occur until recently. (one cylinder went from ~140psi to ~30psi – I assume a collapsed ring – based on the blowby – otherwise a bad valve)(It is also possible there is too much oil in the car) Question is what would account for blowing oil out, and does anyone have a fairly detailed procedure for pulling the passenger side cylinder head while in the car.
PROBLEM TWO: I am trying to find a number of small parts which is not going well. I need the rubber (Plastic?) tubes from the throttle bypass valve to the startup valve. I need the rubber mounts for the air chamber to the valley of the car (less than ~$7.00 each). I need the small fuel filters (8) for the fuel distributor.
QUESTION: How do you remove the injector sleeves without destroying them? I need to replace the rubber bushings.
I will not be able to start the car until my o-ring for the fuel distributor come in.(This merely means I can not test anything to report back on)
#3
Rennlist Member
Can't you check the oil level with the dip stick?
I've heard of some pulling the right head while the engine was in the car. I couldn't imagine doing it myself.
I removed the fuel injector threaded nuts with vice grips, tapping with a small sledge. I didn't use a wrench on the injector.
Why not remove the injectors, power up the pump, press down on the air valve and do an injector flow test?
When my fuel distributor when, I got no flow at the injectors.
I've heard of some pulling the right head while the engine was in the car. I couldn't imagine doing it myself.
I removed the fuel injector threaded nuts with vice grips, tapping with a small sledge. I didn't use a wrench on the injector.
Why not remove the injectors, power up the pump, press down on the air valve and do an injector flow test?
When my fuel distributor when, I got no flow at the injectors.
#4
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It takes less time to pull the engine than it does to just pull the cam housings offto get to the heads.
If your fuel dist piston is frozen in place rather than just gummed up from old fuel varnish, get a diffrent fuel dist.
Yes its nice to have those 8 filters, just not nessasary.
If you have stuck rings, which it sounds like, you will need to do a complete rebuild. Might be cheaper to find a good used 4.7 The older engines tend to quite pricy as far as rings and bearings are concerned.
Good luck.
If your fuel dist piston is frozen in place rather than just gummed up from old fuel varnish, get a diffrent fuel dist.
Yes its nice to have those 8 filters, just not nessasary.
If you have stuck rings, which it sounds like, you will need to do a complete rebuild. Might be cheaper to find a good used 4.7 The older engines tend to quite pricy as far as rings and bearings are concerned.
Good luck.
#5
Gentlemen, I thank you for your input.
I am going to finish up the fuel distributor; restart the car and see if the blowby stablizes (yes, the dipstick showed over the top marker, which is why I wondered if it was being whipped by the crank and then the blowby pushed it out) (The car has set for ~10 years)
I am going to finish up the fuel distributor; restart the car and see if the blowby stablizes (yes, the dipstick showed over the top marker, which is why I wondered if it was being whipped by the crank and then the blowby pushed it out) (The car has set for ~10 years)
#7
You won't get crankcase blow by until the engine has run for a time, and usually at higher RPM's. This sounds like a total cluster**** as to the intake system.
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#9
Rennlist Member
I have pulled heads in the car on a 16 valve. As others have said, it can be done but it probably isn't practical *most* of the time. If you were just considering pulling the driver side head only then I would probably be tempted to do all of the work in the car as removing the cam carrier on that side is much more doable. Use an impact on the head bolts. If you don't, you can probably count on backing threads out of the block.
#10
Shameful Thread Killer
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
For Problem Two contact Roger at 928sRUS, he will be able to source the plastic bits if anyone can.
To remove the injectors, you need to fabricate a small forked puller tool that grasps the narrow notch in the brass injector and pulls it straight out. Then, once the brass injector is up out of the well, use a 13mm allen wrench in the steel plug to remove it from the intake, and replace the seal below.
To remove the injectors, you need to fabricate a small forked puller tool that grasps the narrow notch in the brass injector and pulls it straight out. Then, once the brass injector is up out of the well, use a 13mm allen wrench in the steel plug to remove it from the intake, and replace the seal below.
#11
Burning Brakes
To get the injectors out sometimes its easier to take out the whole intake tube out, its only two clamps and two bolts to get them out. Put it in a vice then you can get a good angle with the vice grips or a pipe wrench.
#12
Rennlist Member
I got my injectors out pretty easily - deep socket on the hex, sharp rap on the bar cracked them all loose. Rubber grommet things are a PITA to r&r, some lube helps a lot. Some have had a VERY bad time.
jp 83 Euro S AT 54k
jp 83 Euro S AT 54k