Notices
928 Forum 1978-1995
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by: 928 Specialists

Adhesive for front ball cup insert replacement?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 09-24-2012, 10:20 AM
  #1  
SQLGuy
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
 
SQLGuy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Colorado Springs, CO USA
Posts: 1,307
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Default Adhesive for front ball cup insert replacement?

Hi folks,

A few months ago my car was in the shop for new TT bearings. While all that was out, my mechanic installed Roger's Delrin bushings in the shift coupler, and a new ball cup insert in the front piece. Last weekend the shifting got really bad. I finally got to look at it yesterday, and the problem is that the front insert has popped out of the end piece (i.e. the insert is still on the ball, but is no-longer in the cup).

Are there adhesives I can/should use when pulling the cup back down onto the insert, to keep it from doing this again?

Thanks,
Paul
Old 09-24-2012, 11:00 AM
  #2  
Dave928S
Rennlist Member
 
Dave928S's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Tasmania, Australia
Posts: 4,681
Received 64 Likes on 42 Posts
Default

It sounds like the cup mightn't have been properly pushed into the socket. The socket has a ridge which tends to stop the cup popping out, as can be seen in the photo. Glue isn't normally used, and may only act as a lubricant when it gets hot and cause it to pop off again.

Here's a pic of a ball cup pressed hard in .... it needs to be seated into the metal cup first and then pushed down onto the ball on top of the TT.
Attached Images  
Old 09-24-2012, 01:57 PM
  #3  
SQLGuy
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
 
SQLGuy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Colorado Springs, CO USA
Posts: 1,307
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Default

My mechanic says that, if the insert hadn't been fully in the cup, it would have popped out at the first shift, and not a couple of months later. The insert was new, the cup old.

Any other thoughts on why this would fail, besides the insert not being fully inserted into the cup? I'll take another look to see whether the ridge has been torn off the insert or something....

I've heard of people putting tie straps around the shaft, but I thought that was more to protect against the coupler coming off of the ball.
Old 09-24-2012, 03:51 PM
  #4  
Lizard928
Nordschleife Master
 
Lizard928's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Abbotsford B.C.
Posts: 9,600
Received 34 Likes on 25 Posts
Default

The insert is for the clutch release arm and not really for the shifter lever.

When replacing it is best to replace the ball cup as a fixed unit. Or install one of my short shifters to prevent this from happening.
Old 09-24-2012, 03:51 PM
  #5  
cfc928gt
Rennlist Member
 
cfc928gt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 813
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Paul,

The proper part is a one piece unit, 928.424.005.01, not two piece with a replaceable insert. You will probably need to strap it to keep it in place since I don't think glue would work over time plus if you have to go so far as to take it out to glue it you might as well replace it with the right part.
Old 09-24-2012, 08:12 PM
  #6  
Dave928S
Rennlist Member
 
Dave928S's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Tasmania, Australia
Posts: 4,681
Received 64 Likes on 42 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by cfc928gt
Paul,

The proper part is a one piece unit, 928.424.005.01, not two piece with a replaceable insert. You will probably need to strap it to keep it in place since I don't think glue would work over time plus if you have to go so far as to take it out to glue it you might as well replace it with the right part.
A bit like the rear coupler is sold as one part and separate bushings aren't shown in PET ..... but you can get the genuine replacement factory bushings to put in them (or delrin).

PET shows the front coupler it as an assembly, like it does the rear coupler ... but that doesn't mean you can't put a replacement plastic cup in it, if there's nothing wrong with the metal component.

The plastic cup is shown as a separate item on the clutch release arm, and not on the front shift rod .... but the parts are identical.
Old 09-24-2012, 08:27 PM
  #7  
Dave928S
Rennlist Member
 
Dave928S's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Tasmania, Australia
Posts: 4,681
Received 64 Likes on 42 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by SQLGuy
My mechanic says that, if the insert hadn't been fully in the cup, it would have popped out at the first shift, and not a couple of months later. The insert was new, the cup old.

Any other thoughts on why this would fail, besides the insert not being fully inserted into the cup? I'll take another look to see whether the ridge has been torn off the insert or something....

I've heard of people putting tie straps around the shaft, but I thought that was more to protect against the coupler coming off of the ball.
If the insert wasn't fully pushed fully home it still may have hung on to the ball for some time, and not necessarily come off at 'the first shift'.

Because of the location the plastic cup gets quite hot, and that's a factor in its deterioration, and can also be some of the reason they come off. Are all your heat shields in place?

Lots of owners replace the ball cup bushing and they're fine ... yours should be too. As a precaution use a new one and make sure it's pushed fully home, before pulling it down on the ball.

I don't see any logical reason to replace the complete front ball cup joint (or a complete rear coupler) if they are still in good condition, when replacement bushings are available.

Trending Topics

Old 09-24-2012, 08:54 PM
  #8  
Mrmerlin
Team Owner
 
Mrmerlin's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Philly PA
Posts: 28,232
Received 2,431 Likes on 1,365 Posts
Default

928 motorsport makes a metal cupped front shift coupler,
its a Bit..h to put on but it will last the life or the car
Old 09-24-2012, 09:11 PM
  #9  
SQLGuy
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
 
SQLGuy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Colorado Springs, CO USA
Posts: 1,307
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Default

Hi Dave,

Yes, the heat shields are all in place and in good shape. From what I remember, the insert itself looks OK. I may look into one of the metal ones, though, if I'm going to have tear apart as much as I think I'm going to have to to get things set straight.

Cheers,
Paul
Old 09-24-2012, 09:42 PM
  #10  
AirtekHVAC
Rennlist Member
 
AirtekHVAC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: China Grove, NC
Posts: 3,563
Received 298 Likes on 181 Posts
Default

Colin, is your shifter the one Jim is installing on U-Tube?

NM...I answered my own question by re-watching it...also noticed you replied to my question on the clip...lol..
Old 09-24-2012, 11:49 PM
  #11  
Dave928S
Rennlist Member
 
Dave928S's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Tasmania, Australia
Posts: 4,681
Received 64 Likes on 42 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by SQLGuy
Hi Dave,

Yes, the heat shields are all in place and in good shape. From what I remember, the insert itself looks OK. I may look into one of the metal ones, though, if I'm going to have tear apart as much as I think I'm going to have to to get things set straight.

Cheers,
Paul
Wouldn't hurt to do that to be certain that you won't have a repetition of the issue, as they are a PITA to get at; or go for Colins setup which can be done from the top and eliminates that front joint.

It really is a matter of opinion and individual choice.
Old 09-25-2012, 12:02 PM
  #12  
SQLGuy
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
 
SQLGuy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Colorado Springs, CO USA
Posts: 1,307
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Default

The only thing that worries me about Colin's setup is that Porsche went to such pains to keep the shift linkage isolated from the body. I'd like to understand better why they thought that was important before undoing it.
Old 09-25-2012, 12:05 PM
  #13  
WallyP

Rennlist Member
Rennlist Site Sponsor

 
WallyP's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Acworth, GA
Posts: 6,469
Likes: 0
Received 11 Likes on 11 Posts
Default

Perhaps they didn't want the movement of the power train relative to the body to put pressure on the transmission shift mechanisms...
Old 09-25-2012, 12:16 PM
  #14  
depami
Rennlist Member
 
depami's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Cleveland, MN
Posts: 2,814
Received 237 Likes on 127 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by WallyP
Perhaps they didn't want the movement of the power train relative to the body to put pressure on the transmission shift mechanisms...
Or maybe it was simply an assembly issue. Keep all linkage on power train/running gear and just lower body onto it?
Old 09-25-2012, 01:17 PM
  #15  
Lizard928
Nordschleife Master
 
Lizard928's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Abbotsford B.C.
Posts: 9,600
Received 34 Likes on 25 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by depami
Or maybe it was simply an assembly issue. Keep all linkage on power train/running gear and just lower body onto it?
Ding ding ding, we have a winner.

It made assembly easier. If you have good mounts, and good delrin bushings in the back you will have no additional vibration or noise from my shifter design.



Quick Reply: Adhesive for front ball cup insert replacement?



All times are GMT -3. The time now is 03:11 AM.