schwuller

long-time lurker here. this question is about 'refreshing' a 928 (or any older car, really) after purchase, so that new owners like myself are starting from a known point of reliability, AND so that we are experiencing the car with a driving feel similar to what the original owners enjoyed.

i'm about to replace my range rover with a 928 32v with a manual. i don't need a huge suv anymore and i've always wanted a 928; even when i had a 911 and i was in for service i was always leering at any 928 that was in the service bay. i will buy the best one i can afford, and it's something i'm buying to use daily. i do most of my own car work, and i enjoy it. before cash exchanges hands i'll have the car gone over by a mechanic knowlegable in 928's specifically (finding that mechanic in So Cal will be the topic of another thread).

tampa 928 said he replaces these items automatically after a 928 purchase:
"All ignition parts (which exact parts does this include on a 32v 928?)
All timing belt related parts (parts list?)
Intake including vacuum and fuel lines
Shocks
Filters
Motor Mounts and oil pan gaskets"

in addition to whichever obviously broken or worn parts a given car may need replacing, what about replacing all bushes in the suspension, and the springs (heavy car with ~100k miles must mean the springs are getting tired?). how about the steering rack? when doing the timing belt, doesn't it make sense to automatically do water pump and thermostat plus all coolant hoses (assuming they are not very very new looking)? the serpentine belt, wiper blades, coolant flush, spark plugs, diff lube and transmission fluid change get done automatically.

what am i missing?

the range rover has a reputation for being one of the least reliable vehicles made recently. however, i found it to be supremely reliable with the caveat that all maintenance was up to date. i've driven them across canada in winter and from california down to belize without incident and in comfort, in all weather. i'm convinced the 928 is going to give me a very similar experience.

updated list (ongoing):
under the hood:
Filters
high pressure power steering hose (fires are for the fireplace!)
All timing belt related parts (parts list coming)
water pump/thermostat/G-05 coolant
fuel lines (this is will be a new job for me as i've never done this on any vehicle, but have done air lines on rovers)
all ignition parts (parts list coming)
Intake refresh including vacuum lines (what does that entail exactly, just gasket and lines?)
Motor Mounts
oil pan gaskets

suspension and trans:
Wheel bearings
Tie rod ends
Rebuilt front upper and lower arms (upper includes ball jt)
Delrin rack bushings (absolutely wonderful!)
Lower ball joints
New bushes in upper rear arms
Lower ball joints
Shocks
diff oil

SeanR

Fuel lines, timing belt/water pump if not done so, first.

Welcome to Rennlist and post some pics of the new ride.

DJF1

I had the same thinking process when I bought my 928 which i use as a daily driver.

What you are missing is for sure the fuel lines and the intake refresh.

I would add due to my recent experience the high pressure power steering hose.

Finally yes it makes sense to do belts/water pump etc while you are in there..

Good luck and welcome!

AO

The only thing I would add to that list would be to change out the coolant. If you do a TB and WP, you'll do this anyway, but so many people put the wrong stuff in. You want the G-05 coolant. Tough to find sometimes, but worth it in my opinion if you're going to keep the car for a while.

Tom in Austin

Certainly tend to items for safety (fuel lines) and to address 928-specific weaknesses (flex-plate tension release, TB/WP).

If I had it to do all over again, I would completely refresh the suspension & steering early on. The personality of the car is fully revealed when all of that is working as intended. Susp & steering are fairly easy to do and the cost to just replace everything isn't really that much once you have it all apart.

Good luck and post some pics when you get your car.

schwuller

this is what i suspected. i had at the same time a range rover with ~30k miles and one with over 100k miles, vehicles manufactured within one year of each other and both maintained well but both on original shocks, bushes and airsprings (at that time). the driving difference was astronomical. one was TIGHT and fresh and pointy (as much as a rangie can be anyway), the other one was a bit wallowy and imprecise and floaty with much looser steering that required constant correction. totally different driving experience. one was like driving a european truck and the other like driving a 1984 cadillac sedan de ville...that needed shocks.

so, i'm assuming the following:
shocks
springs
polyurethane bushes
steering rack
possibly tires and good 4wheel alignment

Tom in Austin

Here's what you can get parts to do for a 928 suspension ...

Shocks and springs
Wheel bearings
Tie rod ends (only thing you can fix on a rack is leaking fluid)
Delrin rack bushings (absolutely wonderful!)
Rebuilt front upper and lower arms (upper includes ball jt)
Lower ball joints
New bushes in upper rear arms
Some bushes in lower rear arms (unfortunately, the really important ones - at the crossmember - are NLA)
If really OCD, you can also get strut tops. Not too bad in back but quite pricey in front.

BTW, my comments just reflect experience with a 130k mile car from New Jersey with lots of deteriorated rubber underneath. Other 928s may be far better off than mine was and not benefit from all this stuff.

schwuller

much appreciated. range rovers eat tie rod ends, and the first time i had mine done i was shocked at the difference it made. the car wandered at high speeds before, and after it was so much tighter feeling through the steering wheel.

James Bailey

No need for a thread "(finding that mechanic in So Cal will be the topic of another thread)., contact Greg Brown @ Precision Motorwerks 714-879-9072. His name pops up here often and he KNOWS 928s, builds some of the best.
There are very few good mechanics out there and few who know about the 928 which is why many here do their own work. I have used Greg for nearly 20 Years when I need help or do not wish to do it myself.

Landseer

Reliability the goal?

Do a detailed electrical circuit inspection and review.
Include remove / clean fusebox. New fuses and about 10 of the relays.
Look for any wires in power distribution plugs leaving CE panel that have damage.
Clean grounds. Clean 14 pin connector.
Replace battery groundstrap.

Refresh shifter linkage. New blue hose, maybe new clutch master, slave and rubber line that connects them.

If S-car, clean and reseal brake calipers. New rotors, pads, front bearings and seals.
New rack boots and rack mount rubbers, inners/outers, uppers (if S)/lowers.
New lower steering ujoint / knuckle.

New MM and OPG. Replace alternator preemptively with Bosch rebuilt ( if not already fairly new ). While in there, I'd probably drop the clutch set, whether single or double, and clean and lube the appropriate parts after inspection.


All belts. All hoses. Check condition of front harness where it connects to oil pres switch and alternator, also and especially, where it routes to the antilock pump. Look for bad insulation.

Disassemble and clean the two door switch pins and hatch switch pin.

Rebuild MAF and computers premptively.

New oxygen sensor. New CPS and Temp II. Hall sensors if S4 or later. Boot rubber, throttle body rubber and MAF orings.

New fuel pump preemptively, (eliminate in tank pump premptively if it has one) , tank strainer, rubber hose linking tank and pump and fuel filter.

Polyurethane bushes for a arms seems unnecessary considering how tight these cars are, same in x member. Better to absorb the shock than transmit it to the frame as impact.

In rear of car, new axle boots, but first flush extensively and repack with fresh grease.

Maybe new caps, ign rotors and wires and plugs. Maybe. At least clean the electrodes inside the caps. Premptively clean the contacts at the coil.

edit-- engine bay fuel lines are a must. If power steering assist system is leaking replace the low pressure feed hose, others if needed, buy new reservoir (uncleanable filter inside), and $20 rebuild kit for pump itself.

Absolutely do a timing belt, water pump, inspect and replace worn timing gears, oil pump gear, crank gear. I like to rebuild old tensioner. Use water pump recommended by Roger. In fact, get Roger at 928s R Us on speed dial, and 928s International too.

Pay close attention to advice from Mr. Merlin and Porken. Find Dwayne's Garage for many tutorials.

curtisr

The first thing to do after buying a 928? Hmm, get a line of credit at the bank?! Show it to your friends? Tell your significant other???!!!

Really: enjoy it!

WallyP

Establish a priority list, starting with safety items, then going to fixing what is broken/worn. That will require enough time, effort and cash to sate most new owners. Try hard to resist the "boy racer", "killer sound" and "doll-up" items...

schwuller

WallyP! come on. you're talking to a guy who negotiated with the dealer to get the chromed wheels OFF the 911 and the factory alloys put back on before i'd buy it lol. and i've never changed a car's sound system.

Landseer: excellent road map, that i will follow.

i appreciate all of these comments.

928porschemangreg

I count about $6,000 on parts in your original post. The refresh is sometimes more for feel, and looks. Reliability is what Landseer mentions, and Yes, PS Hose, Fuel lines for safety. Secure the LONG TERM protection first, that is of course TB/WP, leaks, Fuel lines. The best thing I did for my car was new shocks. It adjusted the ride height back up so things wont get ripped out underneath anymore, rides better and stops the jarring to the rest of the car. I replaced the TB/WP but it didn't need it. I replaced the tranny fuid but it didn't need it. The new coating on the intake can wait.

Mrmerlin

Welcome to the board, its a great resource.
Please add your location and it will be easier to assist you.
First thing to do IMHO is read the FAQ at the top of the page.
Once that is done you have a better understanding of the nuances of ownership.

There are some great suggestions already placed.

I would forgo the suspension bushing upgrades till last,
BUT if the shocks are giving a bouncy ride then Roger has new Bilstiens that will work well with the original springs.
The other wear items are the rack bushings and the front inner and outer tie rods,
of course check for bearing play and adjust the fronts to spec with the washer being able to slide.