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Is the brightness about the same as the original bulbs?
Do you know the brand and part number of the LEDs you used?
Do the LEDs have a polarization or can any lead be mounted into either attaching hole?
Thanks
Brightness is about the same, but they are much quicker to light. One of the best upgrades I've done to the car.
For the PRND32 lamps I used Digi-Key part #LTH3MM12VFR4400. The gauge cluster LEDs are B8.5D-NWHP: Natural White from superbrightleds.com and you need at least 24 of them. Pod ***** were 74-NWHP3, also from Super Bright LEDs.
Your polarization assumption is correct; when you do the LEDs they will only light up when oriented the right way.
The information you provided has been very helpful about comparable LEDs. I just realized that you have a very helpful YouTube channel devoted to the 928. I will subscribe!
I think I will try the LEDs since you already provided proof of concept and have shown them working well.
I think I may modernize my gauge cluster a little and use Red LEDs for Park and Neutral.
Good catch, realized how the pic looked, as you noted, after I posted it. Looking downward it's lit. My angle wasn't good. I used the below item. Includes all you need, light and splices. https://woodypeck.com/product/928-au...-led-bulb-kit/
The replacement bulbs are .40 each for the dash gear indicators, but as others noted, it's a lot of work and soldering skill to replace. I went with plan b to light the center shift plate.
It does look cool to have the gear selector lit up, but if you move the shifter among N, D, 3, and 2 while driving, as I do, you would have to divert your eyes pretty far from the road to verify what gear you think you are in. I find that I use the pod indicators for that.
I know that not everyone drives like that and I may be extra paranoid in checking what gear I think I'm in due to an "incident" that happened when I was driving on fumes and was just trying to make it to a gas station. I kept switching between D and N to coast and save gas when I could. I went to switch to N, not realizing I was already there. I was going 45 mph when I shifted from N to R! The motor just stopped and the car coasted to a stop. I was sure my transmission was somewhere behind me, but when I turned the key, it started right up and slipped back into D as if nothing! Thank goodness this happened with a GM TH-400 in my 1970 Buick Electra 225!
Aaand…to add to the question…where is the contact point or module that sends the “signal” if you will, to the dash? Is it on the side of the tranny? At the shifter? I noticed that my lights light up if I quickly move through the ranges, but not if I stop where it needs to be…thinking something just needs a good cleaning…
it was asked above, but I didn’t see it answered…
Neutral safety/gear selector switch on the side of the transmission. It is likely out of adjustment.
Neutral safety/gear selector switch on driver's side rear of A28.0* automatic transmission.
As others noted be very careful with soldering as those pins are tiny.
we had a1986.5 S in that had only R working on dash, after. A little work we found they fitted wrong Mercedes’ switch on transmission as it only had four pin outs. Saved a whole load of cabling diagnosis. Correct item from FCPeuro and it’s good to go.
we can replace those lamps for you if it’s overwhelming and do a full refurbishment of nighttime illumination at same time, re-chroming your reflector section on cluster.
Note all the pin outs. One on a 928s we had in only had 4 hence only R worked
It’s all fun at G50 automotive.
Last edited by Lazer; 01-15-2022 at 03:26 PM.
Reason: wrong image
I've been contemplating a pod removal as none of my dash instrument lights work, the odometer gear is broken and the gas and temp guages are tempermental..... is it practical to just replace the entire cluster?.....
1987 auto
Brightness is about the same, but they are much quicker to light. One of the best upgrades I've done to the car.
For the PRND32 lamps I used Digi-Key part #LTH3MM12VFR4400. The gauge cluster LEDs are B8.5D-NWHP: Natural White from superbrightleds.com and you need at least 24 of them. Pod ***** were 74-NWHP3, also from Super Bright LEDs.
Your polarization assumption is correct; when you do the LEDs they will only light up when oriented the right way.
How did you check them and then how do you know which orientation is correct?
We apply voltage on the actually inlet connector point on the circuit board following factory schematics. You are correct they all have to be identical in orientation and correct polarity
01-11-2022, 11:47 PM
